Bambikiller240

Hi Alan: Thanks for posting the scan, but I am wondering about the descriptions as they relate to the Numbered pieces. Something seems a bit off. #9 is listed as "tunnel insulator", but the item shown as #9 doen't go on the tunnel, it is a piece for the rear area behind the seats. Items labeled as #4,5,6 seem to be "tunnel pieces", yet the description indicates tunnel pieces as being #3,6,9 . There are other pieces that appear to be mis-labeled. Is it just me not understanding or is there something fishy?

The Air filter element for later 240Z's is indeed thicker than for the earlier (pre FLAT TOP Carb'ed) 240Z's. It SOUNDS like the sellers are giving you the wrong filter. I'll have to measure how thick my filter is for Bambikiller (mifg'd 11/71) I haven't had a problem getting the right filter, though I bought a K&N lifetime filter a couple of years ago and haven't bought anything since then. BTW your air cleaner can does look like the one of the early styles.

I only know of two rubber pieces there. One seals the actual opening in the transmission where the shifter mounts (it is round), the other seals the transmission tunnel itself. The only other thing there is the interior boot (a vinyl boot mounted to the console) Here's a picture from an eBay auction. It shows the two rubber pieces and the holddown ring for the trans tunnel piece, and a shift knob. PS The shift knob usually loosens due to the vibrations caused by worn/damaged shifter bushings. If the insert looens much the knob will fall off in your hand.

Yep, good deal Steve. When the costs are stated it's up to the bidder to have his/her eyes open and brain in gear. No quibbles there. My feeling is that eBay should require the shipping cost calculator to be used, or for fixed shipping quotes to be part of the auction set-up process. I had one person inquire as to the basis for my shipping cost and I gave him the weight of the package and referred him to the USPS website for a quote, and he emailed back an acceptance of my stated shipping cost within 2 hours.

Style, art, same diff. It ain't a race in anyway from what I have seen. Sure speed is required as it's tough to "drift" when travelling very slowly. Also, the skills required increase when multiple cars are on the track in close proximity. Each driver must drift with style and flair, AND avoid crashing into the other competiters. Showmanship and Skill like Ice skating (but not quite so boring!)

You are missing the point Mike. The thread started with a complaint about the shipping fee NOT BEING stated and then it being quoted at an excessive rate for a puny, light weight item after the end of auction. Also, keep in mind that most of these items are used parts stripped out of a parts car or leftovers from a project. Generally there is very little cost basis in them, so most if not all of the sale price is profit to the seller. By that I mean these problems generally do not occur with sellers selling new items ( or "professional" high volumn used-parts sellers) as they know what the are doing, and how to run a business. I.E. Chloe at Midwest_Z, and the other people mentioned who run a REAL business, and want repeat customers. It is the amateurs (mostly) who do not know how to price their items properly and then experience remorse when it sells cheaper than they wished who screw people on onerous shipping charges. Of course the shipping cost should not change based on the selling price, but it often seems that when an item draws few bids and someone gets a bargain on the auction, many amateur sellers will use inflated shipping prices to make up for the deal the smart bidder won fairly. We're talking about sellers who do not list the shipping cost, and in some cases will not repond to inquiries as to those costs. If the shipping cost is openly stated in the auction, or can be calculated with eBays FREE calculating tool and a person bids, then that is acceptable though it may be an excessive shipping cost, and there should be no whining about those costs after the auction ends. The bidder must be aware of the terms of the auction to bid intelligently. CAVEAT EMPTOR means Buyer Beware, but it does not give license for the seller to rape honest buyers.

OK, Steve. To start out I'll say that I also sell a bit on eBay, and my comments are directed at the statements, NOT DIRECTLY AT YOU. To my knowledge I have never bought anything from you, and even if I have, I HAVE NO AXE TO GRIND AGAINST YOU. Period. Packaging an item for shipment is part of the job of completing the sale for items sold via the internet, It is a known cost of doing business this way. The cost of this should be either included in the minimum starting bid, stated up front on the auction page, or provided upon request to any potential bidder. If Bob Zola (eBay id: rzola), or Chloe (eBay id midwest_z), or other sellers such as "stockcuz", can do it, anyone can do it. eBay makes it easy to add a shipping calculator to your auction. You can even preload fees above the actual cost of UPS, USPS or Fed EX costs to be included when a bidder enters their zip code for a quote. Boxes, tape, and mailing labels can be ordered for FREE from the USPS website and will be delivered to the sellers door. FREE! Sure they won't have huge boxes for engines, transmissions, diffs, or other giant or extremely heavy/bulky items, but many local retailers will set aside sturdy boxes if they are asked nice, and aren't expected to store them for long time periods. Save the daily newspapers, they make great packing for many (though not all) items. There are simple ways to minimize expenses. Note: I have used the free USPS boxes to ship via Fed Ex and UPS, though USPS frowns on it. Any seller should know the size, shape, weight of the items being sold AND the materials that will be needed to pack said items for delivery to the buyer. If materials are not at hand, they should know the cost of acquiring them. Shipping costs can be calculated at home with a simple bathroom scale and and a scan of the info on the various shipper websites. Don't ship everyday, ship 2 or three times a week and be organized about it. Anytime a tracking number is provided by the shipper, it should be forwarded to the buyer immediately. After all, they paid for it! Most eBay sellers have regular "professional" jobs, but to expect the buyer to pay "professional" wages for a job (packing and shipping) that almost any idiot can do with a bit of thought and minimal skills is unreasonable. If the seller values their time so greatly that large fees must be added to the actual shipping cost perhaps they should be in some other business; or those fees should be included in the starting minimum bid, stated up front, or be available upon request before bids are placed so that the buyer can bid accordingly with full knowledge of what he/she is going to be expected to pay. Anything less is DISHONEST. I wonder how many sellers would accept a buyer deducting the cost of a money order, envelopes, stamps, and the cost of going to the post office from the winning bid? Are the buyer's expenses, and time worth less than those of the seller? I think not! Each has entered into the contract to buy/sell of their own free will and should conduct themselves in a honorable and ethical manner.[/list=1]

