Bambikiller240

I don't know if "TWM" actually has a name or is just TWM, but they are the company that ZTherapy purchases their air horns from. If I recall correctly, they are an English company. I've never heard of another company that imports these air horns, but I'd be really surprised if there aren't several places that cater to English or other sports cars that have their stuff. You might try to do a web search on TWM and see what comes up. Good Luck!

If your car is like the North American imported S30, you pull back on the TURN SIGNAL lever & the high beams come ON.............pull back again and the high beams go OFF Not exactly the way it is done on modern cars. OLD SCHOOL! :stupid: **EDIT: PS can I drive your car?**

A Stack of Phone books????????????

Thanks, Keith. I kinda thought that there would need to be an adapter as you describe. Carl

Yes, you could still mount a stock front bar with the modified mount. The only reason I mentioned it is that it will never be perfectly "stock" as in for a "concours" restoration. The mount is permanently altered. That's all. I LOVED my 1" Quickor front bar and 7/8" rear bar. The car had Bilstein Gas Struts as well, and cornered "flat as a pancake". Virtually no body roll at all.

What many folks do is to drill all the way through the frame rail from the bottom (right through the threads in the rail) all the way through the top of the rail, then you use LONG bolts that go all the way through the frame rail and secure the bolts with washers and nuts at the TOP side of the frame rail. That way the sway bar brackets are secured to the entire frame rail instead of by just the lower wall of the rail. Once you've done this there is no way to go back to the original method of mounting the brackets cause the thread s are gone.

Call an appraiser for a definative figure. From the looks of the car, it's worth much more than the average 240Z.

Whoa, didn't say that the front one is not reccomended, just that to ensure that your frame rails don't get ripped apart you need to modify the mounting. A 1" bar will do the same thing. I would not use anything larger that stock without modifying the mounts. Even a 1" bar is pretty stiff. Regarding the rear bar, YES the MSA bar is the kind that many folks don't like to use. The preferred type mounts to the brackets that Rear suspension is mounted to. (Flat metal brackets that hang down on either side of the diff.) The sway bars come with a bracket that replaces the stock ones. I believe that Suspension Techniques is one company that sells that type. I bought mine so long ago that I don't remember what brand it is.

2ManyZs: So does this short throw shifter just get stuck 1" further into the trans than the stock one or is the mounting point on the trans for the pivot moved in some way to account for the extra inch?

The one labled as front "looks" like an after-market one for a 240Z. As large diameter as it appears, I would modify the mounts as bars this big tend to wreck havoc with the front frame rails. These big bars transmit so much force to the frame rails that the rails eventually rip open. Not a good thing to have happen to your car! Not so sure about the rear one, though if it is for a 240Z, it is the type that some of us don't like to use because it would require drilling holes in the chassis to mount.

Usually when rear brakes are locked, it is because the Rear Wheel cylinder is buggered up (gummed up, or rusted up). My experience with rebuilt Master cylinders has been very poor. I quit buying them 20 years ago, now I only buy NEW when the need arises. I'd flush out the lines to the brakes with clean, fresh fluid, then bleed the system. Start by bleeding the master itself, the right rear, left rear, right front and left front.

The Cross member (actually called the Rear Motor mount, though it attaches the transmission to the body) on my 1972 240Z (mfg'd in 11/71) does not look anything like the Cross Member in your picture.

We unscrew the Gland Nut on top of the strut tube and pull the old strut cartridge out and put the upgrade cartridge unit in. Then replace the gland nut. Put the spring back on the suspension and re-install the whole thing You are going to want to take your strut cartridge out of the damaged strut tube and put it into the one you are going to install on your car. Otherwise you will have what ever crap strut cartridge is in the part you buy from the JY.

Only one post on your problem is necessary. If one of us can help we will. :beard:

He's not exagerating. I spent two days trying to get a spindle pin out. Finally I gave up and took it all to a machine shop with a 30 ton press, and a torch. $40 later it was separated. Not all of them will take that long, but it is one of, if not the most difficult jobs to do on an early Z car. Be forewarned! And from your most recent description, you need the strut housing assembly which includes the stub axle and wheel/axle bearings.

Before ya go carving up a glovebox you might want to consider that replacement gloveboxes for 240Z's are no longer available. Once you've carved it up, you're stuck with it forever. Carl (NOT ON MY CAR) S.

RATS! I was hoping that there WAS a product like that out there. It's a PITA to pull the wheel and crawl in the well for what should be a simple & quick job. Get some rest James, tomorrow is Monday :sick: :sick:

Drive a Zcar with them installed, and one with rubber bushings and you'll KNOW the difference in handling that they make. As for shear loads, it's the spindle pins and Inner Transverse link bolts that handle the shear. Just like the rubber bushings, there is no place for the bushings to "shear", since they are surrounded by steel. PS Everyone is welcome to their own opinion I'm not selling anything here, I'm relating personal experience gained over 28 years of owning, driving, modifying and maintaining 240Z's [/list=1]

The H4 headlights that I just installed on my car still require you to gain access from the rear (inside the wheel well) to change bulbs/headlight assemblies. All you can do from the front is AIM the headlight with the adjustment screws. Does anyone have a link to headlights where you can change the bulbs from the front, without going into the wheel well? If so, please post the link. Thanks

It's all good. :classic: If you hit something hard enough to bust the spindle pin, examine the Strut housing (contains the stub axle, axle bearings, and strut cartridge) VERY carefully to ensure that it was not damaged. These are very critical parts of your suspension. Failure at speed can be catastrophic. (even more than you experienced tonight!)

a 1977 280Z A-Arm MAY fit. I don't know for sure. But a 280ZX (first year model was 1979) has a completely different suspension and would NOT work on your 71Z

I'm not sure I understand which part you are referring to. There is a "spindle pin" which connects the "A-Arm" to the "Strut housing". The Strut Housing contains both the "strut cartridge" and the "stub axle". The stub axle is what you bolt the halfshaft onto to provide drive to the wheel. Hopefully it is just the spindle pin and the transverse link that are damaged.

If you will look carefully, you will see that the A-Arms are the same on both sides of your 71 Z. One is simply turned upside down from the other side. Any A-Arm from 70 thru 73 (AT LEAST) will be the same as on your car.

Oh, A WISE GUY! Actually, it was Shemp. Sorry, No cookie for you today! :stupid:

Yeah, in Texas, salt isn't going to be the issue, BUT, RUST still may be one. We don't have salted roads here in CAli, but all it takes is moisture for rust to form. Floor pans (inside and out); rocker panels, firewalls and frame rails can and do get rusted from a varienty of reasons including poorly applied undercoating, leaky weatherseals, even being parked in a grassy field for long periods of time can promote rust in Datsun chassis. When manufactured, they were not treated with much of a rust preventative. There are more than a few members here who have learned this lesson the hard ($$$$$$) way. There is no substitute for actually inspecting cars in person. Multiple cars. Inspecting more than one car will only cost you a bit of time, but it will ensure that you fully understand the differences in condition of cars for sale, and the value that is placed on them. Contrary to popular belief, not all cars with a price tag of $3000 (or any amount) will be in the same condition, some may be worth more, others will be worth less. "Looks" can be, and often are deceiving. There is no substitute for putting your hands on the car and poking around with your eyes wide open. EVERYWHERE.