Bambikiller240

David: I don't have any spare transmission mounts, but there are two different varieties out there for 240Z's. The change between types ocurred in the 72 model year. Which type do you need? The brackets on the chassis determine which you will need.

You'll get a lot of opinions, and most probably won't match this one, but I don't like the looks of white gauges in a S30. I'll go with brighter bulbs, maybe even LED's if Will and Dave come up with something good.(they were working on something I think, but haven't heard much about it in the last couple of months) In the mean time, I can live with the stock set up, with the brightness turned all the way up.

....and hope that nothing on your door, or the latch mechanism breaks from having to abuse the car just to be able to use a seal that doesn't fit properly. If the door doesn't close properly, the seal doesn't fit, no matter how easily it went onto the car. The only way to go is OEM seals all the way.

No worries Bruce. When I was composing my first post, I initially wrote something similar, then remembered it was the clutch master that I had seen leaking fluid all over the inside of the firewall on one of my Z's owned in the 70's.

I'm positive they are horns now. Look at this picture You can see (on the most forward one) that the trumpet is red and pointing down toward the ground. Attachement is same pic but with an arrow added pointing to the trumpet.

Unless your car is such an early Z that the cigar lighter is mounted on the console, that is where the cigar lighter would be. Without seeing the switch you have I'd say it's likely to be something added by a previous owner. = zero value. What does the switch operate? Body and Paint work varies with the location and quality you expect. You could pay as little as $2000, or as much as $7000 or more. Bondo wear? Err, no; but it can trap moisture and promote rust if not properly applied, and if used too extensively can cause other problems. Rockers aren't too difficult to replace ( rocker panels aren't real expensive, but the labor to install can be) by a competant body mad, but the rust that ruins them can also ruin the metal around them as well, which means more $$ to repair. Problems that might be underneath? More rust.

From reading the descriptions that he posted on these auctions it was clear that he's a flake of the highest degree. Nothing he does should surprise anyone.

You'll need to explain what indent you are referring to, and provide a picture of the switch, etc. Many previous owners added switches in different places. Those would be worth nothing. In order for it to be "rare" it would have to be a factory option or something like that. A picture is what is needed to confirm what you have. As for stock radios, lap belts, and seats, there is a market for them, but as to value, it's like most things; the condition of the item makes all the difference in the world. A "crappy" seat probably isn't worth much, but a stock radio in good (fully functioning) condition w/ the original face plate could be worth decent money on eBay. Same for lap belts, stains, fading, wear on the webbing, scratches, peeling chrome, or other damage can kill the value of the belts.

Brake fluid shouldn't be able to get to the firewall due the vac booster being between the BMC and the firewall. Of course, if the BMC leaks enough to fill the booster 1/2 full. then fluid could get to the firewall.

Hi Rob: Mr. Camo suggested horns first in the thread, and I seem to recall seeing something similar, somewhere but I can't remember where. So far I've looked through 8 pages of horn stuff on JC Whitney's website and didn't see anything similar, but I'll look some more later.

I can't think of a reason for even one, in that location. Musical Horns was my thought, but I think we're still looking for a reasonable possible answer

Yes, there were ( or could be) switches installed there in JDM Z cars. Driving lights IIRC, or was it maybe the side parking lights that were required in Japan? I dunno, can't remember. Alan or someone else will remember better than I.

Sounds like you are low on brake fluid for some reason. Probably a leak somewhere. Could be a M/C, Caliper, Rear Wheel Cylinder, brake hose, almost anything. Fill the Master cylinder with fluid, pump the brake pedal for a while and then look under the car and at each component of the brake system searching for puddles, wet spots, etc. to help narrow down the location of any leak(s).

Common to all 240Z's. MikeW (and someone else) made a bracket to mount the choke lever assembly to the trans tunnel instead of butchering the console. Looks normal from the driver seat..

As usual you are correct Rick. Subject has been beaten to death a number of times. It's not worth bothering with anymore either. The people who are correct, know it, and the ones who are wrong will never figure it out. Everyone has their own opinion and at the end of the day none of the opinions matter to anyone but the owner of said opinion.

........or any one for that matter. The best security is the security only the owner knows about.

Well, go for it. Worst case scenario you have to drop the trans and enlarge the hole. Just remember to install the shifter (and shift into each gear) as soon as you can to see if there are fitment issues before you install the driveshaft and console, etc. BTW, the late 240, 260 and 280 Z's had the larger hole for the "B" 4-speed shifter (larger than the early 240Z that is). To me it doesn't make sense that you'd get by without enlarging the hole when using a later transmission, but it costs you nothing but time to try to avoid doing it. Good Luck and let us know how you make out.

EXCELLENT ANSWER ! ! I agree.

...... and major $$$$$$$$$$$

have you looked in a shop manual?

If your compression is that low, why are you worring about oil and such? It's time to tear that engine apart and rebuild it. Any compression below about 140 lbs/sq indicates worn piston rings. Compression is typically between 180 (factory spec) and 150.

I bought a small and cheap seal puller tool at my local parts store. Worked great.

Leave the carbon alone too. It's abrasive. It's probably not doing anything but raising the compression slightly in the cylinders. JMO

Later 240Z's had ball joints. steering knuckles & tie-rod ends that had different dimensions than the 1970 versions. As far as I know, the 1970 versions are no longer available. You may need to swap it all out for the later (more robust) versions.

I can't speak to a 5 speed, but if you were going from an "A" 4-speed to a "B" 4-speed in a 2/71 mfg'd S30, you'd have to enlarge the hole in the trans tunnel to make it work.