Bambikiller240

What is this? AutoX, Road course race, blast through the backroads? Is it a video tape sold somewhere? a downloadable clip? DVD? or ????

I've always heard that the 73 L24 motors came with the 9mm rods. Ealier L24's did not. Here's a copy of a previous post I found on the subject. HTH, Carl Carl Stahlnecker IZCC #8648 & CZC#791 72 240Z "Bambikiller" Pleasanton, CA USA ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Posted by tanny on 11-15-2002 03:57 PM: Question" Rod bolts I have a 1973 240 and am rebuilding the engine. When I measured the rod bolt threads to determine whether I have 8 or 9 mm bolts, I came up with 8mm. From what I read the 1973 is supposed to have the 9mm bolts(I think). Any ideas as to what happened and should I torque these to the lower value as specified for the 8mm bolts. Are the threads where I am supposed to measure? Thanks, Vic. Posted by Phred on 11-15-2002 06:26 PM: Rod Bolts Tanny, I have built several L-24's and have seen both 8mm & 9mm bolts in that year. It seems they just used up their bolt stock, and then switched over to 9mm at some unknown (to me) eng. #. The bolt is measured at the thread. If you have 8mm bolts and are rebuilding, replace the bolts with ARP #202-6002 8mm bolts. They are actually stronger ( in tensile strength) than a stock 9mm bolt. The torque for the ARP bolts is 30 lbs. with Moly lube. When replacing rod bolts, The big ends should be checked for cap shift, (ID roundness and taper) and proper brg. clr. with the caps torqued to spec. About 90% of the time they require resizing. Wherein a few thousanths are ground off the mating surfaces of the rod and cap, the caps are then torqued to spec, and then honed back out to the proper size, which makes them perfectly round, with the correct brg. clr. All this can only be done by a quality eng. rebuilding shop. Prefeably a race eng. shop. This can be done with the pistons attached. If you are also replacing pistons, you could also balance rods and pistons at this time if your budget allows. Hope this helps. Phred www.arp-bolts.com

My point exactly. This IS a Z site and there are people who don't specifiy what Z model (or other model) they have when they post. If you are going to post on ANY model (Z, K, C, or whatever) it is up to YOU to let people know what the heck you are talking about. If you don't specify what you are talking about (model specific) that is your problem and a spearate forum for "Z cousins" isn't going to help. It's up to the individual poster to ask the right question including the discription of what model he/she's talking about. This is common sense. IMHO if it's done, it should not be named "Other Datsuns" as I believe that WILL encourage a free-for-all, and a dilution of the focus of the site.

If I was in the market for a new car in the $30K price range, I would purchase something else. The styling is VERY lacking to my eye. :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick: To each his own, I guess.

Searching for ANY model specific info would be easier if people would just include the model designation in the subject line. I'd like to see that happen more often. As it is, sometimes folks ask questions and don't even bother to mention what model they are referring to at all. Occasionally we can figure it out from a signature line, but not always.

Usual Caveat regarding Age and Sensitivity applies!!!!

Obvious? What's obvious? Any pics of what you are talking about????

It's a FUGLEY Toad

That would be a GREAT color for a Z (well, it would be for "my" Z anyway). Put a couple of "Cobra" stripes in a Pearl White on it and it would look FANTASTIC. :love:

I don't feel that we need a separate website or anything, like that, but a separate forum on this site *might" be good IF the 240K guys want one. For myself, I enjoy reading and learning about these "cousins" to the Z. It's not like there are so many of them (members owning one) that they are crowding the Z content of the club.

Wrong, wrong, wrong. IF anything it is refined and filtered to a higher standard than automotive gas. Aeroplanes cannot afford to have fuel related problems IN FLIGHT. The Public Road Use taxes are not added into the price of said fuels and these fuels are STILL of a far higher cost than fuel sold for road going (automotive) engines.

Try a Google search on the term "Loan Calculator". I think you'll find a ton of them. Oh, and the Vehicle section of eBay used to have one too.

Then there is the "other" reason that certain speed limits are placed on certain roads. This and That which gives certain municipalities, courts and the Police (er Tax Collectors in that juridiction) a bad name. NOTE: this is not meant as a slam to Police Officers in general. Only to those who make a hobby out of entrapment, OK?

An Aviation Mechanic friend has mentioned that these AvGas products are sometimes colored so that when burned they leave a tell-tale color in your exhasust pipe. Since these fuels are not sold with the Road Use Taxes included in the price, it is illegal to run them in vehicle used on public roads. I don't know how much chance there is of getting busted, but if your luck is like my luck you'd get nailed at the first stop light as you left the airport.

The carb linkage looks different because the European market cars did not have to have the US Smog Equipment installed. The breather hose on US cars IS normally fed back into the air cleaner (I have no idea if it SHOULD be different on Euro spec cars) so that the engine can burn the noxious vapors rather than sending directly to the atmosphere to be breathed "fresh" from the crankcase ventilation system.

Charlie: Use mperdues pic for reference and look at your car to see if yours are mangled up or gone. Maybe the previous owner replaced them. (it's possible) For the front suspension, you can just turn the steering to full lock to view. For the rears, you may have to pull the tire to get a good view.

Sounds about normal for everything sold in the world . Marketing before substance. :stupid:

Hi Rob: Welcome to the club! Tell us about your car. What year is it? Any mods done by previous owner?

On a 240Z (probably 260 and 280Z's too) the bump stop is built into the "hat" that goes over the spring to keep it compressed and secure to the strut housing. BUT, after 30 years most of them have disintegrated due to age and weather. You can usually get Urethane replacement bump stops at well stocked parts stores (they wouldn't be specific to a Z car) or from suspension parts retailers on the net. They keep your strut (shock) from "bottoming out" and destroying itself if the suspension gets fully compressed.

:sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:

Sounds like your Brake Booster has failed, or you have a vacuum leak in the hoses/check valve leading to the booster. See if you can track down the location of the leak. If it is th hoses or check valve, it will be a cheap and easy fix. If it is the booster, it won't be very cheap and will be less easy, though not too bad.

I don't know of a site that would tell you what you want to know, but I do know that you'd need more info than weight and HP to figure it out. You'd need Transmission ratio's and Diff ratio, and tire diameter also. The answer calculated would just be a "number" and not very relavant to the real world. You'd also need to know where in the RPM range your engine makes power (torque curve) I think.