Bambikiller240

At one time Pete Brock and John Morton were siad to be attending. Is that still true? No mention on the flyer.

My suggestion would be to weld first, & POR later, when the welding is completed.

You won't find Rewinds in Chrome. They are Aluminum and come either painted Silver (with Polished Lip), or painted Gun Metal (with Polished Lip) MSA, or "ggtyler" (on eBay) are good places to get these.

I'm not at home ATM, and I don't remember exactly when the change from A to B type trans occured. Sometime in 1971 model year I believe. My previous Z (1971, HLS30-23313) had the A type until I put in a 1973 B type trans in it. My current Z (1972 HLS30-55703) came with the B type trans from Nissan.

Spacers I've seen have recessed holes for the studs to be secured with nuts.(so the nuts end up below the outer surface of the spacer) The wheel then rests against the full thickness of the spacer.

Same reason you play with "breats" all day. For our own enjoyment.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6083&page=2&pp=15&highlight=screen+names Post #21

bambi ate one too. ........and a hood, fender, headlight case, and a bumper :mad:

All 240Z's, 260Z's, and 280Z's have front Diff mounts, and the clunk is most often caused by the failure of this FRONT DIFF MOUNT. Other possible causes are the U-Joints, and/or Moustache bar bushings, but the most common cause is the FRONT DIFF MOUNT. It is a notorious and very well known weak link in the system. Those of us who have worked on 240Z's for 30+ years have seen it many times. NO, ......240Z's and 260Z's have ALWAYS had moustache bars. The ones on 280Z's may be different, but 280Z's aren't the only Z's to have moustache bars.

Good point to be made. Capt Mark, HOW did you perform the Compression test? As I recall (don't have my check list here) PREPARATION 1. Coil Wire OFF 2. Fuel Pump disconnected from Fuel Rail (& routed into fuel catch can) 3. Carb Throats propped OPEN (not sure what you'd do on an EFI equipped engine, but the idea is for the engine to breathe freely) 4. All Spark Plugs removed FOR EACH CYLINDER: 5. Install Compression Tester into Spark Plug hole 6. Spin Engine through 3-4 Compression Strokes and record highest reading. Do this for each cylinder. GO BACK TO THE FIRST CYLINDER TESTED AND: 8. Now squirt some Oil into the Spark Plug hole (couple of squirts or maybe 2 teaspoons full. 9. ReInstall Compression Tester 10. Spin Engine through 3-4 Compression Strokes and record highest reading. Do this for each cylinder. ** This second test (wet) of each cylonder should result in about ~10 lbs/sq. in. higher reading than you got in the first (dry) test of the cylinder.

They should fit in the doors and work with the supplied keys, but I doubt that you would be able to have them re-keyed to match your Ignition/hatch/glovebox. There are several different variations of these locks. Early 240Z's used single sided keys (and I believe there were a couple of different styles of single sided keys/locks), later 240Z's used double sided keys. I'm not sure what your options are now days. In Oct 03 I bought a complete lockset (Doors, Ign, Hatch, Glovebox) from Courtesy Nissan and they indicated at that time that they were selling their last stock of these and the locksets would be NLA when the 5 sets they had were gone.

240Z locks can't be locked unless the door is closed also. Maybe something changed between 1976 and 1978

The L24's (in good "no complaints" condition) that I've checked typically have about 155-165 or better, even with 125,000+ miles on them. Nissan Factory Spec (Page ET-4 of my Nissan L20A/L24 Engine Manual) is 171 to 185 lb/sq in @ 300-400 RPM ** if you have the later version of E88 head, factory spec might be a bit lower. EDIT: Nope, even the 73 FSM still quotes 171 to 185 lbs/sq. in. and 73 HLS30-U's came withthe smogged "late" E88 head.

Going from an "A" to "B" 4-Speed (I have done this), or from "A" 4-Speed to the 5-Speed trans commonly available in the US, you will have to enlarge the shifter hole in the Trans Tunnel. I also switched to a Series II console (but I don't know if it was necessary, I just had one in better condition than the old Series I console that I had at the time). I'm not sure what if anything additional is required for putting in the 5-Speed

Factory rating (100% Stock) was 150 HP, a header by itself won't get you anything; but with a mild cam and the header you should be in the low to (possibly) mid 160 HP range IF everything is set up properly (Carbs, Ignition, Rings and bottom end of the motor in good nick) . * all figures at the flywheel

One thing is sure, IF it is true, the oil industry will be the last to admit to it. (All the while jacking the price, and continuing to post record profits every fiscal quarter)

Condensation could have left enough moisture in the cylinders to promote a fair amount of rust on the cylinder walls. Trans would probably be less affected by this since at least part of the gears and bearings are soaking in gear oil. Now that you have the parts from the 77, what is your friend going to do with the 78? Any chance you could pry it away from him too? More parts, some for eBay, some for yourself. Could be a profitable deal.

Considering Chris' self proclaimed ability to down 18 beers, it's a good thing you mentioned smoking and not drinking in your disclaimer.

I am sure that Alfa knew that I was joking WITH him regarding the subject matter. Perhaps you aren't familiar with the difference between "impotent" and "important". but I am sure that Alfa and myself do know the difference. It's getting to be more than annoying when people like yourself complain about the amount of time people (including myself) spend here trying to help people. If you feel we aren't helping people enough, GET OFF YOUR arse AND HELP SOME PEOPLE! Don't expect me or anyone else to do more than we choose to do just to please you. When the material has been explained in detail a dozen times the choice between going over it a thirteenth time, or helping to answer a different question is easy to make. Of course on the other hand I could just have you email my schedule on a daily basis so I know how much time you expect me to put in.

If people are too lazy to take advice meant to help them to learn to help themselves, what do I care. I'm not their Daddy!