Bambikiller240

I think you just saved yourself a TON of money, and unimaginable amounts of grief.

I haven't seen it either. Do you have a link, Bill? Where did you hear about this?

2+2 is not even close to as popular as the 2 seater. Your 2+2 has the same engine as the 2 seater. You can get the same horsepower out of it. However, the chassis on your 2+2 will ALWAYS weigh more than a 2 seater chassis, thus with comparable mods & driver skill, a 2 seater will ALWAYS wax your 2+2. Bet that wasn't what you wanted to hear, but it is reality.

Could also be a vacuum leak in the hoses leading to the master vac. If you end up needing a master vac, there are rebuilt ones available.

can't get link to work

You don't install new floorpans "over" rusted ones. Old ones are REMOVED, and new ones are welded into the empty spot. The cost of the floorpans in about 1/3 the cost of paying someone to weld them in properly. Why is he installing mew metal over rusty metal? Doesn't make sense to me. Chicken wire? to protect a radiator? from what? Chickens? Something fishy here IMO New replacement fenders are available. $160 - 250 depending where you buy, and quality. (plus shipping) Radiators vary in quality, like many parts. $130 will buy a radiator, but IMO it won't be a high quality one that will last a long time. WARNING #1: Inspect this or ANY car in DAYLIGHT, not at night. Darkness hides many things that you should be looking for. WARNING #2 Take someone with you or have it inspected by someone who really KNOWS Z's, not just someone who "had an old beater Z" (unless that is what you want to buy) PS I don't know your neighbor, but if he turned a "beater" into a nice Z, that's one thing. If he bought and drove a "beater" that is quite something else. WARNING #3 When buying a car, you need to understand the roles played by the buyer and seller. SELLER's job is to encourage the BUYER to purchase what is being sold. BUYER's job is understand what he is buying (condition, condition, condition) and only pay what it is realistcally worth. If he had anyone interested in buying this car at $2850, he wouldn't be offering to lower the price by $800. INSPECT COMPLETELY AND CAREFULLY. By your initial statement, this car is a project car 90% completed, and you don't know what the 10% remaining is. You need to find out and understand what is entailed in all that. It would be most beneficial for you to have someone with you that can tell you honestly what is involved. The seller MAY be honest, BUT his interests are at odds with your interests. This should be looked at as a business transaction because that is what it is. A gallon of paint was dumped on it. What is that paint hiding? What is the quality of that paint job? (or lack of quality, as the case may be) By the Way, as far as his statement "Yeah, that's 800 bucks you could spend on a body kit. It'd be really cool to see you do something like that to this car." I am sure it would be cool, especially if it isn't his money spent on doing it. As for your desire to "I would probably end up wanting to modify it in some interesting, unique way, ya know, outmatching all of the little civics and 'tegs in my neighborhood." Be advised that a body kit isn't going to make this car outperform (not sure what you mean by "outmatching") a Civic or Integra. It is another opportunity to repaint the car (more $$$, unless you like multi-colored / primered cars) If you want to outperform these newer cars, it can be done (several ways) but be prepared to spend a significant amount of money to do so. Please understand that I'm not saying you shouldn't buy it. That is YOUR decision, but you should make that decision after you have all the facts about this or any car. Arm yourself with knowledge (yours or someone who is knowledgable and impartial. If you can't find a Z club member, find a reliable mechanic and pay to have him inspect it for you. It will cost a few bucks, but IMO it's better than buying blind....but it's your money. Just my $.02 cents (that's a joke guys!)

Isn't hurricane season just around the corner (again)?

Necessary? No. There are a lot of Z's without smog pumps. What year is your car? Do you think your government won't require your car to pass smog checks in the future? You may want to keep anything you remove in case you are later required to have it installed. You do live in CA afterall.

I can tell you one thing. If he values it at a soft $2850, it has not been "restored".

But in that case the comparion wouldn't be worth a damn! Trust me, I know about toys. I have 1/2 a garage full.

The plastic covers also break when people slide their arse on top of and over them when getting in and out of the seat. It's especially bad if you have a 72 seat bottom that has stretched out strap supports causing you to sit low in the car. Aluminum covers would suffer much worse than steel in this sort of situation, IMO FWIW, I've never seen them in any color other than black in any 240 or 260Z I have seen.

If they were all pedal cars, it would matter.

I'd be interested in a pair for a 72 240Z. I agree that aluminum may be eaier to work with, but steel wuld be more durable IMO As long as the grain is similar I'd be happy. If I wanted a "perfect" match, I'd buy OEM plastic. (and pay up the kazoo.)

Should be easy to make one out of hardware store steel stock.

Yes. Whether you use the S12-8 (for solid rotors) or S12-W (for vented rotors) calipers, the backing plates (dust shields) need to be cut to allow the 4 piston calipers to fit.

I really don't know if that would be a problem. To be honest, I only added #2 because eveytime I suggest the Pertronix, someone else jumps in and suggests getting a junker OEM electronic distributor & module. I'm quite happy with suggestion #1, myself. 4 years and counting, though I haven't driven the car much in the last year.

My understanding of the reason for the change to the "Late" version (and David's mount has the same features) was to better isolate drivetrain vibrations from the chassis. The horizontal bushings and bolts, in addition to the standard central mount that bolts onto the crossmember are what acheive this isolation.

Rob, you are talking about parts for a 280Z, right? Not 240Z parts.

I don't suppose any one else has another one like that (like the one David needs)? I'd like to upgrade my car to that variety of mount. If anyone does, please send me a PM. Thanks.

Not all 72 Z's have the mount with the "2 horizontal bolts/nuts holding mount". My early mfg 72 has the one like shown in my pic "Early Rear Engine (Trans) Mount). The early mfg 73 I used to own had the one like shown in my pic "Late Rear Engine (Trans) Mount". That is why I'm thinking the one David has is an "in between" version since it incorporates design elements of both versions though using the early chassis brackets to mount.

I think it's the one in his signiture line.

One hole in the "sleeve" should have threads. The two pieces are secured with a tapered head phillips screw (#118) and a "external star" lock washer (#117).

These are pictures of the console. The Fuse panel cover has tabs with holes in them, that slip over the "posts" on the console to provide a hinge function.

I wish that I could help you with this issue, but I cannot. However, I can help you for the future. I would recommend dumping the points and doing one of two things. 1. If you want to keep the existing distributor, get a Pertronix Ignitor Ignition to install inside that distributor. No more points, no dwell, nothing. Just replace dist cap and rotor (as or when needed), set the timing and drive. http://www.pertronix.com/ignition_products/ignitor.htm 2. Replace the distributor with one of the later Nissan electronic distributors. Again, no more points and dwell to muck about with.

Interesting picture. Looks like it could be a hybrid, perhaps an interim version. I haven't seen one like that before. What is wrong with it that it needs to be replaced?