Bambikiller240

"God Save the Queen!"

My tools are about 75% Craftsman, 15% Mac Tools, and 10% Snap-On. Never had any problems with any of them either. A few odds and ends of other brands, and my toolbox is a Craftsman as well.

Yeah, I could use the $70 towards the electric fan I want to add. Some folks on the mail list have suggested a 280Z P/P and Disc. But they don't mention whether you have to use a 280Z T.O. Bearing and/or Collar with the 280 P/P and Disc. I'd hate to use the wrong parts and have to take the sucker apart again. Anyone have experience with using 280Z P/P and Disc on a 240Z?

OUCH!

Hi Steve: Now, this is what I was told. I don't know it for a fact myself. I was told that the stiffer springs installed in a Stock Oil Pump change the point where the pressure relief valve opens. ONLY. So you get standard volumn of oil at a higher pressure. The Turbo Oil Pump actually has a larger (taller height, not diameter) rotor so that it pumps a greater volumn of oil at the standard oil pressure. FWIW, Carl

Surely (Shirley ) you know that a bonnet is a Hood (at least in the US)? I'm guessing that you were impersonating a "maintainance ignorant" car owner with that inquiry? Yes?

Hi Everyone: I'm getting ready to install a rebuilt L24 in my car and I'd like to get your ideas on whether I should used a stock Nissan OEM clutch assembly or should I go with a Centerforce I assembly. The car will be a street only car, but will see some "spirited" driving. Does anyone use the Centerforce I setup, and how do you like it? Is it significantly better than the stock OEM assembly? Thanks in advance for any information you care to share on this. Thank you, Carl

I have a N36 Intake manifold that I'd be willing to trade to someone for an E88 Intake manifold that is in similar good condition. I don't really need it and I'd be just as happy with an E88 for my car. If anyone is interested, send me a PM. ********EDIT********* The offered N36 Intake is no longer available. Traded it for a E88 today 7-13-2003

Hi Mark: I saw that auction also. I couldn't justify the $60+ that it went for, but I'd sure like to get one at a semi-reasonable price. Have you emailed the seller to inquire if HE made it, or if he can share the source. Once the unit is designed, making copies shouldn't be too difficult or expensive/time consuming. If we could find a source, maybe we could get together a bulk buy and get a deal on 10 or more units? Just a thought.

I think the current forum for seeking parts works just fine, to a point. Anyone with the desire to search for needed parts knows (or should be able to figure out) which forum has PARTS FOR SALE and can scroll through the posts at leisure for whatever they need. Similarly, they can also find the PARTS NEEDED forum and post a "wish list" for others to view. What needs to happen to improve the forum(s), is the same thing that would need to happen to make any of the ideas for a list being tossed out here to function successfully. PEOPLE NEED TO UPDATE WHAT THEY ARE OFFERING, AND WHAT THEY STILL NEED! Until that happens there will be duplication of effort, and people annoyed at items that are no longer available for sale still being offered by other people. Hopefully I don't sound like a grump, but y'all need to do your own research to find the parts that you need. This is part of the process and part of the fun ("the thrill of victory" for me anyway)of restoring/maintaining my Z. The parts are not going to drop into your lap like manna from heaven. As 26th Z (or was it MikeW?) has mentioned, we have the whole internet at our disposal and the stuff is out there for YOU AND ME to find if we make the effort. Postings like 240Z240Z240Z did with his discovery of the Trico Windsheild washer pump are truely golden nuggets of information that we should be grateful to him for sharing. BUT, he has done his part, he posted the information in a public forum. If you are interested in it, copy it to your own files or do a search for "windsheild washer pumps" on our site and you'll find the information sitting there waiting for you to use. I recently asked for help (on this site) with an oddball washer for my crank pulley dampner, and within a day I had several offers from kind members to provide me with what I needed, and I'm very grateful for the response. I doubt these folks would have bothered to list the item as available, but they leapt at the chance to help someone. Most of us will do the same for you if we have what you need. SEEK AND YE SHALL FIND, MY BROTHERS & SISTERS! Pastor Carl hurriedly leaves the pulpit and ducks for cover.

Availability and Prices will change over time. That is going to be a big chore to maintain accurate current information. Too much to bother with OMHO.

