Bambikiller240

I don't know if it applies here, but I've always been told that you should not mix Petrolium greases/oils with Synthetic Greases/Oils.

Enrique shared a good idea with me when I rebuilt my Wiper System last summer. Clip an old fashioned wooden clothes pin to the wiper pivot post when you are ready to test the wiper movement. They will illustrate the movement to ensure it is in the correct direction without (possibly) sacraficing your cowl and hood.

Lance: I agree that POR should be applied after welding. I cannot see any benefit to applying it before welding. Sturdy welds are foremost in my mind as well. Does the weld through primer remain after welding or does it burn off in the process leaving just the zinc?

This show will again be on The History Channel in the USA tomorrow SATURDAY APRIL 23RD, 2005 AT 7AM PACIFIC TIME ( 10AM EASTERN TIME)

It used to be (at least it was a couple 2-3 years ago). I'm not sure if it still is held there.

Could you please post it in Word please. I don't have MS Excel at home. Thank you.

Lance: I'm not a welder (unfortunately), so maybe this is a dumb question.......but since POR must be in contact with seasoned (rusty) metal. or metal treated with "Metal Ready" (phosphoric acid), wouldn't the "weld through primer" be a problem, since it would/might/could (?) prevent the POR from contacting the metal that it must contact in order to do it's job properly? Just asking. Carl

I know, Will. I just wanted to be sure that any newbies reading the thread wouldn't faint thinking that the quoted prices were "per unit" pricing. I want one of those "galss" bottles. Do they come in Redhead? I have room in the garage!

Never tried installation on a "sideways" Z. I just laid rags on the bottom of the well to protect the paint on my "right side up" Z. Don't think I or anyone else was calling you or your methods dumb.

These would appear to be prices for CASES rather than single, individual containers, but yes it illustrates that there are large size containers available.

It's not the body lines that makes the difference, it's the locking mechanism No one said that. He's looking to use early 260 (same as a 240) doors on a 280Z

But, But,. But, it has "240" and an "X" in the name...........................aren't they all the same?

Early 260 doors would be the same as 240Z doors. I doubt they'll fit.

Will you share the prescription with us as well as her contact info? It would be nice to have that as a reference material.

"this is off-topic" AND Yawn, yawn, yawn Back to Z's ! !

Yep. BTDT. Isn't necessary, in fact it would be a royal PITA to have to do that. Whe removing, undo the screws that secire the wiper pivots to the chassis, push the pivots down into the well, rotate the the pivots (BOTH) inward toward the center of the car. Remove the bolts that secure the wiper motor to the chassis, then move the whole assembly (motor and pivots) toward driver isde of car (HLS30-U) until you can lift passenger side pivot and motor upward, now start pulling the assembly up and back towards the passenger side until it all comes out. "Installation is the reverse".

better save two for yourself. They don't grow on trees you know!

I try to crawl under there after work and see if I can find that wire on my 72.

The first step I'd suggest is to clean ALL of the connectors to the headlights (up front at the bottom of the radiator support) I doubt it will healp with the switch issue, but it could make a big difference in the brightness of the headlights, and may also help with the one light that doesn't go to BRIGHT. As for the switch issue, I'll leave that to others to advise since I'm not a real wiz at electrical. But it sounds like it could be the "brights" switch is dirty/carbonized.

Doesn't the 1991 240Z have a Mr. Nuke "Flux Capacitor" for a Power Supply?

OK, Thanks.

Gary; Would you mind sending the pictures to me also? I believe that you have my email. Thanks.

The book you are referring to is the "How to Modify Datsun Engines & Chassis", and your info is correct regarding the two versions. The original book has 240 pages and was published in 1973, the Reprint has only ~180 pages. Just keep your eye on eBay. Two years ago I found an original HTMDE&C book (in extremely good & clean condition) being auctioned by a "book seller" (that is a person who sells books, not a Datsun fanatic) who listed it with a opening bid of $10 and a Buy-It-Now of $12.50 + $4 shipping. Obviously, I snagged it immediately. It had only been listed for about 50 minutes when I bought it. The Frank Honsowetz authored "How to Modify Datsun/Nissan Engines" book is a completely different book.

How many "breats" can you offer Chris for his car?

There are several "motor" books which are useful to have. This is one of them. As the title says it covers a variety of modifications. There is another book called How to Rebuild Datsun/Nissan OHC Engines", which is more geared to stock rebuilds (and very minor modifications).