Bambikiller240

take a gander at the pilot bushing.

more specifically: The sky is blue because the sun's rays hit the Earth's atmosphere, where the light is scattered by nitrogen and oxygen molecules in the air. The blue wavelength of this light is affected more than the red and green wavelengths, causing the surrounding air to appear blue. At sunset, the sun's light passes farther through the atmosphere, deflecting and decreasing the blue in the air. Scattering by dust particles and pollution in the air causes the sunset to appear red. For more info, see: http://web.ask.com/web?q=Why+is+the+sky+Blue%3F&qsrc=0&o=0

NO! (ten charectors)

Enjoy the ride while you can. Snow season is just around the corner. Just Kidding! I'm glad you got a good one.

Isn't this similar to Rod and Main bearings in contact with Crankshaft and Main Bearing Journals in the Block?

, I always hated it when I was in school.

Remove lockwasher and nut that connects the Operating Rods to the output shaft of the motor, lift and rotate the connector piece 180 degrees and reinstall it on the output shaft. Reinstall the lockwasher and nut. Tighten. Once you've removed the wiper motor and mechanicals once, it's not hard at all. FOR ME, I wouldn't even bother trying to do it with the wiper motor installed. But thats just me. FWIW, I rebuilt the wiper system (except for the motor) last summer. Made a huge difference in function

I've seen those Cold/Heat soldering pencils. They seem like a good idea for soldering on printed circuit boards, however, I have my doubts about their ability to heat the larger volume of metal (in things other than printed circuit boards) to a high enough tempurature to make a good solder joint. Let us know how it turns out. My original connectors have lasted for 35 years. At this point in my life, I know I won't be around for another 35, so........... geez I'm getting old!

YES, In the USA it was added when customers complained of a loud clunk noise.

Ah, the right part for the job!

I agree with abas. $75 is a significant premium IMO, but then again there are "originality freaks" out there who willl pay too much for almost anything. I see those people on eBay quite often.

Actually, "brassiere" is French.

The connectors for the 71, 72, and 73 cars that I've owned look very similar to a female spade connector. They slide over the top of the "nubbs" on the sender unit. I'm going to try to find something that will work. If I can't find anything I will try modifying the old sender by soldering on wires and my own connectors (just toi make sure it works before I go and ruin the new sender) This will be an absolute last resort as I don't want to alter my car's wiring from stock

nevermind I misread the post I was replying to.

I suspect that they would, but I'm no expert. Wats usually go for big bucks in the USA. These are located in Tokyo and shipping is going to cost $300 to the USA. Watch the bids fly in the last 12 hours.

The one made by V8-240Z doesn't use rubber from what I see, the other one uses an Engine mount that has been cut up on a band-saw thus using the rubber already bonded to the metal. If I was making one, I'd just start with clean metal and clean rubber and try using weatherstrip adhesive

Gary: I've already provided a link to Daves webpage with pictures of the bracket that he sells. See post #6 on this page

Maybe he ran out of answers. Anyone else want to have a KRACK at the questions? I answered a couple, I'm sure the rest of you can answer some of them.

Bolt pattern is the same too. (114.3 X 4) I have no clue about offset or backspacing on a 510

Since he's talking about "The magnet had very little sludge on it...." I'm not aware of a magnet on the 280Z auto trans, but I could be wrong. EDITTED. Guess I'm blind. :stupid:

Here's another option: http://63.230.175.50:8884/Files/Datsun/LSD-Brace/Diff-Mount.htm

Check the voltage at each end of the ballast resistor (BR). Put the black lead of your volt meter (VM) to a solid ground on the chassis, and put the red lead on one end of the Ballast. Write down the reading you get, then move the red lead to the other end of the BR (while keeping the black lead of the VM grounded) and write down the reading you get there. The higher reading is the input voltage TO the BR, the lower reading is the output voltage FROM the BR

Dave: Are you still making and selling them?

Well, they have a choice: Take the help I'm offering using their tools, or change their own tire while I go have a beer and laugh at them for being so damn lame as to turn down help. It's no skin off my A$$.

intersting bit of info, but I'm not sure it has anything to do with the subject of this thread.