Bambikiller240

They are bearings that are mounted in between the surface of the piston connecting rods and the surface of the crankshaft. They are the "wear surface" that contacts the crankshaft. As the piston goes up and down in the cylinder, the piston connecting rod transmitts that motion into rotation of the crankshaft. The rod bearing is made of softer metal than either the connecting rod or the crankshaft. These bearings wear instead of the rod or crankshaft as the engine operates.

Se FSM or Haynes manual for min / max specs on compression for your engine.

These covers must be easily available in Canada becasue this seller has been auctioning off several pair per month for quite some time. Either that or he bought a ton of them and has been sitting on them for a few years.

DOn't have my manuals with me here, but I believe that Haynes uses the same (or very similar) terminology as the FSM. YES, What you and Haynes, & FSM (and probably George ( screen name = 240Z) are calling a Transverse Link is what I and most US folk call a Lower control arm. Similar to a Lower Wishbone on an F1 or Champ Car.

Enrique: You got the same link here that you have for the Heater Control Panel.

Enrique: Have you done this swap? I've read posts from others who claim that the shape is slightly different and required modification to fit properly. I'd like to do it, but not at $125 for the panel. I'm getting good at groping in the dark.

Actually, I believe that the FSM uses the term "Transverse links" for what we in the US call "Lower control arms". At least in the 1971 and 1973 FSM's.

AIR that's a better price than Vic Brit. !! I'll have to keep them in mind for later. Thanks for the info!!

Sorry, No digital camera as yet. Spending all of my (limited) money on the car, and lifes surprises. I did one floor pan late last summer, and plan on doing the other this summer. Maybe I'll get one of those new disposeable digital cameras and document the project.

Did you order those from Victoria British? I haven't used those, but they should be fine. Next time I take the suspension apart I'll probably get a set. I like the boot idea, but may keep my Poly bump stops.

AMEN! Get the one with a threaded fitting, not the one with a rubber end that you press into the spark plug hole. I want to say thread is 14mm X 1.25; but I may be wrong. It is a very standard metric size though, so you should not have a problem findin one that will work for you. I've had my Craftsman one for 25 years. Works great.

Actually if you were on the coast you MIGHT find someone who has a boat and would buy them. You won't be that lucky on the prarie!

Hi Victor: I don't know of a sealer that is fuel safe. There must be one, I just don't know of it yet. Are you sure that leak is coming from the O-ring and not from the the pipes above the the sender? I've seen the solder that secures those pipes into the tank crack and allow seepage. If you can wiggle the pipe(s) and they move, the solder is broken. Was the groove that the o-ring seats into clean? Sure you didn't pinch it when re-assembling? I've never had to use anything but the o-ring to seal mine.

There should not be a need to replace the bearing or the spacer IF they are in good condition. You may want to grease the bearing, but that is probably all you need to do. The spacer in the back strut assembly just takes up the space where the bearing would be. Yes, the bump stops prevent bottoming out the strut catridge and ruining them. The material you found at the bottom of the spring is what is left of the old bump stops that are glued to the "Hat" that holds the top of the spring in place. I don't think that the rubber stop is available separately, they only come with the Hat, but you can get Polyurethane ones to replace the rubber ones. I think I got mine from MSA.

You will need to make sure that your door seals are in good shape and stay that way. Also make sure that your windsheild seal is in good shape too. POR or no POR, any water that gets down there WILL take a LONG time to dry and will cause the carpets, and any underpadding to get moldy. The Dyna-Mat or Q-Pads shouldn't mold, but carpet padding and carpets will.

Finish was similar to the POR but without the sensitivity to UV, I brushed it on. Spraying their products requires special filteration for breathing and I don't have a compressor either. The ChassisCoat is similar in consistancy to POR. If the POR has beeen properly applied, I don't think you would need to worry about signs of rust in the future. It is NOT as thin as regular paint though. I have 2 coats of POR and 1 coat of ChassisCoat on the underside AND same on the inside of my floorpan.

I applied the POR ChassisCoat Black Paint over the POR15 on the inside of the floorpans. This summer I will replace the tarmat stuff that I had to remove to apply the POR with something. Haven't decided exactly what to use yet. There was a Thread here a while back suggesting several options for the Tar Mat. As I recall (I could be wrong) one was "Q-Pads", and another was "Dyna-Mat". I need to do more research before I settle on what to use.

You can undercoat after the POR if you want to. Will help keep road noise down a bit. ChassisCoat is not "necessary" for the bottom unless you want to do it. POR and undercoat is enough. Let the POR dry for a week or more, then cleanand dry the surface and undercoat. You should consider doing the POR to the interior as well because if the door weatherseals leak, water will get in and stay hidden under the carpet/floormatts for a long time and will rot the floors from the inside. I did inside and outside of the floorpans on my Z so I KNOW I won't be doing it again EVER!

Unless the car has been modified, the camber is NOT adjustable, but wear on the inside part of tire tread "could" be a camber issue. As in bent/damaged suspension. Your best bet is to take the car to an alignment shop with a computerized rack that will provide you with a printout of the settings found on the car when it came into the shop, and the settings after the alignment was performed.

I don't have access to sandblasting equipment and used a wire wheel on an electric drill motor. worked fine for me.

Doesn't matter when you do it, so long as you DO it. Probably easier to do with the pans out of the car. Easier access and all that. If you don't strip them and properly prepare them, you will be wasting your money on POR.

Oh, yeah. I forgot about that window. I was so wound up about trying to make the other one go away. BTW, I can think of at least 1000 reasons to buy the CD, and every one of them has a Nissan P/N. I hope people continue to buy it. I enjoy owning my copy.

I do know how to use a computer, but I do not know every single detail or option thing available on them. If the spreadsheet didn't go to full screen automatically, I could have closed it simply. I understand that "it doesn't do anything to your computer", however it do do something to ME. It cost me 20 minutes of unproductive time at work while I tried to get rid of the damn thing (didn't know about the F11 keytrick mentioned by Mr. Camo) and finally had to shut down and reboot the "antique" system (Pentium I - 66Mhz ) that I am stuck using at my workplace. Very Annoying. Why would somebody buy a Parts Fische CD based on a "Boss Key", I don't get it? Thats like buying a car based on the color of the building it's parked in front of. :stupid:

That's what I do anyway. By the time the "Boss" window opens your screwed anyway. YES! NO!

BE Careful using it. I tried to use it at work, and I could not close the spreadsheet window. I could open other windows over it, but the window was larger than the screen and the "X" in upper right corner was not visable and window could not be resized. I had to shut down my system to get rid of the damn thing. Good thing the "Boss" wasn't there or I'd have been screwed! For me, it's not worth the bother.