Bambikiller240

That picture would make a great postage stamp.:cheeky:

Well, persistant anyway. Back in the late 70's I had a friend who had a copy that he lent me and I photocopied about half of it to reference when building out my first Z. When I got back into Z's in the late 90's I started looking for a copy, but I am TOO DAMN CHEAP to pay the prices I was finding on eBay which were typically in the $35 to $75 range. I missed a copy in poor condition (missing back cover and greasy pages, etc.) that went for $30, but I kept on looking. It took me over two years to find the bargain that I lucked into. Good Luck!

Keep a good eye on eBay. The copy of #1 that I bought was put up for auction by a "used book seller" who didn't know anything about the book except that it was old and about Z's. He put it up with a starting bid of $10 and a BUY IT NOW of $12.50, and I saw it less than two hours after the auction began. SCORE! $3 shipping and it is mine. Keep your eyes open! PS there are TWO versions of #1. One printed in the early 70's with 240 pages, and a later reprint of the same name with only about 170-180 pages.

These books pop up on eBay all the time. #1 tends to be a bit pricey for an old soft-cover book, but it can be had. #2 tends to sell cheaper than #1.

If you are using the air pressure fitting described in other posts to this thread, the injected air pressure will hold the valve closed just fine. If you insert rope or rubber hose as described in some other posts, the valve will not drop either.

"The seats are strapped in, the hardware for them has been removed to lighten the vehicle". YOU WILL NEED AN ENTRY SWITCH, S THE CAR IS SHAVED AND I ENTER THRU THE BACK. THERE IS NO HARDWARE FOR THE SEATS, THEY ARE RACING SEATS WITH SEAT BELTS HOLDING THEM IN AND HARNESS TO HOLD YOU AND A PASSENGER Is this guy (or the "builder") for real??????????????? SHEE-EYTE!! Sounds like the perfect vehicle in which to send Former CA Governor Gray Dufus out the door!

So then James, it seems that you are satisfied with this outcome. That is good. I'm glad that they did this much for you. Still, it is too bad that they were not interested enough in making you a satisfied customer that they wouldn't actually do what they had agreed to do in the first place. This does say something for the shop, but IMHO is doesn't say much. "Here's your car, IC, and money back, now go away". Just my $.02 Carl

SUre, if you have the parts and stuff and can weld, it is cheaper, and the way to go; but not all of us have welding equipment, and/or air fittings lying around. One is no better than the other, just that one or the other would be easier for different folks. Different strokes for Different Folks

Should be able to buy the spark plug/air line adapter without going through the bother of welding up your own. Check around some before you go through the trouble.

They can and will make lines for 240Z's. I bought Rear Brake Bridge lines for 6/72 to 1976 Z from them in Stainless Steel and they came out very nice.

Looks pretty nice to me! Congrats!

Hey, That's my bridge!:devious: I just bought it on eBay for a steal of a price considering what it is.

They are widely considered as one of the best rebuilders of SU's in the USA. Their work is not cheap, but you get what you pay for.........

It COULD be a Sppok but if it is , it's HIGHLY MODIFIED. Also, since the photo is of a car in Japan, I think it is more likely that it is a completely different piece.

Look at the "50 latest uploads" to thje gallery, you'll find more pics there

The picture in the first post of this thread does not look anything like the BRE Spooks we have in the USA.

Thanks, I'll look into that. When my current battery dies, I'm goingto switch to a Group 24F battery so I can get the Positive lead out from under the fender and will be wanting custom cables to accomplish that. Carl

I belonged to the SF Region of SCCA in the early 80's. Quit after 3 years due to all of the politics and BS that I encountered.

For some reason the pictures won't come through when I view that webpage.

So, where do you get high quality gold stuff like this to make your own battery cables?

Only you can decide for yourself what value/satisfaction you can get from owning a car in the condition that yours is in. Fabrication of the Tension/Compression rod boxes is EXTREMELY skilled work and will take a lot of time to do correctly. Here in CA, a quote of $2400 would be considered a bargain for that kind of work. Now having said that, I DO understand the "sticker shock" that you are feeling. Work like this can certainly eat up a budget in a hurry. This is one reason it is better to start out with a solid chassis that is as rust-free as possible, and why rust-free cars sell for higher prices than cars that need this kind of work.

No, Power Steering Fluid is NOT the same as fork oil. It MAY have a similar viscosity, but is substantially different. You might try using it, but I don't understand why you'd want to. Fork oil is SO easy to get, and works well. Just my $.02 Carl

Have you pulled the locking tab out of the holder for the connection between the line and hose? Usually folks will leave the mounting tab alone until they have the connection loosened. If you did remove it, you'll need a wrench on the hard line and one on the hose. Spray Kroil, Liquid Wrench or whatever you use for penetrating oil and let it soak into the connection for a while. Use a 10mm flare-nut wrench on the hard line fitting, and BE CAREFUL. You don't want to ruin the flats on the fitting. PS this is a common place for the clutch system to develop a leak. Clutch Hoses are cheap, but you'll probably not find a replacement at your local parts store.

James: I can sure understand your feelings. On the few occasions that I have taken my car to shops, I have done as you and spelled everything out in clear terms as to what I expect done and not done. THEN, I leave the car with them and sweat bullets all day long wondering what I will discover when I arrive to pick the car up. Sadly I have rarely been completely satisfied with the results and/or explanations as to why things were not done as I specified them to be done. The pipes and hose COULD replaced with the right stuff fairly easily (IF they chose to do so) couldn't it? Are they refusing to make it right for you? But that hole.............Well, lets just say if MY car had an extra hole gouged out of it for no reason; SOMEBODY would have my size 13 boot embedding in their arse for a looong time.:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: (metaphorically speaking)

I Cali we have an agency called the California Bureau of Automotive Repair where customers can file complaints regarding shoddy repair work like this. I've never had to file a complaint, so I don't know how much they do for the customer, but that is where I would start bitching if the shop will not make it right to your satisfaction. PS Why did they cut a hole in the opposite side of your radiator support from where the hole was needed?