There used to be a write up on Zhome.com on how to make them, I've never seen them sold, myself. The OEM ones are plastic, they last for quite a few years, say 3 to 5 minimum in my experience.

S-L-O-W

Replace the 3 pieces of shifter bushings. Common problem, easily fixed

N-36

Prices will vary greatly from location to location around the country, and additionally from shop to shop based on the actual service provided. I paid $600 to Rebello Racing for Valves, Valve Guides, Valve Seats and "Optimization of the Valve Train Geometry", new lash pads were also provided as part of the service. The head was returned to me fully set up (Valve lash adjusted cold) to just drop onto the short block and go. I could have paid half that price at a regular neighborhood machine shop (without the Rebello expertise, and "optimization" and lash pads). EDIT: Forgot to mention that price was paid two years ago.

I have a 1972 front bumper that could use this kind of service. I am in Nor. CA. Let me know how this deal comes together (put me on the list)

DOes LINE X have a website to confirm what the guy told you. Does the manufacturer offer a warrenty on the stuff? I only trust what is in writing, and even then.............

Oh, man IMSA!!! Boy do I miss the excitement of those races! I was fortunate to attend every IMSA race at Laguna Seca and Sears Point from 1978 until the day IMSA died. in no particular order: Tullius in that Beautiful Screaming V12 Jag XJR John Paul Sr/Jr in the 935 Bob Wollek in a 935 Derek Bell in a 935 Peter Gregg in the 934's and 935's Bob Holbert in the 962 (forget what he drove before them) Frank Leary in the 240Z GTU PL Newman in the various Z Cars Bob Devendorff in the ZX's (drifting through T10 at Sears!) Geoff Brabham in the Nissan ZX GTP the list goes on but I'm at work and time is limited. We need something with the excitement and flair of those events in the US, but we are stuck with Snorecar, Indy Rehab League, and what's left of Champcars (they became Chumpcars & commited suicide) EDIT: (thanks Steve P. for reminding me) Oh yeah and Gurney's "tiny mighty twin turbo" 1.6L Toyota(or was it 1.3 L) GTP

With clean surfaces, none should be necessary. If you "must" use something, I would use common silicone sealant in this location, but it should not be necessary to use any sealant.

Are the latest images uploaded from the same website or a different one? Looks like the photo's are of a gathering at the same venue. (Sagamiko Picnic Land)

Speed doesn't count in " Drifting". I think that it is just an exercise in car control, taken to the extreme. Balancing the control of the car on the edge of loosing control. I find it interesting to watch, at least for brief periods of time. I don't think it would hold my interest for a whole day, so I probably won't ever actually attend an event. Sort of like those guys in the Joey Chitwood driving shows where they drive a car on only the two right side wheels, or Ice Skating/Dancing where they do all those spins and leaps that nobody ever needs to do in "normal" skating. They're just demostrating extreme control of what they are doing.

What is the stock compression for an L28? I know on a early L24 with the High Comp E-31 head it is 180 from the factory. Have you done anything to the head to explain the high compression? I'd think you'd have to mill the head MASSIVELY to raise the compression to the range you stated. Unless someone put High Comp Pistons in the block. I assume that your child is still alive. (?) Well hopefully anyway. At least you now have an excuse to double check everything.

OK, now I understand what direction you are coming at this from. Still not sure it's worth the effort (expecially since V8 swaps are so common and semi-easy (if you follow the JTR recipe), but I understand your point.

If you put in a VW flat 4 cylinder motor in a Z you could put the aircleaner AND a stereo there! I still have to ask....What is the point in doing all of this re-engineering? What is to be gained? PS I'm POSITIVE, for ME it isn't worth the effort to consider. It works, don't fix it. Sorta like trying to redesign the apple.

Correct. They didn't see a problem. Now, 20 years later we all see it.

I would say that there is a good chance the thermostat has become stuck in the open position (or was removed for some :stupid: reason); I'd do as you mentioned, and replace it (or add it back). It's quick and easy, and good preventative maintainance. When you start the engine from dead cold, with the radiator cap off, can you see the water in the radiator top tank "flowing" from the water pump? If so, that would confirm the thermostat either stuck open or missing. There should be no "flow" until the water in the engine gets hot enough to trigger the thermostat opening (usually a 180 degree thermo, though some run a 160 degree). BTW, I just came back from a drive in my Z. Temp is about 55 degrees, and it took 5 minutes at high idle w/ choke on for the thermostat to open. Before it opened, the water in the radiator was cold to the touch and the surface of the water was "still", when the thermo opened, the water got too hot to touch immediately and "flow" was obvious.

Good thought, Gary. Another reason to leave the filter where it is.

230 to 235 sounds awfully high for a basically stock L6 engine.