Bambikiller240

And the other half are in the board rooms of the oil companies. Guess who's pal's those folks are? Yup, Bush's.

Bet that place smells good!

If we all jumped on the bus, the government would just jack up the price of Bus tickets to replace the lost fuel tax income. They are going to "milk" us one way or another.

Thanks to your export the Croc Hunter, I'm familiar with the "By Crikey" one, but can you translate the other two? Here in CA we have quite a few queens, but they don't talk like that!

George: I have a method for your consideration to remove the undercoat. I've done it this way and it works well for me. I use an hand-held hiar dryer gun to warm an area so that the material is softened, in the other hand I have a 2 inch wide paint scraper, and I scrape it off as it softens. There will still be tiny bits of it left, but they wipe off with a rag soaked in Acetine, or other solvent. If you are considering the POR15 treatment, remove ALL of the undercoat, follow the POR15 instructions TO THE LETTER, and you will be amazed at how well it works. After the POR treatment, you could re-apply undecoat as a sound deadener & additional protention of the metal if you wanted.

Don't hate California. The fuel and sales taxes haven't gone up since 9/11, blame the Oil Refiners that have eliminated competition in the state, and the Federal / State politicians that allow this to exist! Nuke the Politicians until their nUtZ Glow!

87 Octane regular was $2.25 USD last week. It's down to $2.21 USD now where I live in CA You mean I could live in OZ and it wouldn't cost any more for gas. I'd have them pretty Aussie girls to drool over at the beach too? Where did I put my suitcase?

Can't imagine what a wire would be doing coming out of the oil sump (pan, right?) There isn't anything in there except oil, zand the pick-up tube that sucks the oil up from the bottom of the pan (sump)into the engine block. Nothing electrical in there. I'm confused!:cross-eye PS George, On further recollection, when I removed my front traverse links, I did have to place a jack under the brake rotor and raise it slightly to move the steering tie-rod ends up enough to remove the bolt you referred to. When I re-installed, I did as Keith suggested and put the NUT on the forward side, so that I would not need to bother with that next time.

Looks like he took the "Buy It Now" Off of the auction. $9K is Impossible to get for this one, even on eBay. Unless Mayor Marion Berry from D.C. is looking for a Z!!!!

If your car is carburated, there should not be a problem. One fitting is for the return line for fuel not pumped into the carburetors. (probably the smaller fitting). Try to look into the tank from the filler connection and see if you can tell which fitting has a pipe that is plumbed to the bottom of the tank. That one should be the "outlet of the tank" that supplies fuel TO the carbs. the other one is the return line carrying excess fuel back FROM the front of the car back to the tank.

For some reason, reminds me of a Pontiac Firebird. Don't know why.

I did not have to remove the steering rack to remove the bolt on my 72 240Z. You are referring to the bolt that holds the lower control arm (traverse link;) ) to the cross-member that the engine mounts to, right? Should not be a need to deal with the steering rack to do that. Carl

Most people have already gone to stainless braided hoses before doing the Toyota caliper swap. Some go further and use a ZX 15/16" Master Cyl instead of the 240Z 7/8" M/C. Not necessary, but couldn't hurt either.

Only you can decide if it's cursed, but from your description it's probably a brake hose or rear wheel cylinder thats bad. Are you runnig the original hoses / cylinders that that the car came with from the factory 30 years ago? In either case, not too expensive to repair. If it is a hose, replace BOTH R & L hoses, or if you can afford it, do all 4 hoses. 2 front / 2 rear. Then you don't have to worry. If it's a RWC examine to see how bad it is. Maybe you can replace the seals from a rebuild kit, or get a new cylinder.

As I recall, it is just two or three wires to unplug, and reconnect, and a bolt or nut to mount the clock. Getting at it is the tedious part. The actual removal and replacement is simple simon! However, I always disconnect the battery when working on electrical, just in case I short something by accident.

No 240Z's came from the factory (in the USA) with 5 speed transmissions. Many "Previous Owners" have installed them over the years.

.............and replacement glove boxes are NLA from Nissan for 240Z's. So be as careful as you can, so as to minimize the damage that you do to it. I don't know of any other glovebox that will work/fit in a 240Z. Does anyone else?

Is it the fusible link? Short (4" maybe) piece of wire with a plastic connector on one end.

The dust could be carbon being blown/burnt off of the top of the piston or the combustion chamber, It could also be corrosion from the inside of the exhaust manifold and/or exhaust system. Blue smoke is usually indicative of valve stem seals leaking and/or oil rings allowing oil into the combustion chamber. It shouldn't be anything to do with coolant.

That French quote also describes the fellow shown in your current Avatar! (too bad his finger isn't "loaded"!) Sorry for the political statement, but today is the day that I've been dreading for our country (and the Iraqi people, and the rest of the world)

We still haven't heard from "beandip" and a few others on this thread. Where are you guys??

No problem. I understand where you're coming from. Carl

Hi Smokey: From your description and the pictures posted today, it looks like the battery area is in need of major work to get at all of the areas where the acid has migrated. It appears that the battery support will need to be removed, and the seams where the panels join will need to be opened to repair the damage. Metal will probably need to be cut out and new metal welded in, and then everything re-assembled and painted. You might want to talk to a body shop for a REALISTIC (no sugar coating) estimate of the costs involved, but I suspect it's not going to be cheap. If you are talking about rust that hasn't eaten deeply into or through the floorpan in large areas, this is the kind of rust that you could repair yourself (if you wanted to do do) with a few days of work and a modest purchase of POR15 materials. I (myself) would not shy away from the car for this issue I believe that you had mentioned early on in your examination of the car that it has been for sale for some time. Only you can decide the value of the car to you. If you don't want to let go of the idea of buying the car.....maybe show the pictures (or the car) to an expert body shop and get a realistic estimate of COMPLETE repair costs for the battery area issue, factor in the cost of the other issues you found and present a purchase offer to the owner, with figures to back up the costs in bringing the car to satisfactory condition. Sometimes people place values in their car that reflect the love they have for the vehicle more than a realistic appraisal of it's actual value on the open market. He may be offended at what you could offer, but since you are probably not the first person to consider buying the car, by now he's probably realised that his $11K price is way out of line. If your offer is realistic based on the vehicles condition, if he is offended by it, then problem is himself, not you. You shouldn't beat yourself up for being realistic. That is the Buyers job.

It had been 3 1/2 hours since I posted the request for clarification, so many already knew that I didn't get it. I don't mind that people knew I was lost on that one.

a pressure washer usually will remove most of the undercoat. I'd use a hair dryer and scraper to get the remaining chunks off, then wipe the area down with acetone to get the final tiny bits off. Others will have different idea that will work just as good, but that's how I'd do it. POR15 everything after it is solidly repaired/replaced http://www.thefinishedlook.com/main.htm