Bambikiller240

OK, I stand corrected. Vinegar is a weak ACID solution. All you want to do is CLEAN the parts, not eat them. ACETIC acid would be inappropriate in the solution (much stronger than vinegar) that you now describe.

Household vinegar IS a "weak acetic acid solution". Check the label.

Sounds like someone is volunteering to make the call!

Probably also cuts his top speed and mileage by 10% or more. I just finished reading Brock Yates book "Cannonball" about the "Cannonball Sea to Shining Sea Memorial Trophy Dashes" which most everyone is familiar with. In Yates first dash across the US he had a wing added to the rear of the souped up Dodge Van they were driving. It cut their top speed by great amount and reduced their mileage to the point where they could never get more than 9 MPG.

www.midwest.com I believe. There is a banner ad for them on our Home Page. It rotates with the Dashboard Restoration folks ad. You could also send CHLOE a Private message. Her username is " mwz ". Tell her she needs to put a picture of herself on the site too!

"Awe" Thank you!

And where is your picture Mr. Tanny?

I'll bet you $5 that Chloe will beat their prices! Remember, that $100 is for the valve ONLY. Once their mechano-jock starts ripping on it, they'll be adding hoses to the bill too, so figure on $300+ if you send the job out to them.

Chloe at Midwest Z is where you start. She will get you the best price and the best service. Not sure what the EXACT Nissan name is, but if you ask for a Heater Control Valve for a 1978 280Z, almost anyone would know what you are talking about. Make sure you also get all of the hoses in that area, and you might want to get new grommets where they pass through the firewall unless yours are in very good shape.

Has he ridden in the car? Looked for the problem after the install? I know from being inside a car (driving) it's hard to find problems, just wondering if they have or could put it on a lift and run the car to see how the rotating assemblies look while moving. Hope you find the cause soon. Be sure to post the results so others can benefit from your experience.

I got my Pertronix from Vic Brit.

You are correct, though my buzzer isn't white, it is bare metal, but the location is at the steering collumn, and it's easy to disconnect, BUT; do yourself a favor and wear the seatbelt anyway!

Geez, Alan. I almost missed this thread. Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I agree about considering a civil case against the barbarian. The fool needs to be punished in some way. You emerged from the incident safely. Hope tomorrow is a better day for you, Carl

I would not suggest anything that is powerful, or "sports car like" for a 16 year old, male or female. I've seen too many otherwise "stable" teenagers go NUTZ in higher performing vehicles while out of Mommy and Daddy's view. True it can happen with any car, but inexperienced drivers are not capable of controlling the power and responsiveness of these types of cars. It takes time and practice to learn car control and responsibility behind the wheel. In short, these cars easily outperform the inexperienced driver (and some experienced drivers too!) who's judgement in a vehicle is not well developed. Seerex had some good suggestions. Better she demonstrate responsibility behind the wheel for a few years before being handed a sports car or other high powered vehicle.

How sure are you that "the suspension guy" actually did replace the strut cartidge (which is INSIDE the strut), and did it right? Is he familiar with Independent suspension? Has he ridden in the car to experience the symptoms that you describe? These are a few of my favorite questions.

OK, some of the wires from the relays should go to a different location. Do you know where they go? Are they just hanging in the air, as if the item being powered by the relays has been removed? if so get rid of all that junk, but be sure to insulate the power wire(s) that energized this add-on wiring, you don't need a short to delvelop.

Sounds like the valve is bad from your description. Unless the hoses look virtually new and are soft and supple as "Z beautie's butt", I'd replace them at the same time! As stated before, you don't want to have to do this job twice.

They do look like relays. You're going to have to follow thewires to see where they go. Could be the PO installed them to run high wattage headlights, in which case you'll want to keep them. They could also have been for fog lamps or something else. "Follow the wires, and ye shall be delivered!" Where are the switches that you mentioned? Not shown in either pic unless I missed them. Are they just generic toggle switches?

Chloe at Midwest Z is where you start. She will get you the best price and the best service. Check carefully where the hoses run through the firewall (from the engine side at first) as it could be a cracked hose and the A/F runs along the hose to the lower points which are inside your car. See if the hoses are wet there in the engine bay near the firewall. If they aren't, I'd get the hoses AND the valve and replace it all at once. This isn't the kind of job that you want to do twice, as you'll spend a lot of time on your back, upside down in the passenger footwell replacing this stuff. PS you'll be more comfortable doing this job if you pull the passenger seat out so you have more room to lay in there. Just my $.02

Have you read the new Technical Article on Fan Clutch Reconditioning? It has more information than the threads posted earlier, including a description of how much the fan should turn when cold or hot. SEE THE ARTICLE HERE!

That picture is of the "FLOW GUIDE VALVE" it is designed to route fuel vapors that may build up in the fuel tank to one of two places. IF the engine is running, the vapors are routed to the aircleaner to be burned with the incoming air charge. If tyhe engine is NOT running, the vapors are routed to the crankcase to evaporate in there. It does not rob horsepower, or anything like that. After 30 years it is probably gummed up inside and may not be operating, but it could be restored to operating condition by cleaning in solvent (like you might clean a PCV valve). FWIW Carl If you have K&N's without provision for it, you could just leave that nipple on the Flow Guide Valve open to atmosphere I guess. I don't *think* it would be a problem. ( My car has a K&N made to fit the stock aircleaner so I haven't had to deal with that.)

quoted from 240z.org Mail list: ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 10 Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 17:17:28 +0000 Scott's Performance is at: Scott Performance 2555 Lafayette St # 104, Santa Clara, CA 95050 Phone: (408) 988-2233 They're right next to Apex motorsports, the mustang shop. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- -- '73 240z > Try Dandos in Fremont... Andy Craig National and Regional race Champion > in a Z car. http://www.dandos.com/ > Dando's is in Fremont right across from NUMI plant. Behind dando's is bozz performance and performance exhaust center, if you need those shops for reference. ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Questions about MAJOR re-design of a car (any Z car) might get better answers if asked at HybridZ.com. The folks there do some pretty radical stuff and could probably answer questions like this.