Bambikiller240

The FSM also calls the Front lower control arm the traverse link.

I trust that your son is uninjured, and still alive? Either by the acid or his father. Sorry to hear about your car damage. Hope that is all that was injured.

Might also try Andy Russell at e-mail addy: z@datsundude.com he's in Chandler, AZ and has great service and prices. He doesn't have a website yet, but I've dealt with him and can vouch for his service. Addendum to suggestion by 2ManyZs: Orchard Supply Hardware has lots of different thicknesses and constructions of sheet rubber (reinforced or not) at reasonable prices. Get a nice Xacto-Knife set and some sheet rubber and have at it.

Sorry, I can't help you as I'm in CA. However, we do have many members from the NY / North East area, perhaps some of them can advise you. Good Luck Carl

He means the actual Lower control arm, technically called the Traverse Link in the FSM. I don't know the answer for sure, but I BELIEVE that there are different P/N's for this part between 240Z and 280Z. Sorry I can't be of much help to you. Carl

Where are you located? There are many machine shops in the WORLD that can handle the job for you. Buying one from MSA only makes sense if there isn't a local shop that can do the job for you. Shipping costs will be EXPENSIVE! Remember, you have to pay for the one you buy to be shipped, AND you have to pay for your core to be shipped to them! They ain't light!

Same as screen name, see signature. Story behind it explained in Screen names thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=33057#post33057

I knew someone would understand that I wasn't just "bashing", merely wishing the fella some safety!

Cool! I just saved it. Someday it will make the rotation onto my screen. Thanks for posting it!

That Fella's not real bright, as that is an area frequented by Great White Sharks. One can only hope he's a Politican or a Lawyer!

I knew I had seen it somewhere, but I could not remember where. It's really inconvenient having my shop/work space clear across town. I have all my reference books there where I'l need them most, so at home I'm blind!

Doh! Got it, about 10 minutes before your post the light bulb finally went on. I gotta get that switch fixed! Thanks Rob! PS I sure wish I'd had the chance for an evasive maneuver on that one. I've dodged a few deer, possums, and raccoons before, but that damn minivan shut off my vision until the last instant. Bambi just barely made it in front of the car. Another second and It would have heard me coming and bolted in the other direction.

Too bad they didn't do it in the daylight. Watching two pair of taillights race is kinda boring. :sleepy:

I'll let the Limeys worry about traffic in London. Just imagine , the traffic may be getting better in the Bay Area! PS I said it was a joke! Carl PSS And why does a guy from Hot 'Lanta have the GG Bridge for an avatar?

Power wash it off first, then sandblast what you find underneath. If neighbor won't lend it, rent one for half a day!

Ah, the benefits of being a SUPERPOWER!!!!!!!!! LOL Now, take that as a joke, OK??

metalman5117 : Yeah, not too surprising, many (most?) of the finisher panels have been repainted by now, and the ones that haven't are often severely discolored from exhaust fumes, road grime, etc. You might try to look on www.Zhome.com to see if they show the formula to mix that paint. I'm not sure where on the site to look, but maybe someone else knows if it is there and where. Good Luck! Carl

Your initials are redundant???:cross-eye civ = Chuck I. Vigdor? Sorry Chuck, I don't understand what the 104 means.

It is also possible (In my mind probable) that the Previous Owner didn't install the vent hoses correctly, or capped off the vent hoses and thus your gas tank will suffer from trapped air which will prevent a full fill up. (the tank needs to "burp", but can't due to the missing or mis-routed vent lines) Only way to know for sure is to take out the interior panels in the back and compare the routing of the hoses to the diagrams shown in the FSM or another manual. Good Luck Carl

Hi Metalman: Les Cannaday at Classic Datsun Motorsports in Los Angeles area has spray (rattle) cans of the correct paint blend available. It is not a black, it's more like a dark grey. That is the only source that I know of for the correct paint. I'm not sure where you'd get the recipe to mix your own. Hope that Helps! Carl

The "How to Restore" by Wick Humble is a great book for restoration work. Some people like the Chilton's books and Clymer's too. Another one that many people like is the Haynes Manuals. The best to have is the Nissan Factory Service Manual for the year of car that you own.

Smokey: In addition to looking down into the engine compartment, look inside the wheel well in the location where the "back side" of the spot welds for battery support attachment are. (do you know what I'm trying to convey?) Depending on if there is undecoat you might be able to see if there has been any rust through. You can press on the metal to see if it flexes more than in places that are obviously solid, indicating that the area is getting thin, or weak from the corrosion. Also look at the frame rails from below, from directly below the battery all the way back to the support rail below the floorpan for signs of the green or white powdery substance.

Smokey: Sorry I missed your post earlier today. Rust from moisture is the typical "red" rust with no hints of "green or white fuzz" growing on the metal. If it is from moisture alone all you will see is the red flakey stuff that is the actual metal that is dissolving . The acid type of corrosion does turn the metal red and darker, but also the chemical reaction from the acid leaves residue in the form of the white and/or green powdery stuff. That is what signals acid corrosion. Sellers that know that they have, will tend to wash and brush the white and green off of the car, but within a few weeks or months it will reappear in the same spots. This is why I am so leary of rust on the battery area. Any hint of white or green powder makes me run in the other direction. It is SO hard to neutralize it all that on my previous Z they had to disassemble the entire front corner (inner fender, frame rail and rail under the floor pan. I had already removed the battery support) to stop the acid. Yeah, the later post you wrote today confirms tha the eBay car is not at all worth the asking price. Not even close. Skip that one and concentrate on a deal for the other car, or keep looking. Good Luck! Carl

I have ocean front property for sale in New Mexico if you are interested! Let me know!

Perhaps other have been able to remove the headlights from the front, but I've NEVER been able to do so. To Enrique's post, I'd add that when you do get the headlight buckets (acorns) off of the car, do yourself a favor and replace the phillips head screws with cap screws (preferably stainless steel ones) which use a allen wrench to install/remove. Next time that you need to get at the headlights your job will be much easier and you'll have far less likehood of stripping out the screw heads.