Bambikiller240

speeling error!!!!!!! "impoRtAnt!!!!

excellent advice. Makes working on brakes a whole lot easier.

This information has been covered quite thoroughly a number of times, and a search using the term "Brake Upgrade" should yeild all the information that you need.

So we'll be seeing you contribute more often then, right?

Mark: I understand your point about Nissan supercedures, but MSA lists separate P/N for 70-73 Stock Rotors (#24-5031) and separate P/N for 74-78 Stock Rotors (#24-5032) and still more different numbers for ZX's. I doubt MSA (or any aftermarket reseller) would get into "supercedures" if not required, they would most likely have one P/N if they could. They also have different P/N for 70-73 Cross Drilled Rotors (#24-5720) and 74-78 C.D. Rotors (P/N #24-5721).

Nope, you have to pull the water pump and look at the timing cover metal behind the water pump. Always use a new gasket when re-installing. Have a machine shop (or some one familiar with how to do it) check your head for flatness. It only takes a few thousandths of an inch warp to cause problems.

a slim jim would work. buy a AAA membership (you get 3 service calls a year free if you're a member)

I don't think anti-seize is recommended for head bolts. AFAIK, only oil should be used on them. If the bolts loosen up, you could end up with a leak. When you switched heads, did you use a brand new headgasket? Are you sure of the condition of the Timing cover? The area of the timing cover behind the waterpump can corrode to the point of a hole developing. Guess what is behind the water pump? (the timing case, where the chain, gears and tensioner, and OIL reside).

opinions vary. However, it is the most viewed thread on the site (by a wide margin) so it's not like everyone dislikes it, or agrees with you. Since it's title is so well known, It is easy to avoid it if it's not your cup of anti-freeze.

Yes, I am quick to point it out, because it's a very common problem to Z's in particular, and other cars as well. Also. keep in mind that from "here", I can't see what you can see "there" so you have an advantage that I don't have in that regard. All any of us can do is suggest things based on our experiences. We can't check it out for you, and we're going to be wrong sometimes. But hey, at least you didn't pay someone to give you the wrong (or right) advice. As stated before, it doesn't take much to plug a line, and it may not be visable if it's stuck inside the line. It doesn't need to be an overwhelming about of crud, it's only about a 1/4" to 3/8" line (I know it's metric, but I'm estimating in common measurements used in the USA) Have you actually cut open the plastic filter housing so see what's inside of it? It's not always easy to view trapped stuff inside the filter from the outside. I don't know why they used so many vents, but people (not me, yet) have successfully gone to just one of the upper vents, so I doubt that is the problem on your car. There really isn't anything back there that can shut off the flow of fuel (no valves, etc). If there is a working vent (and if it's unobstructed, it is), and a free flowing supply & return pipe to transport the fuel to/from the engine bay, your pump should be able to draw the fuel to the filter, and return excess fuel to the tank (if the pump is in good order). It's about as simple of a system as can be.

Not necessarily true, it only take a small bit of crud to plug that small diameter line. HOW MUCH DO YOU THINK IT TAKE TO PLUG THAT LINE? If I'm was so wrong why are you still having problems with keeping the car running? I submit that you didn't fix the original problem, you "fixed" something else, IF ANYTHING. If you are so smart about this car what do you suggest is the problem and why are you asking for help? You ask for answers and yet when advice is given you find 50 excuses why the advice can't be correct. YOU TELL ME WHAT COULD KEEP FUEL FROM GETTING TO THE FILTERS (WHEN YOU CLAIM YOUR PUMP WORKS) BESIDES THE LINES BEING OBSTRUCTED! EDIT: Jayru, I am only trying to help you. I have owned 3 240Z's and worked on them ( and those of my friends) for 30+ years. What I am telling you is one of the most common issues with the fuel system on a car that has sat unused for any length of time, like yours. I've seen it my self at least a dozen times, and heard from others here and on other websites of many more instances. Are you sure that all of the other vent hoses are not obstructed by resin like you mentioned for GF21?

You are right. I'll be telling you the same thing as before. the pump sucks, the crud, (sediment) gets sucked into (or over the opening to the lines) and plugs them up. when the sucking stops the sediment can (but not necessarily "will") fall away. BTW, there should be NO sediment in the tank. Do yourself a favor and clean it out. It should be obvious by now that something is preventing fuel from getting to your filters. Since the tank and lines are the only things "upstream" something must be blocking the fuel from following those lines to the filter. If you think it's the GF-21 (missing) hose that's the cause (I don't), remove the plug, buy 3-4 ft of hose and reinstall it. Come on Jayru, this isn't rocket science, it's common sense.

Is that what was going on in the cubicle? The video is so fuzzy I had no idea why that clip was in the video. Sigh, leave it to a pimp hat wearing guy to spot that.

