Bambikiller240

Ok, We got Oil Pressure, Engine Fired and all appears well! I pulled the Oil Pump and disassembled it. I coated the rotor and sleeve that it "rotates" in with some wheel bearing grease, then re-assembled the pump. Lastly, I filled the pump with oil and re-installed. Only took about 20-25 seconds of spinning the motor on the starter before oil was squirting out of the cam oiler tube ports and the oil guage was reading 30-40 psi. Got better pressure as soon as I fired the motor up. Someone needs to tell the publisher of the "How to Rebuild Datsun/Nissan Engines" book to at least mention how critical it is to PRIME THE FRICK'IN OIL PUMP in the next printing of this otherwise very useful book. Sheesh, what a "minor" bit of information to leave out! :stupid:

I had a leak at the rear of the engine in this same area for over 3 years. Water stains on the block at the rear near the fitting for the heater hose. It definately came from the head gasket, but only put water out to the atmosphere, no water in the cylinders or oil. Compression on all cyls in the 155 to 165 range. I retorqued the head to no avail, so after worrying about it for 3 years, I elected to pull the head and replace the timing components at the same time. 150K on the motor, so it was about time. I ended up having the short block rebuilt (bored .5 mm over) at the same time, even though it was not necessary to stop the leak. Just got the engine fired up two days ago.

Aren't those rags just there to plug up the intake and exhaust openings to the cylinder head so bugs and crap don't get into the head? Looks just like the engine I pulled out of Bambikiller a couple months ago.

The clutch master cylinder for my 72 340Z does NOT have any bleeder screw. All bleeding of the clutch system is done at the slave cylinder.

I'm sorry to hear of the passing of your friend/dog Mira. We sure do fall in love with them, don't we? She is in a better place now, though that is little comfort to those left behind. Cherish the memories of the good times with her.

The book that you mentioned will tell you all about the ENGINE itself, but will not help you with the carbs. Get a Haynes manual and/or a Nissan FSM (Factory Service Manual) Removing the carbs is fairly simple. You drain the cooling system about half way, then disconnect: the air cleaner housing vac hose from the distributor two fuel hoses the throttle linkage operating rod 4 nuts & washers on each carb

I'm sure that if you email Panasport with a request, they can provide contact info for one or more of their vendors who can quote retail prices for you.

The box that I have shows two addresses: C/O 7425 Fulton Ave North Hollywood, CA 91605 and Nissan Motor Corp 3575 ?cholls Ferry Portland, OR

Sorry, can't help with information on the correct needles for your carbs. However, I wanted to clarify that the Hitachi manufactured carburetors on our Z cars are not "ripoffs", as they were manufactured under license granted by SU. (for a significant sum of $ no doubt). So, they can be considered "SU copies" but they are certainly NOT "SU ripoffs".

Hi Keith Yeah, mine looks like yours. It ends at the Strut Towers. I've attached the Picture that Carl Beck posted with the part that is MISSING on my covers outlined in RED . Mine are listed as for a 280Z 2+2 One of the two boxes that I have has "Datsun P/N 99990-0034" printed on it. It is very faint after all these years. Mine also does not have the "hooks" mentioned by Becko. To attach to the hatch there are "snaps" that you mount to the hatch with a screw. The cover then "snaps" onto the hatch.

Naoshi San: I sent you a Private Message earlier this evening, but it does not show in my message tracking. Did you receive my message? Carl

The recession started on Clinton's watch for sure, but Ol' G.W. hasn't done SQUAT to remedy the situation. There is plenty of blame to be shared by BOTH administrations, (like 99.9% of all politicians) both B.C. and G.W.B. are as crooked as a dog's hind leg.

If you don't have any leaks, just refill with gear oil. If it leaks at the front or rear, change the appropriate seal. The gear oil is added via the plug near where the speedo cable is installed. Good Luck, Carl

So, should we equate Geo W, with Bill Clinton, and Ronald Reagan, and Jimmy Carter, and FDR, and James Garfield, and Geo. Washington?

Maybe I could be an honorary Aussie? Now THAT would be grand!

Oh, so I'm not the only guy who has done this. Sure wished that I had a helper that evening to get the damn thing off of me. :stupid: :mad:

This is a great idea, but only applies IF the car is complete. When you have the engine, trans, and suspension off the car; it will weigh so little that a man can very easily knock it off the stands, especially the fron end of the chassis. Been there, almost done that!

Should be available from most any source of Z parts. I'm not sure exactly what year they switched to the internally regulated, but there is a technical artical that I copied from another site in our Technical Article section that describes the upgrade to this type of alternator. It requires only a minor modification to the existing wiring (adding a diode between two wires). Good Luck!

except for the fugley S31's and Z32's and Z33's which only share the Z name for marketing (read $$$$) purposes. They do not fit into the spirit or design parameters of the original product. Apples and Oranges. Nuff said.

I have two of those toneau covers still in the factory boxes. The ones that I have are listed as for 280Z 2+2's. I don't have the part number shown on the box with me as I'm at work. The clips that go over a post are for the strut towers and snaps are mounted to the bottom of the hatch to connect to the stretch cord end of the cover. The mirror shown may have been a factory authorized option, but they were also available as aftermarket units. Periodically they will show up on eBay, though most are in rather poor condition and missing the plastic pads that protect the door paint from the mirror hardware. If someone is interested in ONE of the two sets that I have (listed as fitting 280Z 2+2).......I could be persuaded to part with one for a fair price. Just send a PM my way PS I have the installation instruction too and will try to copy and forward to Carl Beck if I can get an address for him. (no digital camera yet)

Good to hear that you didn't get squashed by it.

It is probable that the kit is designed for cars that have an internally regulated alternator, unlike the 240 and 260Z's which have an external voltage regulator. You may need to switch to an internally regulated Alt when using this kit. Check with Painles's customer support.

Save some for me. I just assembled my rebuilt engine and I can't get oil pressure! :stupid: New pump, etc everything else works, but no pressure (yet). guess I'mm pulling the pump on Wednesday.

Oh OK, but isn't it texasz that wants to swap the fuse boxes?

Which picture(s) are you referring to? Mark's pic or?