Bambikiller240

Several reasons. 1. V8's had DOWNDRAFT Carbs originally. Thus filter on TOP of carb(s). The L6 had Side Draught Carbs originally, thus filter on SIDE. 2. V8's have a lower profile thn an L6 engine, thus even when FI became standard, there was/is more room up there. When FI came to the L6, the engine profile was/is still too tall to move filter to "top of engine". There isn't room "on top of the engine" to do this. Best you could do is put it "on top of the intake manifold". What would the point to doing this be? To make all of those things like "fuel rail, ignition wires & all the wires and hoses for the fuel injectors" MORE difficult to get to when maintainance is needed? The manufacturers don't change things unless it is either more efficient, or cheaper, or both. It's the same with the vacuum Solenoids. If they could have been eliminated by use of a simple "T" fitting, don't you think the manufacturer would have done so and put the extra money spent on the solenoids in their pocket?

Hello Kats: The shape of the rubber mats that you posted is different than the ones I have seen in 240Z at auto shows in the US. I believe that these mats may be for use in a different Datsun model. By the way, Thank you for posting so many wonderful pictures and information on the early Z cars of all types. Oh, and your car looks very nice. Congratulations! Carl

The cylinder head from an L24 would have smaller intake and exhaust valves than a cylinder head from an L28. Significant machine work ($) would be required to install larger (L28-sized)valves in the head from an L24. If done, you could probably get more power at a higher compression, but the cost to do so may be a bit high. The first thing to find out is what head you have from the L24 and what head from the L28. Early L24's came with E-31 head, thenthere were TWO varieties of E88 head (only the early one is desirable). I don't know the specifics of L28 engines so maybe some one else can chime in or check www.Zhome.com for more info on the different heads found on L28 motors.

You want him to pound MORE holes in the car? Yikes!!!

I'd be interested in looking at it to see if it will meet my needs. Please send me a Private Message and we can talk it over. Thanks, Carl

Hi Jerry: Good to hear that you are getting back to a normal life after the firestorms. We all appreciate the efforts of you and your brother/sister firefighters in helping to save lives and property. Thank You! Carl

It is not wise to "Presume" when legal matters are concerned. A photographer may authorize use of a photgraph in a certain context or setting, he/she may authorize a certain person, company, or website to use the photograph; yet still retain the ownership of that photograph and have control over it's usage in any other situation. IMHO, It's best to err on the side of caution in cases like this.

My experience on eBay has been that if the shipping charge is not stated, and you don't get a quote before the end of auction............you will get screwed on the shipping at least 70% of the time. Now days there is only one reason for the shipping cost to be secret, and that is to allow the seller to rip off bidders if the sale price doesn't reach what the seller hoped it would. When you set up an auction you can select the option to have a "shipping calulator" included on the auction page ( for free!)with your choice of shipper, AND the option to add an amount to the actual postage for packing materials, etc. Any potential bidder simply enters his zip code and the exact cost is displayed. IF the seller uses USPS Priority mail, they can get FREE boxes, tape, labels etc by simply logging into the USPS website and placing an order. FREE!!! Delivered to the sellers home!

It will only be one point on the record. My most recent speeding ticket was for 20 mph over the limit and the cost to clear it was $170, or Option B: $190 and traffic school ($20) to keep it off the driving record so the insurance co doesn't F*ck you.

Post if you want, but for those of us who don't know what the heck they are...............could you identify each of them with something more specific than "Japanese Domestic Market". That is the only part I found annoying.

It can be made to work on a 240Z radiator. He'll need to make brackets to bridge from the shroud to the mounting points on the radiator, and trim around the lower hose connection. Also will need to remove the "finger protecter" from the 240 Radiator top tank. Takes a bit of time, but is defintely worth the effort IMO. Just did it myself a few weeks ago. Since Gary (beandip) is looking for one too: 280Z Fan Shroud on eBay I am not the seller, and do not know anything about him/her, or the condition of the item being sold.

OK then; Who in OZ has a 260Z with a stock radiator? Can you answer halz question?

