Bambikiller240

Hi Mike: They are similar to female spades, but are significantly (to me ) different as they have a locking tab that allows them to slip onto the senders connection post in only one direction. I guess that I'll have to take the new sender to the auto parts store or electrical supply store and root through the bins to find something that will work. I have the rubber boots, but they are getting "stiff" in their old age. That may be part of the problem as they are VERY difficult to remove and the wiring takes a beating.

Does anyone know WHERE in the USA the connectors that attach to the sender unit can be purchased? My guage was intermittant for about a year (the sender was new 2 years ago) amd mpw it is dead as a door nail the needle on the guage never moves at all. I'm going to test the sender and I'd like to replace the connectors and solder them to the wiring so I know that I have good connections. Thanks, Carl

Hopefully someone else can answer that for you (us, actually) as I am not very well versed in the mysteries of electricity.

When I ahd that problem with my 72 240Z the only way I could cure the problem was to replace the turn signal switch. I tried cleaning it and it would work briefly, but when I replaced it it has worked perfectly for 3+ years now. It is not a cheap switch to buy.

As originally wired, I'm told that all of the current drawn by the components is routed through the various switches which over time can cause them to fail. Using relays keeps the main current load off of the switches and will prolong the life of them.

Be sure to read the directions concerning pretreatment, application, and ambient air temperature for application before you start. The product is very good, but if improperly applied it will not protect your car.

It would make a great brothel too!

If you are refering to the unit inside the gas tank of a 240Z, then YES they are available from Nissan (at least in the USA they are) If you order one, be sure to order the O-ring that seals the sensor to the gas tank as it is not supplied with the sensor.

Not really sure on that as it will depend on the humidity of your weather. I would suspect one application *should* do it until spring, but at that time I'd apply the pre-treatment products again just to be sure that the surfaces have not begun to rust even the slightest bit. After all the work and expenses involved, I wouldn't want to take any chances on a bad application of POR15. just my $.02

A few months ago it was available from Nissan dealers for $10. It may still be available.

I would suggest Marine Clean, then Metal Ready. Same steps you would use before applying POR. You may need to apply them again just prior to the POR15 application, but that would be far easier than removing a primer.

Where have i seen this before?

Rust begins immediately. Whether you can see it with your eye or not, it starts immediately. Moisture whether it is liquid as in water or moisture vapor in the air will accelerate rust. If you spray primer on the car, you will have to remove it completely before you can treat the metal and use the POR15. A waste of effort IMHO. Primer does not protect metal from rust, it is porous and moisture can and will get to the metal. I would wait to begin the stripping process until closer to the time when your weather will be warm enough to actually apply the POR15 properly. As soon as the metal is stripped, I'd be treating it with Marine-Clean and Metal-Ready. I'd then leave it as is until I was ready to apply the POR15. One other thing to mention, If you do not follow the pre-treatment specified by POR and apply the POR15 product exactly as directed, you will be wasting your time and money. POR15 works great, but proper application is critical to the protection of the metal.

Aloha Joel: I think your Triumph friend has been hitting the "Pakalolo" ( ) too much! 240Z's regularly kicked the butts of TR6's auto-X competition and road racing back in the 70's. The rise of the Datsun 240Z marked the beginning of the end of the British Sports Car market in the USA (and probably elsewhere too) for a reason. They could not compete on the showroom floor or the racetrack. aloha, Carl

Hoe, Hoe, Hoe

Go to the first page of this thread, and look in the 3rd post (by DatsunZGuy) and double click on the words in blue that say CLICK HERE. That will opena a new window to the webpage with the pictures of the car.

Well, that stuff is available in the US, not sure where you'd go in OZ for uphostery and foam core, or strap kit.

the panels available from CDM are black ONLY. However, they will dye them for you at an additional cost. White interior rivets still show up on eBay fairly often.

I'm no expert on 280Z's, but this one sure looks to be in very nice original condition. If the milage can be verified, and there is no evidence of salt/rust issues; it could be worth it. Of course negotiating with the owner for a slightly better price is always a great idea.

I don't know about what's best for your 3.0L, but I've always used a180 for my stock 2.4L

same here:classic:

My 1972 240Z (mfg 11/71) has the non-reclining seats.

It could be that the eBay ID is one of Vic's. Many people have multiple ID's on eBay. Isn't the sellers location listed as in Florida?

The eBay ones were going for $25.00 when auctioned.

Most of the VR's that you will find out there for sale are aftermarket "solid state" units that do not have the adjustments that the OEM VR's had. Many folks complain that these newer sytled VR's fail frequesntly and do not regulate the voltage well. I've never used one of the newer VR's myself, so this should be considered as 2nd hand information. Every once in a while someone on eBay lists a few NOS older style adjustable VR's for auction. F.D. (brand); P/N# HBA12-2 Get 'em while you can