Bambikiller240

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!! Well know scam. The check they send is a bogus one and by the time it is discovered, the car is gone, you are on the hook to the shipper for costs to send your car somewhere. There was two threads about this a month or so ago. Said it was coming from Africa somewhere.

To the "Upper" bolt that holds the Starter to the Bell Housing (the OEM location) Where have you been mounting the Negative Cable from your battery? Somewhere else? If so, then I think you've found the cause of your Clutch hose frying. The starter uses a lot of power (AMPS) and if the Neg battery cable isn't there, the current would probably use the S/S hose as a path to where ever you had connected the Neg Batt cable in order to complete the circuit.

You're welcome There IS supposed to be an ashtray there. Sorry, but I don't have a picture of one.

My CA 240Z had the beginnings of Floorboard A/C from a bad weatherseal. Thank goodness I caught it with just a few minor perforations. POR'ed and Power Meshed the snot out of it last summer. Now good to go!

My Rear Engine mount looks like this too. (Less rust, more paint) Car mfg'd 11/71

#1 Correct, cannot convert without major cutting an welding of the newer style mount brackets into the tunnel #2 YES.

Oh, Man that's a drag. Sure hope you get some funds from those guys soon. You shouldn't have to use your money for this IMO.

I don't see why it wouldn't work. HOWEVER, instead of worrying about heat burns from a torch or heat gun, you'll need to be careful to not get freeze burns from the dry ice. It will kill skin just as quick as heat will.

PhotoShop or MS Paint

I'm not sure about the ZX trans. I was assuming a 280Z 5 speed.

Next time you get that Engineer away from the Exec's, you might tell him that around here we refer to those Carbs as "Boat Anchors". He MAY get a kick out of that.

WAY OFF. The car we in the USA (actually North America) know as the 240Z, and the car others around the world know as a Fairlady Z (along with several other variations) are part of the Nissan Model designation of "S30". HS30 vehicles are RIGHT HAND drive HLS30 vehicles are LEFT HAND drive. Other members can fill in more detail, but that is the short answer to your question.

100% Normal. They are the same P/N. Just that one is installed upside down. Another example of Nissan's cost-cutting when the Z was put into production.

You should not have to cut the floor. Straight forward bolt-in.

Oh, THAT'S what it is. Usually only see that much white powder in an NFL Locker room.

Sway Bars are made of hardened steel, but I don't see why you couldn't drill through one. Not sure if "threads" would be the way to go. BRE springs? Where does one get BRE springs and are they for adjustable coilovers or the stock type spring set-up? Can you elaborate on the "Tubes" that you mentioned. Maybe I'm too sleepy, but I don't understand what they are. If you did all that install work in one afternoon, you were really busy! Wish I could get that much done so quickly. OK, I admit, I'm kinda lazy. Someone told me that an Aluminum bat works better than a wooden one for rolling fender lips. Anyone else know if that is true? I haven't tried either myself.

Thanks for the measurement, Steve W O W ! ! That is short. I'm going to check the end links that came with my bar next time I get the chance. (probably Wednesday) I don't think mine are that size, but the ones you have look perfect on your car. PS, remember to get Grade 8 bolts when you go shopping for new ones.

Sure looks like it should be that way. I'm gonna save this picture for when I get around to installing my rear sway bar. Do you by chance have a measurement on the center spacer for the links you are now using?

Let us know how it all comes out for you Steve. I just went into the room I store *most* of my Z parts in and the rear bar I bought on eBay 2 years ago looks exactly like the one you have. Unfortuately, the end links that came with it are across town at my parents house. I don't remember the length, but they were basically just long bolts with a sleeve that served to separate the bearing/bushing cups. BTW, did you put coil-overs on this car? or how / how much did you lower it?

Do you know the brand of Rear Bar that you're using? Since you bought end links, I'm guessing that you got the bar "used" somewhere? I'm wondering if the bar was meant to use end links that are longer than the ones you have. The way your picture shows the bar installed is the way I installed a Mulholland (Interpart) rear bar on a previous Z. I can't find a picture that shows the end links, but they may have been longer than you describe. (It was a long time ago and memory is hazy)

depending on which Crane system was installed, an adapter may or may not be needed. I didn't need one when I installed a Crane XR700 system.

Which Crane system did you install? They have many models.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=9554&highlight=Sway+bars One of my posts in the above thread has a picture I got from Ground Control of that kind of bar. It doesn't show it installed however. The bar "arms" go "over" (above) the half-shafts. Have you tried mounting the sway bar both ways (i.e. upside down from the first attempt)?

A wise choice, I believe. Bring the old one to the Parts retailer and show them the difference. Sounds like the one they gave you isn't the proper one for your car. (Duh, I'm sure you planned on doing just that)

Hi Mark: Was the new M/C itself "identical" to the old one? If so, use the old push rod. 1/4" is a huge difference in push rod length (IMHO). If the M/C is NOT identical to the original, I'd be thinking along the lines that they gave you the wrong one. just my $.02 Carl