Bambikiller240

I would expect it to be ready to bolt on, but would not expect the head bolts or valve cover to be part of the deal. cam should definitely be included, unless specified otherwise.

That is insane. Shipping cross country USPS Priority Mail wouldn't be more than $6.00, and if the seller had any brains they would order the free shipping boxes and tape from USPs. But at least he's warning you upfront what he plans to do. My beef is when the shipping cost isn't stated, then after the auction you find out that the seller is making up on shipping charges for the good deal you got on the actual bid/sale.

I wasn't meaning to "rip" on your KYB's. Actually I have KYB's (with oil in the strut tubes) on my 72 Z. With my budget, I couldn't justify the expense of Illuminas,and the Bilsteins that I'd prefer to have, are not made anymore.

I believe that you would not use the clamp on the front struts, but could use it on the rears. I dont believe that the rod itself rotates, but I think the strut rotates around the rod which stays in a fixed position due to the way it mounts to the "isolator" that bolts to the chassis. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

I'd say there are at least several differences: Several hundred dollars in cost, and much higher quality. Not to mention the adjustability of the Illuminas.

I'm not sure I understand your question, but if you mean how complete would I expect the head to be (what would I expect to GET if I were to BUY a head); I'd expect to get everything (except the oil tube, as I always buy a new one). Head itself, cam towers, cam, springs, and valves.

Nigel: Did the engine show signs of overheating whent he noise occurred? I wonder if maybe one or more of the "mousetrap" springs that are on the rocker arms came off, or something else that only affects the cylinder head, or timing chain/tensioner. When bearings go bad usually the noise starts low and builds in volumn, and and as that happens the engine gets progressively hotter. (unless you are winding the engine up to 7,000+ rpm) Before you write off the engine, you may want to pull the valve cover and have a look around.

Hi Mark: Did you have the ones that you are installing replated? How did you clean them internally? Run a fine wire through them or? My driver side one is plugged up and I'm afraid that if I stick something into it to unplug it, I'll damage it so that when it does spray it will not spray smoothly and properly. (you know, squirt out in a mangled stream or off to one side or something.) I'll have to look and see which type of base the nozzles on my 72 have.

Hi Mark: I noticed that your web page indicates that you installed new windshield washing hardware, including nozzles. Where did you find new nozzles? I'd ben told that only the right nozzle is available for the 70-73 Z's. I'd love to get a complete pair if I knew where to get them. Carl

Let's get out the Ouija board and ask John Denver! Notice that the only one telling you it's not needed, DIDN'T follow his own belief and DID add oil to his struts. However he encourages you to test HIS belief on YOUR car.:stupid:

If you drive you car like an old lady and never give the strut catridges a "hardcore workout" you probably wouldn't "need" to add the oil. On the other hand, if you drive your car hard occasionally, I believe that you do risk overheating the cartridges, and perhaps causing some damage. For the MINIMAL expense and MINOR hassle of adding a few ounces of oil to the strut tubes, I'd just do it and not waste my energy worrying whether it's "necessary" or not. You'll probably only know for sure if it was necessary if/when you have to purchase and replace blown out cartridges. Why take chances? Adding oil has been done by almost everyone who does this job and no one complains about it causing any problems. Of course, it's your money and your labor. I know what I'd do. ( I did and will continue to do so.) Carl

Any oil would be fine. It's only there to displace air so that heat build-up in the cartridge will transfer to the metal strut housing quicker, and to keep the cartridge from rusting to the tube. Add only enough so that it does not spill out the top of the strut housing when cartridge is in place and the housing is installed in the car. A few ounces will do it. Some folks claim that anti-freeze will work just as well as the oil, but I've never used it.

Ask the Mrs. (Hint: Your Z won't get jealous and pout if you spend too much time/money on the your lady, however..........)

Flyer? What Flyer? I think it flew away.

I think they need to offer parts for 240Z's

Also, A Z worth acquiring and maintaining for the long haul is easier to identify. Once acquired it isn't going to suddenly transform into a Gillig Bus either!

I thought this was illegal in CA (and most other states with the possible exception of Utah) Of course, I've heard that having two wives is it's own punishment.

Hi George: On my car the fitting on the clutch and brake pipes are 10MM. I use Sears Craftsman wrenches (regular and Flare nut wrenches) and they fit just fine. Not sure why they would be different in the UK. Are the fittings un undamaged condition? If they have been damaged by previous attempts to remove them, they will often "not fit" the standard wrenches due to the deformation of the fitting. I always use penetrating oil (Kroil is my favorite, but I have used other brands) when trying to loosen these fittings as it is very easy to damage them.

They are bearings that are mounted in between the surface of the piston connecting rods and the surface of the crankshaft. They are the "wear surface" that contacts the crankshaft. As the piston goes up and down in the cylinder, the piston connecting rod transmitts that motion into rotation of the crankshaft. The rod bearing is made of softer metal than either the connecting rod or the crankshaft. These bearings wear instead of the rod or crankshaft as the engine operates.

Se FSM or Haynes manual for min / max specs on compression for your engine.

These covers must be easily available in Canada becasue this seller has been auctioning off several pair per month for quite some time. Either that or he bought a ton of them and has been sitting on them for a few years.

DOn't have my manuals with me here, but I believe that Haynes uses the same (or very similar) terminology as the FSM. YES, What you and Haynes, & FSM (and probably George ( screen name = 240Z) are calling a Transverse Link is what I and most US folk call a Lower control arm. Similar to a Lower Wishbone on an F1 or Champ Car.

Enrique: You got the same link here that you have for the Heater Control Panel.

Enrique: Have you done this swap? I've read posts from others who claim that the shape is slightly different and required modification to fit properly. I'd like to do it, but not at $125 for the panel. I'm getting good at groping in the dark.