I hear ya. but if people would invest $10 in a shop manual (doesn't have to be a FSM) they can follow the pictures to the correct teminology and then use it when either asking or answering questions. For me, sometimes the search pulls up so many threads that I can't possibly read through every one of them (it would take all day). very frustrating. I wish I knew more about defining a search to a narrower result.

Maybe a write up on how to use it woud help? I don't know much about it, so I stumble through, often trying many terms before finding what I'm looking for. Sometimes never finding what I'm looking for. example, when I search by user name it only brings up results for the most recent 500 threads. 2ManyZs, Victor, and some others have thousands of threads and thus much of their information is impossible for me to find using that method of search. PS guess the name change on the thread didn't work?

Christopher: I tend to agree with you, but there are exceptions. Some people don't respond to diplomacy, they take offense at anything that isn't what they wanted to hear. Suggesting that simple questions can be answered by use of the search function shouldn't (by itself) be considered as undiplomatic. Some people are insightful and/or sincere and their questions are rooted in reality , but some others are simply clueless. IMO, there are times when a hammer upside the head is the best thing you can do for some person.

Easy target's are hard to pass up (it's that Pimp Hat, it just stands out). Just ask the local PD in Bill's town. We're just kidd'in the kid.

Suggesting the use of the SEARCH function is great advice and shouldn't be viewed so negatively (in all cases). Teaching someone to help themselves is infinitely more valuable than holding their hand every day for the rest of their life. "Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, Teach him HOW TO FISH and you feed him for a lifetime." There are people out there who won't be bothered to buy and READ a manual and/or even bother to attempt to learn the basics of their car (i.e. crawl under it and look around for a drain plug, or oil leak, or whatever). They'd rather have YOU re-write the manual, chapter by chapter for the thousandth time (HERE) especially for them. Then there are the people who admit that they don't know anything about a car (any car, or this car) and yet still ask how they can modify their car to achieve insane HP, or elapsed time. (stuff that is WAY beyond their capability to comprehend, let alone accomplish) At some point (sometimes) it gets easy to feel that not every question deserves an answer. Some questions are are excellent, others are just fanciful, some are stupid. (yeah, I've heard it said that "there is no such thing as a Stupid Question". I disagree with it. BTW, that quote came from a member of the Teacher's Union.) PS the SEARCH function could be helped ALOT by people using a little forethought when creating threads: 1. Use the correct (or at least common) term for what you are talking about. "that hot thingy with a red wire" isn't very helpful. Also, IDENTIFY what kind of car you are working on, or referring to. Some people forget that there are significant differences (in certain area's) between a 240Z and a 280Z. Also, SPELL CORRECTLY. The search engine is DUMB, it returns results that EXACTLY MATCH the search criteria. 2. Dont post under the Subject "f#ck this sh#ts me............ " (the original name of this thread) if you want to talk about people suggesting others use the SEARCH button. ***I'm not picking on Aussie260z, just using it as an example of a "Subject" that doesn't tell people who use the SEARCH button ANYTHING about what the actual thread subject is. There is nothing like having to read 50 threads that are listed in the search results, yet have little to do with what help you need just to find a nugget of information 3. If you have some good information, post it in an appropriate thread. Create your own thread in the appropriate forum if necessary. Many times I see a thread get hijacked (or regurgitated) to a similar but different subject (someone was too lazy to start their own thread) and then a great answer is provided, but few people will ever find it again because it's in a thread that is basically unrelated to the great information provided.

There are a few on that page that are interesting, though the exhaust systems look really stupid. I'm thinking tha the term "$hitbox" just about covers the description of most of them

No Ron, I won't be able to make it this year (again). Just started a new job and I'm still too broke to afford it. Maybe next year. (I said that last year Hope y'all have a good time, and take and post some pictures for those of us who can't be there. Cars, Members, and Girls. (and more Girls)

Maybe he meant it will be in "police impound yard". (more speeding tickets)

I agree. The car was in a junkyard for a reason. 1. Need to assess what you have bought yourself into, before spending more money. Visable rust is only the tip of the iceburg (you will find more), and rust repairs are expensive unless you can do all of the work yourself. In that case rust repair is time consuming 2. Buy a Repair Manual for the car (Haynes, or Chiltons, whatever) so you can learn how to work on cars (this will minimize your mistakes). 3. Start saving money for parts/tools now. BTW, the 280zx Turbo swap can be done but you'll need more than just the engine to make it happen. Engine management system (sensors, wiring, computer) and some skills to integrate it all into the existing Z car wiring/chassis.

???????????????????????? English translation please

Here's a direct link to download the video: http://x1.putfile.com/videos/d7-2119591185.wmv

For those of you who are interested in Bio-Diesel, Joe Jobe of www.Biodiesel.org will be a guest of Art Bell on "Coast to Coast AM" (durring the first hour of the show) on Saturday Evening April 16th, 2005. If you don't know what Radio station carries the show in your area, Check out http://www.coasttocoastam.com/info/wheretolisten.html