Bambikiller240

:stupid:

Check www.ZHome.com for a registry of early Z cars. You can get a pretty good idea of production date. Once you get the doors open you can also check the Data tag on the drivers door jam. The locking gas cap is an aftermarket piece, and you'll probably have to disassemble the filler neck to get it off. See if you can get a key made for it. They are very difficult to find now days and sell for about $50 on eBay when they show up.

They can be used if the chain is stretched. Also, back in the day, the C Production Z cars routinely set up their cars with the #3 position to get more power out of the engine. AIR, the differnce in cam timing between each of the positions is something like 4 degrees advancing the cam timeing in relation to the crankshaft timing marks. Of couse back then, there was higher octane gasoline available so this may not be something you could get away with (in the US) now. Maybe someone with more knowledge can pipe up here and advise us both, as I'm about to start assembling the top-end of my newly rebuilt short block L24 and I'd like to optimize the engine for the best power I can get out of the crappy gas we have here in California.

OK, I see where you are at on this issue. Sounds like you are just getting ready to get into this thing. Since you haven't looked at the plugs, and I'm guessing that this is a new (to you) car )god knows what shape they are in, or how long they have been in there)........replace the plugs now (use anti-seize on the threads), do the other things that you mentioned, and keep an eye on those plugs. Pull them and inspect them each week for a while and see how they look, how their appearance changes as time passes. This (and the compression test) will help to tell you how bad of an issue this "blow-by" is for your engine. Didn't mean to overwhelm you with questions

Blow-by? Do you mean blow-by as in the piston rings aren't seating to the cylinder walls and the combustion pressure is blowing-by (past) the rings into the crankcase? If so, I guess I'm not sure how that would foul the plugs. Of course, I'm NOT an engine expert. Have you checked your compression? What are the readings? Have you done a leakdown test? What color are the plugs? How long does it take them to get that color?

Well, the auction indicated the diameter of the holes for the cam (bearing surface) was within spec (but just barely AIR). Measure the cam that you have and see what diameters you have to work with. Check with a machine shop and see if they think there would be enough "meat" to line-bore the towers to fit the cam that you have to work with. Who knows, you MAY not even have to line-bore. Won't know until you take some measurements.

I'd suggest checking this in a shop manual (preferably a Factory Shop Manual), since I don't have my manual here and I'm going by memory but I believe that what you are showing in the .jpg is correct (or within spec).

I agree with Victor. Cost for a new set of NGK BP-6 plugs is about $10.00 Why muck around cleaning old ones? New plugs, new cap and rotor (points too, if you still haven't gone to Pertronix), set the timing and you should be good to go in a hour or two. Some things take more time and effort than it is worth bothering with.

MAYHEM is referring to the oil filter itself. If the presure relief is eliminated (plugged or capped off) and you rev a cold engine, that thick oil and the increased pressure from high RPM operation WILL split the filter sometimes. There ARE reasons for the pressure relief valve to be there! If you plug the relief valve, don't rev the engine cold. It only takes a few minutes to warm the engine properly. Why take ANY chances? FWIW

Take your radiator to a local radiator shop and ask them about putting in a new core with 3 or 4 rows, and/or more fins per inch. I had a 3 row heavy duty core installed in my stock 72 240Z radiator tanks and brackets. It was a bit more expensive than the list price for one from MSA, but I didn't have to pay shipping and I got a better warrentee. FWIW, Carl

Hi Victor: I believe that he "square" one for your ignition lock is a replacement. I mean that the ignition lock assembly has been replaced at some time in the cars life. The other (rounded) key is the standard normal key that came with the car. My late 71 and early 72, and mid 73 240Z's all had the rounded one as the only key that operated all locks (doors, hatch, glovebox, and ignition). A year a go I had to replace the Ignition lock on the 72 and I got that "squared" key with the new lock assembly from Nissan. I still use the original key for the doors and hatch.

How much more accurate do you want than actually SEEING the piston reach the top of it's stroke?

I was under the impression that it is a pressure relief valve so that if the oil filter gets clogged, there is a path for oil to return to the engine block and continue a flow of oil (and oil pressure)throughout the block. Anyone want to correct me if I'm wrong? Don't have my manuals here to look through, but that is my recollection of the purpose for the spring-loaded check ball at the oil filter mounting.

The earliest 240Z's had 2 (two) keys. I do not recall off hand when the switch to a single key was made. Also do not remember whether it was a separate key for the Hatch (w/ doors and Ignition keyed alike), or a separate key for the Ignition (and Doors and Hatch keyed alike). I'm sure that someone who has owned one of these early Z's can fill you in completely, but to start an answer to your question, YES, there were 240Z's that used two keys.

MSA sells rebuilt Master-Vac units on an exchange basis. If your vacuum hoses or check valve are not the problem, I'd spring for one of these. FWIW, Carl

Sorrt, I can't resist.........It makes you VERY "EXPERIENCED".

OK Steve, we'll let you back onto the fold. Not really sure anyone thought ill of you over the sugestion that you were "behind" the deletion. (that was a pun)

Question? What Question? Oh, That question...........................Here's my answer: I don't know. Now can we go back to watching the Butts wiggle?

Regarding your "new" avatar---------:cross-eye :cross-eye

Gavin: Sounds like it could be the brake SHOE being worn down to metal and that brake shoe metal is now eating at the brake drum. Unless you want to replace the brake drum, I'd drive the car very little until you address this issue. It does not take too much metal on metal wear to ruin the drum, and they aren't cheap to replace (at least here in the US they aren't. Good Luck with final exams & the car!

You use a different size feeler guage when doing them cold and this compensates for the expansion of the metal which wil occur when the engine is warm. I always do mine stone cold also.

It is really a judgement call. Experience certainly helps. You want the feeler guage to be able to slide between the cam and rocker SMOOTHLY, with a bit of resistance, but not so much resistance that the feeler trys to bend or jam as you move it back and forth. So loose of a fit that it slides VERY easily is not good, just as too tight is not good. The best suggestion that I can offer, is to have someone who knows what they are doing complete an adjustment of your valves, then jump in there yourself and use a feeler guage to actually experience how the guage should feel as it is placed between the rocker and cam when the gap has been properly adjusted.

I'm looking to trade the "spare" N36 Intake Manifold that I have for an earlier style E88 Intake Manifold in similar good condition. Some folks, mostly racers feel that the N36 Intake flows better than the E88, so if you want one, let me know. I'd rather have the E88 that belongs on my stock 72 if I can get one without spending any money. I'm in the SF Bay area. Thanks, Carl

The loss of vac. can explain the pedal going to the floor using just your finger, but if the brake system is bleeding properly, you should be able to get a reasonably firm pedal without the engine operating. Bleed the Master Cylinder first, then you bleed Right Rear, then Left Rear, then Right Front, then Left Front? (for a LHD car) OH, if you have a RHD car you probably need to do LR, then RR, the LF, then RF since the Master Vac and Cyl are on the "wrong" side of the car.

The Vac Hose from the manifold is a two piece hose.The check Valve is mounted in a bracket on the firewall IN BETWEEN the two hose pieces that connect the Brake Booster to the Intake manifold. It's a small round valve supported in a bracket at the firewall.