Bambikiller240

If the rust is only on the outer edge of the caliper piston (not sure what you mean by "puck") it is normal and will not be a problem. ------------------------ Only a few dealers carry ANY parts for 240/260/280Z's. Courtesy Nissan in Richardson, TX being the largest and best known. Not sure if they have rebuilt calipers available. Discount IS available for Z Club members! http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/ MSA can be slow in getting out catalogs. Post office is ALWAYS slow in delivering them. I just ordered a complete clutch set from MSA on Thurs, it arrived on Sat. w/o special shipping charges. Discount IS available for Z Club members! http://www.zcarparts.com/ Victoria British also sells Z parts, but their customer service is not very good and shipping has been slower than MSA in my experiences with them. Their catalog took a month to get to me. No discount available. http://www.victoriabritish.com/

The solution to most problems (in cars, and life in general) can be found in the tiny details. On to your next project.

Well, keep in mind that as the brake pads wear, the seal is going to move to make up for the material that has worn off the brake pad. This may move the seal into the area that is rusted if I'm understanding your description of the location of the rust. If it does, that may cause a problem when/if it happens.

Can't tell if the mirror is original from the picture (too close of a view) but the twist knob is NOT original. As mentioned, it should have SUN on one side and STAR on the other side.

If memory serves me, the clamp and "bumper" on the steering rack was a NISSAN issued FIX for a problem that was encountered on the early versions of the steering rack. It is meant to limit FLEX of the rack which was causing a bind in the steering system. If you still have the parts, you might think about putting it back where it belongs. Safety first, and all that.

AIR, The hose from the inlet that runs down the length of the block and goes to the firewall and into the heater has a metal pipe "T" (actually looks like a "Y") fitting that branches to a pipe that goes around the back of the engine to connect to the rear of the intake manifold. The other hose coming OUT of the heater, comes through the firewall and goes into the rear of the cylinder head.

If it works good, you could probably sell a few on eBay for a decent profit.

SU's don't hold much oil. A few cc's at best. You won't "see" the oil, but it should show up on the dip sticks, there are lines on the stick to mark the level of oil that should be in there. Lack of oil will cause the piston in the SU's dome to rise too quickly causing harsh throttle response, and probably more that I don't know about.

The choke lever assembly mounts to the underside of the console (NOT THE BODY). It is common for the plastic mounting bosses on the console to snap off if too much pressure is applied, especially after 30 years of use and time which does weaken the plastic. There isn't a good way to repair this damage that I know of, and I don't believe that the consoles are available from the factory anymore. Even when they were available it was an almost $200 "fix" to replace the console. Look at the lever assembly carefully and you'll probably see the mounting bosses still attached to the assembly, when they should be attached to the console itself.

Those mounting "ears" or bosses (at least mine anyway) do have a slight angle to them. It would be nearly impossible for them to get bent without you doing some serious hammering on them. If the original calipers fit and the car rolled without the calipers scraping on the rotors.........something has changed. Did the car's brakes operate normally (even if worn) prior to you disassembling them? I would be amazed if you were able to have bent those ears without realizing that you were doing it. Are you sure that you have installed the "races" for the wheel bearings FULLY into place. If not, that might offset the hub from where it should be located on the spindle. I'm grasping at straws here, but I have to believe that if the brakes operated before you took them apart, the mounting bosses could not be bent unless you took a hammer to them. I have to suspect that something else is amiss.

If anyone attends the show in Fremont today, please tell us about it and post some photos if you have any. Though I live only 10 miles from the event, I'm stuck at work today.

Well, I'm not convinced it is not the caliper just yet. I cannot imagine why the parts person would not allow you to "borrow" back the cores if you let him hold the new calipers, or if he made you leave a cash core charge with him as a guarentee of their return to the store. I still think that I'd return the new calipers and get my money and cores back. Reinstalling the cores should tell you if you have done something wrong. I don't know your parts guy, but many of the ones that I encounter don't impress me with their knowledge of cars, especially older cars. I'd be considering acquiring my calipers from a different source if the cores go back onthe car properly.

See the following LINK for MotorSport Auto. One of the largest retailers of Z-Car parts in the USA.

My early 72 came from the factory without a Thermo switch in that location. It just has the same nipple fitting that is on the front end of the intake. Water constantly circulates through the manifold/carbs (or it would, if I hadn't blocked it off at both ends!) ***EDIT*** Err, I made a mistake, there is a Thermo Valve at the rear of the Intake Manifold on my car. I didn't recognize it as such. Sorry for any confusion I caused.

Well, mebbe you still are the ONLY one with a ZX that we allow here. I think blitzkraig just stuffed the T5 into his 71 Z when he rebuilt the engine. **EDIT** Oh, I see, ICICE9 has a Cruiser too. nevermind! (looks like another one snuck into the woodpile!)

That is certainly true. Tokiko Blues are performance struts, though not as sophisicated as the adjustable Illuminas. As I was posting I was thinking more on the lines of KYB's or Monromatic struts as less than "performance" (non-adjustable)parts.

That would be on the balance tube assy, not on the intake manifold itself. The hole at the rear of a 1972 E88 Intake would be for water to flow through passages in the intakes and the 3 screw SU's. Late 72's might have the thermostat valve, but early 72 Z's would just have a "nipple".

Good thing I checked this thread. Didn't recognize your new alias. :classic:

RULE #1 Performance costs $. How much "performance" do you want? If you have stock springs, and/or don't want maximum performance, you can get by without adjustable struts (I do) but if you want PERFORMANCE, you will want the adjustable struts and stiffer springs (maybe even coil-overs), PU bushings, fat sway bars, etc. It's a tough choice, but ultimately you are the only one who can decide; based on your budget, desires, etc.

Should be a fun ride when you are done. Keep us updated and take lots of pictures!

My bet is on the Caliper being the problem also. It is hard to tell from the picture, but I'll ask anyway. Is the rotor "relatively" centered inside the caliper? Or is it WAY off to one side? The reason I ask is that I'm wondering if they may have given you a caliper for use with vented rotors which I don't believe would be compatible with non-vented rotors. I could be way off base with that idea, but as 2ManyZ's says if it wasn't like that before (and you have verified correct assembly).........don't alter anytrhing. It almost has to be the Caliper. If you have the old caliper, I'd take some detailed measurements and see how they compare.

Are you sure all of that "stuff" will fit in a Z engine bay? Not to sound negitive, but it looks like it just barely fits in a T-Bird.

I cannot imagine that FLAT-TOPS could EVER be "an easier thing to deal with" than FI, or Round-Top SU's for that matter. VIrtually no one wants those crappy carbs (commonly referred to as BOAT ANCHORS) because they routinely cause drivability problems and also cause poor performance. A price for them?....Nothing! Zero, Zip, Nada. A proper operating FI system requires little maintainance and meters fuel far more precisely than ANY carb setup, but if you want carbs, I'd go with Round-Top SU's, or Webers, or anything but FLAT-TOPS.

See the Top of Tube that houses the shock (strut cartridge) there is a bit Nut. Some actually have a hex shape, others (the original, i believe) have a round shape with several notches around the circumference. If you have the round type, get a large regular screwdriver and a hammer. Place the business end of the screwdriver in a notch and use the hammer to apply force to unscrew the nut. Use penetrant to help lubricate the threads and make loosening easier. If you have the replacement cartridges already there should be a new nut in the box for each. Do you have a shop manual? This process should be shown very clearly in most manuals.

YES, It is the mixture nut. earlier models of the Su's had a Hex shape to the mixture nut. If your nuts don't have "flats" then; as the article indicates, use 1/6 of a turn of the nut when the term "Flat" is mentioned