Bambikiller240

See my post back when the first auction was on for the reply I got from the seller. He said "This set up was designed specifically for the early Z cars, it uses a Bendex 4 big piston caliper set up from a 4x4 truck, vented rotors that I had slotted by a machine shop and all the spacers and hardware needed. As you can see I have this same set up on my $30K show car with a 3.2 stroker and it stops on a dime! This is a direct blot on in less then a hour .Good luck with your bid, its well worth ever penny, believe me only a few people have this set up, will you be one? "

Looks like the seller has the same "big brake" set up for sale again, only now his price has dropped to $450 with a "Buy It Now" of $500!!! (down from the previous starting at $600 and Buy It Now of $700) If it is still worth selling at these prices, one must assume that we were correct in our statements that the first auction was WAY OVERPRICED in spite of the protestations of some that the poor fellow needed to make a reasonable profit. Looks to me like it was an un-reasonable profit margin! The seller also seems to have changed his eBay name within the lst 30 days. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2406155064&category=33563

I used a drill to CAREFULLY drill a small hole in the screw heads then used my smallest E-Z OUT to remove them. Your "new ignition should have come with 2 new screws that have a "break-away" hex head to replace theose screws with. When you tighten the HEX head, it breaks off leaving you with those screw head that have no way to remove them. I recommend using some other screw instead of those in case you have to removed the ignition assy again. I use CAP screws (which require an allen wrench to remove) just to make removal more difficult for the average thief. Of course you could just use regular METRIC screws.

Hi Burt: It is called an AVATAR. From Main (Home) Page at the Club site, on the left side near the top is the "OPTIONS" Menu, select , "USER CP" that takes you to the User Control Panel page. On that page scroll to the bottom and select the button that says "CHANGE AVATAR ". That will take you to a page where you can select from a list of avatars that Mike offers OR you can scroll to the bottom of the page to the area called CUSTOM AVATARS to either upload an avatar from another website or (as most of us do) click the BROWSE button to select a picture from your own computer to upload to the club site. Note the size limitations mentioned below the words USE CUSTOM AVATAR. After you have selected the picture that you want to use, click the SUBMIT MODIFICATIONS button, your done! Depending on the picture that you choose you may need to re-size it to fit the 150 by 150 pixel limitation. That was the most difficult part for me. I stumbled my way through that, so I really can't offer intelligent directions on how to do that part, but I did use the MS PAINT program that came on my computer to manipulate the image size. Hope this helps you. Carl

He backed out already? The auction just ended last night (Thursday) at 9PM PST, or did you mean when the car was up for sale back in Oct 02?

Not all states are the same. There is currently a move afoot in the California State Legislature to change the current law which exempts pre-1975 cars from Smog testing/inspection requirements. (they are still required to have all original smog equipment installed, but if they don't inspect, who will ever know what you remove) They want to change the law so that cars have to be 45 years old before they become exempt from Smog inspection requirements. If they are successful, there will be a number if 240Z owners suddenly scrambling to find original smog equipment for their cars!

Well, somebody bought it for $2,025.00 Buyer has no feedback so he's a newbie to eBay. I wonder if he is a member of this club? Also wonder if he viewed thec ar in person. I never did get to view the car as my schdule got messed up and I could never get in touch with the seller. Hope it is worth it. I don't think it would have been worth that much to me, but then again I did not view the car in person, so who knows. PS: in doing a search to find this thread, I discovered a previous thread from Oct 02 where someone reported this same car for sale at $1800. Guess the seller is happy now!

Eric: I found this correction info on ZCar.com. It contains info from the author of the ZHome article that I refered you to. It exoplains the correction that you need to do to fix your problem. Good Luck, Carl ----------------------------------------------------------- from ZCar.com archives: The alternator you want will be from 78-280 or 79 and up 280zx. Internal regulated. Others likely from same year 810's or Maximas. Likely other Datsun/Nissans from same general years will work also. Go to Zhome.com and look under 'