Bambikiller240

That is what I thought. I knew I had read of it somewhere but could not find the reference. Mystery solved!

No, you disconnect it at the tank. To get to the clamp at the tank, you must remove a little cover plate at the rear of the right rear wheel well. Probably about 3 or 4 small screws. All vent hoses should be disconencted at the fuel tank When empty of fuel the tank is fairly light. 20-25 lbs maybe less?

While removing the gas tank for treatment, you might as well replace the vent hoses as well. To do this you will follow KMACKS instructions AND you'll need to remove the two interior panels (Right rear and the one at the very back under the hatch) to gain access to the vent tank end of the hoses. The vent hoses can be replaceed with generic "fuel/oil" rated hose from the parts store EXCEPT for the one that has the pre-formed 180 degree bend in it. That one needed to be a factory hose (unless you can find a stainless spring to fit into generic "fuel/oil" rated hose that will keep the hose from kinking when the bend is made. If you use generic hose there, and let it kink, you'll have fill problems as the tank will not vent properly. The rubber nipples that seal the vent hoses as they pass into the passenger cabin are no longer available, but can be replaces with large diameter shrink tubing to effect a seal. There was a good article on the subject in an early issue of SportZ

I only see one under car pic and I don't see oil. Where is it?

Are you getting fuel to the carbs? Disconnect the outlet of the fuel pump, put the hose in a coffee can, and crank the engine. The coffee can should start filling up. I love my Pertronix Ingnitor. I had a Crane XR700 before it, and it was a pain in the arse to keep in adjustment, and the damn power transistor in it died within two years, and was a bitch to diagnose. "Never Again!" IMHO, Pertronix or a switch to the ZX Electronic Ingition Distributor are the only ways to go. (Maybe Kyle's GM HEI, but that's a BIG maybe for ME)

While I have no definitive information, I do seem to remember someone (perhaps Carl Beck, owner of ZHome.com) stating that the very first Z's to arrive had no evaporative system. That it was added quite early in the 1070 model year. I suggest contacting Mr Back on the ZHome mail list and asking for clarification. Your tank certainly look just like the later ones except for the missing vent near the inlet/outlet fittings, and the vent at the driver-side rear of the tank. I doubt that it has been hacked.

MikeW: I stand corrected. My 1972 speedo also starts at ZERO. I really don't know where this one starting at 10 mph fits into the Z timeline. Regarding the 20 mph speedo, according to www.Zhome.com , the change from 20 mph starting speedo to one starting at ZERO was part of the long list of changes that happened on the switch from "Series 1" to "Series 2" cars that occurred in January of 1971. I don't see mention of a speedo with a 10 mph starting point. Maybe someone else can shed some light on the subject.

One thing that seems FUNKY to me is the Tachometer. The 1973 240Z that I previously owned (mfg'd 3/73) had a Tach that showed a 5500 RPM REDLINE ; where this one shows the Tach with a 7000 RPM REDLINE from a pre-1973 Z. He was not too picky what parts he chose to stuff into this turkey. PS The 70 240Z's had a speedo that started at 20 mph, I think this car has the correct speedo.

I can show you how to fight back. Contact me off list signed, Scott Peterson

Since you are in the middle of a job, this may not help you today, but check out SILI-KROIL made by Kano Laboratories in Nashville, TN. It is the best penetrating oil that I have found. It is only available by mail-order, but works SO good that it is worth the bit of hassle to order ahead of time. I use it often and I've never had it fail. I've used it on: Manifold studs / nuts Brake line fittings gas tank strap bolts (after brushing off the undercoating stuck in the threads) rusty suspension components bumper bracket bolts / nuts Thermostat housing bolts ( many of you KNOW how tough these are to loosen!)

I used to own a 1973 240Z, HLS30-150712 (mfg 3/73) and it had no factory supplied sway bar mounts in the rear of the car at all. I have always thought that rear sway bars (anti-roll bars) became standard from the factory on early model 260Z's. There were various after-market kits available to add rear bars to 240Z's (both front or rear oriented varieties) as early as 1975.

