Bambikiller240

ZmeFly: Since yur an alignment tech I'm hoping that you can 'splain this to me so I understand it. I thought that if the "offset" was zero, then the back-spacing would be exactly 1/2 of the wheel width. In other words: 5" wide wheel = 2.5" back space 5.5" wide wheel = 2.75" back space 6" wide wheel = 3.0" back space 7" wide wheel = 3.5" back space 8" wide wheel = 4.0" back space Reason I ask is I've seen people post wheel size info that doesn't follow this assumption. Can you clear this up for me? I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

Besides the standard tool kit of: full set of metric 3/8" and 1/2" drive 12 point sockets full set of Metric Combo Wrenchs Small set of Standard & Phillips Screwdrivers Regular Pliers Channel-Lock Pliers 1/2" drive 10-150 ft/lb Torque wrench Big & Small Hammers I frequently use the following: 10 mm Flare nut wrench (or Aldenwrenches - www.aldenwrench.net ) for brake line fittings Small Needle-Nosed Vice-Grips for help with screws with stripped heads, and brake line fittings that are already dammaged. Ohm-Meter for Electrical troubleshooting Brass Drift for replacing Wheel Bearings Pickle Fork or Pittman Arm Separator for Tie-Rod Ends and Ball Joints. Spring Compresser Set for Suspension work

ZwolleY: Just thought I'd mention, that (if you want to) you can replace your alternator with one for a late 280Z or 280ZX which has an internal voltage regulator. There is a write up on how to do this in our Technical atricles section. There isn't much to it, and you gain amperage capacity as well as the internal voltage regulation. Carl PS Sending you a Private message shortly, please read.

As Far As I Know, it is "Zero".

Revolution, Konig, Panasport make oversize wheels with correct offset for Z's. See the MSA catalog for prices & details. www.zcarparts.com

I'm often accused of being wrong, but actually....they are!

Some of us are so cynical that we don't believe anything told to us on April 1

The ashtrays that are in the EARLIEST 240Z's (the ashtray mounted in the FRONT of the console near the fusebox) are black plastic. On these ashtrays, you flip the lid "up and forward" to open the ashtray. The slightly later 240Z's had the ashtray in the middle of the console (near the E-brake handle. These ashtrays had a metal "slide to open" lid. Mine looks like brushed aluminum, but could be satin-finished stainless steel. I don't believe that it is chromed. That is the way it is in the USA anyway.

That, and they have taught their daughters the law of supply and demand. "Cut off the supply, and the demand rises!" It's makes her a winner everytime in my house!

Remove all the fuses and test while out of the fuse box. You may have a 30 year old fuse in there that was slightly damged when you were in there cleaning contacts. The end-caps tend to separate from the glass and it can look good, but still not pass current from one end to the other. As cheep as fuses are, I replace them all unless you KNOW that YOU have replaced them recently. Eliminates one potential source for your problem and for future issues. just my $.02

Eeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwww! Does it have one of those 4" diameter exhaust tips?? or wiggle when it rolls down the road???? :stupid: :tapemouth

A Re-build usually involves machining the block (i.e. Over-boring the cylinders, machining the crankshaft, replacing the rod, and crankshaft bearings to match the machining done in those places replacing the pistons with ones to match the over-bore, ) in addition to all the work described by St. Stephen. What you end up with is an engine that is as close to new condition as is possible to obtain from the existing engine. All tolerances between the various parts should be within factory specifications for a new engine. To some people an "overhaul" is called a "refresh". It's kind of a half-way measure to extend the life of an engine that has high miles but is still in reasonable condition, maybe just burning a little oil.

From my point of view, electrical problems usually are YUCKY.

Yes, the oil futures traders seem to be driving the market currently. Those of us at the "sharp end of the stick" find little consolation in the fact that the price of oil FUTURES is reflected IMMEDIATELY at the pumps when the price is going up, and falls months after lower priced oil ARRIVES in the US for processing; enabling the oil companies to use the money "somewhere and on something which means an economy is being stimulated". The overall economy could just as well stimulated by allowing the general public to retain that money for personal spending. These are windfall profits. Are you telling us that the prices we ALWAYS pay at the pump do not include monies for the (admittedly significant) costs of developing additional supplies through exploration or whatever? I would find that very hard to believe, as it would not make good business sense, and is contrary to the limited information that I have read. Many of us ARE surprised at the quick rise and slow fall of prices for one simple reason. The oil companies do this in such an extreme manor that it defies logic, and seems to always result in record profits reports for three or four fiscal quarters beyond the price spikes in the crude oil prices. I have nothing against the people who work ing the oil industry, but I do find that IMHO the executive management of those companies to be thieves of the highest skill. .

My home page is that of my ISP "NetZero". I don't use it for anything, as I alway have a IE6 window open to 240z.org and another ready to go to other sites that I need to access. I do use "google" when I need to do a search

halz: The sad fact is that very little (if any) of the price increase at the pumps filters back to the employees. Especially in the current situation where the economy as a whole is in the toilet, and the rise in price is driven not by increased demand but ASSUMPTION of more limited supplies in the future. Better go back to those economics books.

A Pttman arm puller can work too. Be sure the screw is centered, spray some penetrant fluid on the tie-rod end, and tighten the screw. The one bad thing about the pickle fork is that it will destroy the rubber boot on the tie-rod end. Not a big deal if you already plan to replace it. Hanging like that is fine, just don't whack your head on it when working under the car. I usually remove mine all the way, but hanging like that should not be a problem. Sorry, I don't remember, but if you have a Haynes manual, I believe that it mentions which is which Sorry, I can't help with this question as I've never opened up the steering rack and have no experience in that area. I don't think rotating loosens anything, but it may or may not change alignment. But since you have the front end all apart, you're going to need to have the alignment done anyway.

The bend you describe is normal. you need to use a tool commonly called a 'ball joint separater" (slang name is "Pickle Fork") to remove the steering knuckle from the tie-rod end. Easiest done as a first step before knuckle is removed from strut/ball joint assembly. I do this first when disassembling the front end of a car. The tie-rod end threaded part is tapered and fits very tightly.

The only one allowed access to the winners email addy is the seller.

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No pictures, George. Only took one for the insurance dude, and tossed it when not needed. Too depressing to look at. Picture in your mind: the front 3 inches (leading edge) of hood bent down at 45 degree angle. Rest of hood bowed badly as a result Front bumper shaped like a "W":( Right headlight housing cracked by bumper "upright" piece. Left fender, and Headlight housing smashed to hell. Blood & deer poop all over the place. :( Airdam broken in many places. $4500.00 USD body shop charges to insurance company.:cross-eye

Why not change the filter first, then if not fixed, call the mechanic? If it hasn't been changed in a while, it probably needs it, and is VERY cheap, and easy to replace. Rule #1: Do the simple things first, then complicate your life.

No, it is just an old pump that needed to be replaced. COULD be a bad pump, and as mentioned, color of fuel can vary, but if the filter hasn't been replaced, I do it, and cut the old one open just to see how it's been doing it's job. You mechanic wouldn't be the first (nor last) to bugger something up, while fixing something else.

The one shown at the bottom of that page is, indeed; an OEM original Shift Knob for a 240Z. Pricey little bugger, eh?

Alfadog: I *think* the fuel filter is supposed to be replaced every 12,000 miles. It should not be "very dark". Usually if it is "very dark" that means there is "rust, crud, or crap" from the fuel tank in the filter. Possibly plugging it up. I would replace it and then cut the old one open (carefully, so you don't cut yourself) and examine the filter element inside.