Bambikiller240

It does not matter what order they are adjusted, only that all intakes end up with the correct gap, and all exhausts end up with the correct gap.

Sequence does NOT matter! So long as the "nose" (pointy end of the cam lobe) is pointing UP, you can adjust that valve. I start at the front of the engine (Cylinder #1) and adjust the intake AND exhaust valves, then rotate the cam to the proper location for Cylinder #2 and adjust BOTH valves for it, then move to #3, #4, #5, #6 cylinders. There are only two liquids in an engine that isn't running, so it's either oil or water bubbles. Only oil should be in the "bottom end" so I hope it IS oil.

Yep, E-Brake = Hand Brake When the Diff was replaced, did you (or whomever) replace or examine the rubber/steel insulator mount for damage? It's a common weak point. Also maybe something is loose there, like bolts that attach the diff to the insulator, or the bolt that mounts the insulator to the chassis mounting bar? As stated before, ....there really isn't much in the back of the car that is centrally located that can make noise, except the diff and the spare tire. Maybe the spare tire isn't tightly connected to the well that it sits inside?

Hi Rick: I wonder if your front differential mount is failing/failed? Usually when they do fail you get the clunk when the clutch is engaged on take off from a stop, but there really isn't much in the back of the car that is centrally located that can make noise. Just a thought. Oh, sometimes the E-brake cables can flop around and make noise when going over bumps. They are hung by spring-like retainers from the chassis.

Probably 8mm X 1.25. Many, Many bolts are of that size.

Mike: He's referring to the "Post" button on the Bravenet MAP page. He's trying to post his location onto the map that James set up through Bravenet, not a POST button on Classic Z Cars.

It looks like some kind of aftermarket rear sway bar, but I do not know who mfg'd it or for what models of Z. Sorry I can't be of any help.

Hi Dave: Good to know it turned out to be something that wasn't too serious. Talk to ya later! Carl

Errrr, Well, actually I did make that mistake once.........ONCE. I spent 3 years tearing a Z apart and rebuilding it completely. Built it exactly the way I wanted it, no expense spared. I was lucky enough to drive and enjoy it for 3.5 years before I was forced to sell it due to some financial issues that befell me. Due to a variety of circumstances it took another 12 years before I was in a position to buy another. BTDT I like girls for "sexy"; and Z's for "thrills".

It's just you.

Toke, Toke,.........Like..........Far out man!................Toke, Toke.

Geez, you don't want MUCH do ya! Only remote you'd get in most guys house would be one to your OWN TV! DITTVNK (Double income TWO TV's No Kids)

Completely agree with you Enrique. I always disconnect the battery before working on electrical stuff. Learned the hard way a long time ago about that one The only type of connectors that I'd install for the AMP guage would be ones with positive lock mechanisms to ensure that they cannot disconnect due to vibration, human error, etc.

OK Thanks. I saw the pictures. I am interestd in how the battery cables enter the box and how the box is mounted to the chassis.

Pictures? Any Pictures?

Great idea! I recently bought a spare FUEL/AMP guage and it arrived with about 4" of the wiring still connected. Good thing I didn't toss the wires, as they will come in handy now! Thanks!

In the USA there was (is) a fuel vapor recovery tank behind the right rear plastic panel (interior of the car) and it connects to a pipe that runs through the trans tunnel to the "Flow Guide" valve in the engine compartment.

Yep, this is why careful and exact trimming and test fitting BEFORE you get to the adhesive application stage is critical to a nice result. Exact placement and and extra pair of hands to help would be a real advantage when it comes time for final installation.

OK

IUt's not quite out in the open. What did I say to offend you?

Hmmm. US240Z's post is gone from the thread. Did he delete it? Don't be afraid to speak up here! We DO NOT bite!

Hello Christa: First of all, sorry to hear about your Mom's passing Second of all, what is a "DINK" for those of us who are clueless? Lastly, welcome to our little corner on the net. Carl (& three cats)

The interior roof lining (headliner, here in the US) is held in place with adhesive. I don't know if it was sprayed on or brushed on at the factory, but one of the people that I know who have replaced the material on their 240Z's opted to use spray-on adhesive. The material is first trimmed and trial fit, then the interior of the roof and the material back is sprayed with the adhesive, which is then allowed to dry a bit and become real tacky. then the material is CAREFULLY positioned. Extreme care must be taken here as you only get one chance to apply it properly. My friend then used pieces of 1/4 inch plywood with a towel in between the wood and the roof material and wedged wooden poles from the floor to the plywood to apply a light constant pressure to hold the material in place overnight while the adhesive dried fully. The new material is still there after almost 3 years, so I guess it worked fine for him. PS: he bought the replacement piece of material on eBay from Troy at Too Intense Restorations (one of our club suporters)

Care to provide any examples of what you are referring to as "the know it all condescending people who like to try to impress otheres of there great knowledge and it makes me gag". I've never seen any of that. (maybe I'm one of the ones you're referring to?) Just remember, we all have opinions, and when you ask questions we will answer with our opinons and experiences. If you disagree with the answers provided, you are welcome to do so; but that does not alter the validity of the answers given from our perspective.

OK, I give up; Whatthe hellis OZDAT????????????????