Sorry, It is not required of us men who are members of the ROYAL ORDER OF FREE MEN to sign such a tripe filled document. Sigh, are we the only one's who remember the days when MEN wore the PANTS in the relationship? Don't be Pu$$y-Whipped! Rise Up, and act like MEN! signed, Scott Peterson OJ Simpson Bill Clinton

COuld be worse, I paid $3.50 USD for a magazine from Australia that was published as a free magazine (not complaining here); but the shipping to USA cost me an extra $10.00 USD. So basically I paid $14.00 USD for a free magazine, which took 4 weeks to arrive. It was an interesting read to see how literary styles in OZ differ from USA, and to view the adverts, but I would never bid on stuff like that anymore!

Temps in the 40-50 range is WAY too cold for POR'ing. My POR rep reccommended 75 degrees+, but I suspect that 70+ would be acceptable too. Basically, you need some humidity AND warm weather for successful POR15 application. I would not advise waiting till December given the tempuratures that you mentioned.

Hi Mark: I have no personal experience in this, but everyone that I've spoken to who has installed windows, tells me that the only way to successfully install the stainless steel trim is in the seal, BEFORE installing the window in the car. They say that there isn't enough flexibility in the seal once it is in the car to permit installation of the trim. Good Luck Carl

Last Thursday afternoon I removed 85% of the undercoat on the Passenger side floorpan with a 1600W Hair Dryer and a 1.75" Stiff Blade Scraper. Took me 2 hours and 45 minutes, including jacking the car, clean up of the floor and me, and lowering the car, closing up the shop. The remaining 15% (edges near the rocker panels & very rear of the pan will be done this week with a non-metallic abrasive wire wheel. Also removed the complete "Tar Mat" from the inside of the passenger area on Wednesday of last week. 2 hours even. No heat, No dry ice, just a stiff 1.75" scraper and elbow grease.

I just heat the circumfrence of the control arm with a propane torch (don't try to "burn" the rubber). What will happen is that a thin layer of the rubber will melt at the outer edge. It will smoke a little, but not too badly. Whack the inner sleeve with a large hammer and everything but the OUTER sleeve will fall out. Dis-assemble a hack saw, and re-assemble it with the blade inside the control arm and carefully make two cuts in the sleeve only, about !/4 to 1/2" apart. Then you can peel the section up and remove the whole sleeve. Quite simple and not very messy or smelly if you dont actually burn the rubber.

I can't answer your question about if it has been modified, but I have never seen a set up like that. But, I've only seen cars that were manufactured from mid- 71 and newer. Thanks for posting the picture though, as I may try to duplicate that set-up to get rid of the vapor recovery tank on my car. The difficulty for me is going to be finding that "T" fitting that connects to the filler tube for the two vent hoses to connect to.

Maybe we do, but by a different name. (Translation please )? PS: Do you guys call us "Septic Tanks" because we're full of sh*t?

That would be "PRETZEL SEX!" (or "solo" sex)

George: Sears in the USA has two. The basic one for $25 USD, and a nice kit with many adapters etc for $50 USD

Never heard of someone trying to do this on an engine out of a car. Usually requires 3 to 4 compression strokes (cranked with a starter) to build pressure to reach the maximum it is going to get on a cylinder. Multiply by 6 cylinders. I'm not really sure you would get an accurate reading rotating the engine by hand, but I certainly could be wrong on that. Good Luck and let us knoww what you get for readings. Maybe we can all learn if this will work.

The few times that I've pulled L24 engines out of chassis, I've used a new manifold stud on the head and the front lift hook, OR used a Grade 8 bolt in place of the old manifold stud and the front lift hook. I always quickly and carefully jack the engine up and out (moving the car when possible is better than moving the hoist) and then lower the engine as soon as possible. Minimum "AIR" time is the name of the game for me. IMHO, If you use a Grade 5 bolt you are asking for trouble. I expect that the bolts mounting the front lift hook are Grade 5 or equivilent, but there are two of them to share the load. I'd NEVER trust lifting by an old manifold stud with an engine or car of mine. NEVER.