Bambikiller240

Civil Servants my A$$!:sick: Why am I not surprised? No wonder people pull stunts like this, it's because they can get away with it!

Pick the muffler of your choice (Borla, Dynomax, Flowmaster, or??) and have a local muffler shop that does high quality work build you a mandrel bent custom 2.5 inch dia. system. If you need the "Y" pipe from the exhaust manifold, it is available from Motorsport Auto, or Victoria British, or maybe even Nissan (not sure about Nissan).

In a Z that I owned a few years back, I had a noise that occured when I drove over a rough railroad crossing. I would hear a kind of "Thump and Rattle" that turned out to be the spring-type support hanger for the right-side Hand brake cable (from the "U-shaped bracket to the right rear brake assembly) being a bit stretched out and allowing the cable to hit other parts of the car when the suspension was compressed on that side of the car.

I vote for keeping it very close to original. You have a great start with the car that you found. It would be a pity to drastically alter a "SURVIVOR Z". Mild mods such as 2Many mentioned wouldn't hurt, but anything major should be avoided IMHO.

With a price like that, I would be afraid to leave a car with them mounted unattended for more than two minutes. Might even have to electrify the chassis.

Do you have a link to a place that sells this stuff? Any specs for us to compare the product to Dynamat?

I would expect to have no holes in it. Especially no holes big enough to stick my head through. It's a "pretty" Parts car at best.

The first time I experienced Upstate NY in winter, I was totally amazed and completely depressed at the condition of the cars I saw on the road. All I can say is SALT SUCKS!

...............is another man's parts inventory for eBay sales!

That makes sense! No use paying before you need the parts. Keep an eye on eBay and elsewhere. You never know what will come up for sale. When you spot what you want GRAB IT!

I'm no fan of ZX "cars", but heck it's got an L28 w/ EFI and probably an R200 Diff so it's worth more than $50, but that cancer would scare me from a safety standpoint. What other hidden parts of the car are ready to collapse next time it hits a pothole. I will say that the car is a great example to prospective Z buyers of why it is SO important to do a thorough inspection of a car before making an offer and purchasing something that becomes a project (money pit) that one hadn't planned on .

Hi Mike: Your car is similar to mine in most respects, though manufactured two months earlier. Mine is: HLS30-55703 11/71 1972 Model year **My seats are the old style NOT flip Forward No Gas Door latch pockets for seat belt retractors Remember, that back in the early 70's the cars for a particular model year went on sale in October of the previous year, so Nissan started production of the cars around July or August so that they could be on-shore in the US, and available by October. To be sure, there is overlap at different times and places in the Z production time line, but "generally" I've found the info at ZHome to be quite good. With the list of features, a VIN and Production date, QCAR17 should be able to determine what he's got.

Maybe she overheard you talking about roasting her tires and videotaping the heinous act for the gratuitous pleasure of your friends and aquaintances. :cross-eye :devious:

First of all, I'm flattered at your comment, but I must say that there are many others here who know more than I. Mike W has given you good advice. You should be able to confirm the type of your car with the VIN and the information at ZHome.com. If you do find a need for more help, don't hesitate to post and we'll do our best to help you! **EDIT** HLS30 019889 was Last of Series One Body Style HLS30 21001 was First of Series II Body Style

They do not look anything like the Ground Control set pictured on Pg 1 of the thread. I don't think they are the S.T. brand either. Shape doesn't look right to me. Perhaps Victor Laury can confirm (since he has one on his car), but the shape of the Rear bar in your picture looks similar to what I remember the MSA bar looking like. Also, no mounting brackets are shown, so even if it WAS the right style bar, you'd be then searching (and paying more $$) for the rest of the hardware needed to install it on your car. If you are going to want to buy a used set of bars, I'd pass on these and wait until you find a seller who can show you a picture of a complete set-up that confirms that what you will be getting is what what you want to have. Painful, YES! Choices, Choices. Patience, or $$

See my posted reply on page 1 of this thread. Ground Control has what you are looking for and it costs $259 for the pair according to their website: 1" front & 3/4" rear. Picture in previous post. My understanding is that Suspension Techniques also offers the type of Rear bar that you are looking for. Both companies have very good reputations IMHO.

An excellent piece of advice!

The one at the top of the picture appears to be the front one. That one at the bottom looks like the kind that will require drilling the chassis to me. You're right, it shouldn't. But I guess it depends on your definition of "right". What is your definition? Size? Brand? Style of bar? [/list=1] Since your first post, I have done a bit of searching myself to see what is out there, and selection is much more limited than it was last time I was looking (about 15 yrs ago). You may have to compromise.

Hi Mark: I don't know how hard it is to find un-rusted, or less rusted Z's in your part of the country, but.............if all you are looking for is transportation and it doesn't HAVE to be Z, or if you have time to search and the possibility of another Z being found. I'd keep looking. In CA most folks would run from this one. JMO, naturally. Good luck in whatever you decide!

Hi Dave: Did they use the L24 block also, or an L28?

Wasn't that Ricardo Montalban (from Fantasy Island fame) that was pimping Chryslers with that "rich Corinthian leather" line?

You could be right about that Victor. I don't know the specifics on that one. I do know that to get the L24 up to 2.7L, Rebello uses a Maxima Diesel crankshaft. The engine retains the L24's higher revving, and has different power band charecteristics than an L28. and, Yes; it would be cheaper to just go with an L28 to get more power, but if you plan on building one out to 3.1L you will again be spending big bucks to accomplish this. Different strokes for different folks.

Rebello Racing can build an L24 out to 2.7 though you would pay big bucks to do this stuff. The E31 and E88 heads can be reworked to use the larger 280Z valves also, but again, it is pricey. IMO, going this route should only be done by professionals (Rebello, or Sunbelt, etc.) who really know L6 engines, and not attempted by do it yourselfers like us. Significant power can be made, but it's difficult to get everything done right. Mistakes can be disasterous. ($$) Experience in building these moidified engines is key.

From a California point of view, I say....... Uggh. IMO looks like Stage 2 cancer. Not fatal yet, but it needs to go under the knife for ANY chance of survival. PS, I know this is "picky", but if the owner doen't know the difference between leather and vinyl, I have to wonder what else he doesn't know about the car, or is misleading about.

I am only familiar with US spec S30's, but our cars do not have an "overflow". I would think that for ANY car to have a "overflow" vent to atmosphere for a gasoline tank would be a serious safety hazard. I agree with 26th-z, it sure sounds like a fuel vent hose that is broken. (which is not intended to vent to atmosphere, it vents to the Evap tank) If your car is leaking when being filled, I'd suspect that it dumps gas on the ground everytime you take off from a stop, also. You might save some gas money by getting this fixed.