Bambikiller240

Check my gallery for a pic of my floorpan. No dent. It's not the body color anymore as I applied POR15 Rust preventative coating. EDIT: Guess it didn't get uploaded like I thought. It's done now, should be approved on Sat. 01-24-04 with any luck. Sorry.

Ahem,...............................................Need I say more?:classic: :devious:

I *think* Michael was asking for details, like WHERE the wiring was hidden and how? At least that is what I'm asking, if you know.

With all the berths, it would make a great off-shore brothel!

It's not a big deal, but the guy I saw on Speed TV won $50,000 in Barrett-Jackson bucks. Rightous Bucks! He was the last guy in his circle of friends to not have a Muscle car to cruise Woodward Ave in. Guess he's got one NOW! I wonder what he bought? Tho I entered the contest, sadly it wasn't me that won.

Barrett - Jackson is a famous auction house for collector cars (known around the world in fact). They are holding an auction for the next 3 days in Scottsdale, AZ which (portions of) are being telecast on SPEED TV. They will sell many millions of dollars worth of cars in just a few days.

Not sure if this one is the same one or a different one, but there was an Aircraft Carrier up for auction a month or two ago.

The car in Dogma420's avatar more closely resembles 022 Orange as shown in the Downloads > Technical Zcar Documents > 72 color chips, than 110 Red. I had one in that color for many years. EDIT: The new Avatar for Dogma420 IS the color of the 73 240 that I previously owned. 110 RED, Looks different in different light conditions.

Here ya go Ed

Good. Now I don't feel so bad. I got 4 of 10, and I agree, they all looked like playgrounds to me. I have an "Real or Fake T*ts " test in an Excel doc I could share , but the site soesn't allow that type of doc to be uploaded. If anyone wants it, send a PM w/ your email address and I'll send it to you.

Ed: I don't sleep so good. (for long time periods anyway) About 4 hours max and I wake up. Just checked email and the site, watched a bit of TV, now going back to sleep for a few more hours. Talk to you later! Carl

For the uses that you mentioned, *FOR ME*, I'd stick with new 8.8 rather than Stainless, but that is just one persons opinion.

Great Post Phred! Thanks for adding to our knowledge base. Please feel free to post any technical info you would like to share to the forum. Thanks again! Carl

Right, "Stainless" isn't a "grade" of bolt. It describes in general terms the material the bolt is made of. There are different grades of Stainless Steel used to make bolts, hence the A2 and A4 variants of bolts made of Stainless steel that are sold (in the case of my post, by Lawson ). All of Carroll Smith's books are great resources to have and refer to. He was one helluva smart man. Sadly, he passed away recently.

Au Contrare. A little thought on the subject goes a long way to answering questions like this. No, not true. I WOULD (if I were the author) post the thickness that *I* used , though the thickness required is easily measured when one installs them on their own car. (see below) Yes I have, but spacer needed to correct for this will vary based on the offset of the wheels on YOUR car. Impossible for the author to tell the world in general, and would NOT be corrected by the same spacer that would center the rotor within the caliper. If you have a problem with the Wheel hitting the caliper, you would need a different spacer between the wheel and the hub to correct that. Again common sense. Understand it's not like these instructions are for a comprehensive kit PURCHASED from the author, IMO it is unreasonable to expect, and impossible for the author to hold someone's hand though the entire process. They have no obligation to do so, and have no idea of the size of wheels on anyones car but their own. They are doing a service to the community by posting ANYTHING on the subject. Dude, I'm chilled, you are the one who should relax.. I just gave you an explanation. I also asked you to not take offense at the statement as none was meant. Guess you don't read BOLD very well

What usage are you planning for these bolts? In *many* applications, 8.8 metric bolts (or Stainless, even at 87.5% of 8.8) are more than sufficient. A lot of the bolts (hex head capscrews) that I've pulled and retained from the previous two 240Z's that I owned are graded "7" or lower. FWIW, according to www.lawsonproducts.com which is where I buy my metric fastners, since they offer most of them (non stainless anyway) in the proper (for Nissan) even mm wrench size: An 8.8 hex capscrew in size M8 X 1.25 X 25mm has a rating of 830 MPa (120,000 PSI) minimum ultimate tensile strength. An "A2 Stainless" Metric Capscrew in the same size has a rating of Minimum tensile strength 689.5 MPa (80,000 PSI) An "A4 Stainless" Metric Capscrew in the same size has a rating of Tensile strength 700 MPa (101,000 PSI)

Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that you are referring to the Toyota 4 Piston caliper Upgrade using VENTED rotors (since no spacer is needed for the SOLID rotor set up. Right???? There are only two places to put a spacer. 1. Between the HUB and the RIM..........or 2. Between the HUB and the ROTOR. That's it. Think about it. The idea behind using a spacer is to center the rotor within the new caliper. Correct? If you put a spacer between the HUB and the RIM, you move the rim outboard (to correct backspace of the WHEEL); the rotor would remain where it always was. That would not gain you what you need to make this work. In order to MOVE the rotor in relation to the caliper, you must place a spacer in between the HUB and ROTOR. That will accomplish the MOVEMENT of the ROTOR which is what is needed. As for why something like this isn't explained.......... Please don't take offense but,............. if it was MY website the reason would be that I would assume that anyone considering doing this job had a certain level of mechanical competance and understanding as to what was needed and why. It is really just common sense where to put the spacer. Same reason I wouldn't bother to explain how to bleed the brakes after the install.

Thanks for the link Tom. I'll be sure to check them out. Thank you! Carl

If memory serves me, I seem to remember a thread on the IZCC mail list a couple years ago indicating that the difference between the 8mm v.s 9 mm rods is only the diameter of the holes for the bolts. Don't remmber anything about certain rods being shot-peened and other not. Check w/ Phred, bet he knows. (I'm sure he knows more than I about this.)

Bucket? :cross-eye :cross-eye More like a Sieve than a bucket.