I just received Rick's invitation to read this thread, and wouldn't you know it...........Enrique (EScanlon) and Keith (2ManyZs) have just about summed up my opinions on the situation. Between : the wankers who don't know or care how a vehicle should be maintained the wankers who believe they are "mechanics" because they can read a computer screen or error code device telling them to replace "this" or "that" and if that doesn't fix the problem, "replace something else" until the code goes away, or the wallet runs dry. the wankers who think they were put on earth with a license to "mine" the public for profits based on un-needed / unwarranted repairs [/list=a] the real honest to gosh "Master Mechanic" has largely disappeared because he cannot compete and make a living by using his skills to diagnose and problem and fix it, charging only for the small individual part (and the labor to replace it) that was the cause of the problem. To meet the business overhead (pay taxes, employee wages, benefits, equipment costs, rent, etc.) most automotive repair businesses must spend a minimum amount of time to diagnose and repair (while still charging "the specified labor charge in the flat rate manual ), and they must sell a significant amount of parts (at a high profit margin). Other automotive repair businesses use the additonal tactic of diagnosing and repairing problems that do not exist, or creating problems that require a more costly repair that what the car arrived at the shop needing. These folks depend on a segment of the public needing their cars fixed, and fixed now; since they need it to get to work everyday. They have no time to argue or shop around for a different diagnosis. Add the ignorance of another segment of the general public regarding the ever more complicated systems in modern cars to the equation too. They have to trust someone since they have no knowledge of the car themselves, so they are easy prey to the "wolves". Sure there are many "American buyers" who are maintainence ignorant, but many more are tired of being treated like they are a natural resource to be "processed like cattle to create profit" for less than honest auto repair businesses. Between these two groups of consumers, a significant percentage of the population cringes at the thought of taking their car to a shop for anything, and will put it off until it cannot be put off any longer. We, the folks who expend time and effort to understand and maintain our own cars are (increasingly) a rarity in modern US society.

I'm not waiting 30 years to say it! " another blasted sunroof....bah!" PS: Looks like someone left a cafeteria tray on the roof!

Whoa fella, you're reading way too much into what I said. I was just asking what you meant by "in better condition than that". Since the auction indicated it was a new badge being offered. No mocking was intended "Gladys". :cheeky: It's nice that you are (or were?) offering your spare badge to Gavin.

Heck Yeah! Grab it while he's offering it!

You have one in better condition that a brand new one?

Whew, your silence of the past few days had me worried. I was under the car for several hours yesterday and searched high and low for something else that fit the specs you had posted and the grille was the only thing I could find that had rivits, steel, aluminium, and stainless bolts. So,, is my "prize" in the mail?

There is no doubt that the "original" Minilites were Magnesium, but even in the 70's Minilite (which ever iteration of the brand that existed) was making and selling both Aluminium and Magnesium versions of the classic designed wheels. There were also many companies that made their own copies of the design.

Thank you to the several people who responded to my plea with offers of a washer. I've been blessed with a washer being sent to me to replace the one that I lost track of. Thanks again Carl

Which parts are you calling "rollers" ? 240Z seats have mounting tracks that are of a "slider" style, and attach to the seat supports with studs and nuts. My early 1972 240Z came with reclining seats from the factory. Also, though I haven't done it myself, I have a friend who installed seats from an early 260Z into his 1973 240Z and he says it was a straight bolt on with no modifications required.

Been preparing the passenger side floorpan for POR (inside and outside) Stripped paint off last week, Marine-Cleaned and Metal-Ready applied today. Friday, 2 coats of POR15 inside and out. Saturday, apply ChassisCoat Black inside and out. Sunday, rest and get ready to assemble rebuilt L24 engine.

Our member 26thZ reported as follows: The quote I got on May 14th was $582 US from the Washington State "consolidation point". I remember round trip shipping from Florida to Washington was $150 for my dash. __________________ $582 USD includes Restoration and shipping to and from AU back to USA West Coast plus $150 shipping from West Coast to East Coast USA = $732 USD to restore your own dash. The one at MSA is a Nissan Factory Original UnRestored Dash. No telling when it was manufactured. Could already be 10 or 20 years old.

Here is a diagram of an installatiopn, and a picture of a set of what you need for a complete set of end links. You need: 8 bushings (rubber or polyurethane) 8 cupped washers if using polyurethane bushings The images below show polyeurathane bushing kits. Courtesy of http://www.energysuspension.com/index.html

Not on any of the 3 - 240Z's that I've owned. The 3 nuts that mount the down pipe to the exhaust manifold flange have been 14mm stainless steel hex nuts, and the nuts and bolts that attach the intake and exhaust manifolds to the cylinder head have been 12mm hex nuts/bolts. Per Z Car Microfiche CD: Nuts (manifolds to head) = p/n 08911-10810 Nut - Hex Nuts (Ex Manifold to Downpipe) = p/n 20600-87100 Nut, Fixing; Tube End (these are Stainless Steel Hex nuts)

19mm Wrench required for these.