Bambikiller240

Chloe at www.midwestz.com may be able to beat their price, but here you go : MSA SITE

Looking from the drivers side of the car, the #1 position on the distributor is at 8:00. If the rotor is poointing anywhere else (and it certainly sounds like it is) SOMETHING is wrong. Step one is to make sure that the timeing marker on the front cover is pointing to the deepest notch on the crankshaft pulley., and make sure the two cam lobes for the #1 cylinder are pointing UP, then look at the distributor. The Rotor should be pointing at 8:00. That is the way it SHOULD be. Get that manual!!!

Rick, I gather that "she who must be obeyed" was not looking over your shoulder when you typed that statement. Rick? Are you still there? Rick? Hello, Rick? Anybody seen Rick lately? Gulp, maybe she was looking on when it was typed!

Sounds like you have the spark plug wiring wrong. #1 spark plug position is at 8PM on my distributor. May also have the distributor driveshaft installed off by a tooth. I agree with the person who reccomended that you get a FACTORY Service manual. Chiltons (I think you said that's what you have) is not a very good manual for these cars.

Chloe at www.midwestz.com should be able to get them for you. If not, MSA in LA used to have them, & may still have them.

Unless something has changed on the Pertronix website in the last two months, I think you will find that they do not make a Pertronix II kit for the L6 Nissan engine. I'm completely happy with my regular Pertronix, though if they do end up offering the "II" model for an L6 I will consider purchasing it.

In my neighborhood, a car with a fuel vent to atmosphere would end up as a bonfire in short order. Not doubting what you are saying, but it seems a :stupid: design IMHO. Though I don't like the vent system we have, I'm glad that Nissan got their S**T together somewhat. Too many hooligans and Foolio's around here would siphon your tank dry if they didn't want to watch your car go up in flames.

1971 US Models of 240Z had an arrow on the timing case, and several notches on the crank dampner/pulley. The deepest notch (first one on your left when standing in FRONT of the engine) is ZERO, next is 5 degrees before TDC, next is 10 BTDC, etc.

Yup!

Yup! As sanitary as the rest of the car appears, that sure stood out for me as a glaring mistake in judgement by whomever designed and "executed" (dare I say) the modifications.

Some of the racers use Autometer guages. Sorry I don't have a link, but try a web search on Google or another search engine.

That sure is a VERY nice looking car, and I *think* that I'd love to own one like it. With one notable concern.........Having both the battery AND the fuel tank in the trunk, in such close proximity to each other would scare the Sh*t out of me. I'd have to put that battery in an enclosure before I'd take it out of the driveway! My $.02

After having made sure that the engine is in full tune, if the symptom still persists; you may need to look into the condition of the Anti-Backfire Valve which is part of the emissions controls (if your car still has them installed).

Guess it is an individual choice, but I really like the way I can do just about anything on my car with only a few different sized wrenches or sockets. 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm will let you undo just about anything. Oh sure there are "other sized" bolts on the car but for common work these 5 will allow you do do most maintainance. For high corrosion areas like the fender bolts mentioned or the Thermostat housing, I would consider S/S, but FOR ME, I would only change those that I would get a great benefit frm changing. Bolts of the correct size (not in S/S) can be obtained through Lawson Products.

Stock means Stock. What many have suggested is to only make changes that can be undone easily. That would preclude changes to an different engine and trans and new suspension, UNLESS you plan to maintain the old engine/trans in good running order by keeping the entire engine and transmission internals well lubricated including the metal parts and seals etc. so that it could be dropped into the car at a moments notice and be driven immediately without any worries. What you are describing would (by most people) be considered as MAJOR changes to a car.

No sealer should be necessary.

Libre Wheels auction ended early this morning.........No Bids, No Sale.

Ah, I see. So then part of the problem is sellers with a short supply of brain cells. :stupid: Some folks are their own worst enemy. Very sad that some people will fall for stuff like this. It does, however go a ways to explaining how certain politicans get elected. Glad that someone like Gary (beandip) is around to save their bacon, and start the education process.

I hear what you're saying but there is a great way to stop it from continuing. We start prosecuting the local people acting as agents for the foreign crooks as accessories to the crime. When that happens, the supply of people willing to take on this kind of work without practicing due diligence and taking the necessary steps to ensure the financial instruments (check, bank draft, whatever) are valid will disappear. If this is "known scam" that happens frequently, then IMO, the local agents have an obligation to go the extra mile to ensure that a legal transaction occurs. $.02

Civil Servants my A$$!:sick: Why am I not surprised? No wonder people pull stunts like this, it's because they can get away with it!

Pick the muffler of your choice (Borla, Dynomax, Flowmaster, or??) and have a local muffler shop that does high quality work build you a mandrel bent custom 2.5 inch dia. system. If you need the "Y" pipe from the exhaust manifold, it is available from Motorsport Auto, or Victoria British, or maybe even Nissan (not sure about Nissan).

In a Z that I owned a few years back, I had a noise that occured when I drove over a rough railroad crossing. I would hear a kind of "Thump and Rattle" that turned out to be the spring-type support hanger for the right-side Hand brake cable (from the "U-shaped bracket to the right rear brake assembly) being a bit stretched out and allowing the cable to hit other parts of the car when the suspension was compressed on that side of the car.

I vote for keeping it very close to original. You have a great start with the car that you found. It would be a pity to drastically alter a "SURVIVOR Z". Mild mods such as 2Many mentioned wouldn't hurt, but anything major should be avoided IMHO.

With a price like that, I would be afraid to leave a car with them mounted unattended for more than two minutes. Might even have to electrify the chassis.

Do you have a link to a place that sells this stuff? Any specs for us to compare the product to Dynamat?