Well, he did say "most likely".

Not to mention that it's already on eBay. HERE!!!!!!!!! Or is this the "beta testing" that you refered to?

Back in the early 70's the DOMESTIC new cars began to be sold in October of the previous year. I.E. 1971 Ford, Chebbies, Chrysler cars began to be sold in October of 1970. Foreign car manufacturers didn't necessarily follow that scheme, though *some" effort was made by *some* manufacturers. Your car was manufactured in 1970 and would typically have arrived in the US in 1970 also. It could have been titled as either a 1970 or 1971 depending on the arrival date and how money hungry the original dealer was. There was no "half year" model. The link that Chloe provided explains it in much more detail.

Maybe they're just bored with having that much real racing action to watch. Meanwhile, we in the States have to be content with Snorecar, Chumpcars (I used to love the series), and IRL (Indy Rehab Series).

I watch it religously here in the States. Every Weds on Speed Channel. I don't have a real favorite driver, but it sure is an exciting series.

To my (USA spec) knowledge there are two types of lower radiator hose for 240/260/280Z. One is for the type of radiator found on 280Z's that has a lower "outlet" that is straight (horizontal). That is, it exits without any bend and is about 3" long. The other is for the type of radiator that is found on 240Z's which has a pronounced 90 degree bend to the outlet so that it ends up pointing upward (vertical) and is about 5" in total length. I believe that the diameter is the same on both types, but I'm sorry, that I don't know which type of radiator is found on a 260Z

This statement is not true! I have had left rear turn signals work while the left front did not work. I partially disassembled the turnsignal switch and sprayed contact cleaner into it. This resolved the problem temporarily. (It came back) Eventually I bought a new turn signal switch assembly and the problem went away permanently (for the last 3 years). Now I'm not advocating the replacement of the asembly until you have tried everything else, as it is EXPENSIVE, but the switch can affect fronts without affecting the rear. As 2Many alluded to, start by cleaning the sockets at the bulbs and work your way backward. Front Turn signal light assemblies are subjected to a lot of weather.

I install the engine to the point where it is sitting on the front two engine mounts (nuts NOT installed where the mounts pass through the frame) and the rear of the engine is supported with a *slight* downward tilt with 4X4 and 2X4 blocks of wood. Then I use a transmission jack to support the trans at a *slight* upward tilt at the front. I have never tried to install the engine with the trans already installed in the car. It's only a few extra bolts to drop it and that's what I have done. Good Luck!

3/4" is about the depth of the pilot bushing. Are you *sure* that the pilot bushing installed is the correct one? I.D. of bushing compatible with the O.D. of the input shaft? There is little clearance between the input shaft and pilot bushing so everything must be lined up VERY close to perfect, or it will not slide in completely. Return the cherry picker, and get some blocks of wood to support the rear of the engine. When you are ready to try intalling the trans again, get a transmission jack and use that to install it. When I installed my engine and trans this summer, the trans hung up a bit at the point you are at, but a little wiggling side to side and up/down while supported on the jack got it to slide home within about 15-20 minutes total time. Sure beat having the trans supported by my arms and on my chest. (guess Keith types faster than I do)

280Z Fan Shroud on eBay Somebody was looking for a fan shroud for a 240Z a few days ago. This one can be modified with a little effort to fit the 240Z radiator which is slightly different in size from the 280Z radiator. I am not the seller, and do not know anything about him/her, or the condition of the item being sold.

In a word, YES (as Dave said) In a word NO. All of the aftermarket aircleaners that I have seen do not have such a provision. After having this filter on the valve cover for a while, you do need to clean it to remove any oil build up or it will eventually drip out on the engine.

The fitting on the valve cover is normally routed by a hose to the intake air cleaner so that blow-by air from the engine has a place to go. When using *some* aftermarket air cleaners (which may not have the provision for the hose), you can use the filter which will trapp any oil mist blowing out of that valve cover fitting to keep it from being puked all over your nice clean engine compartment.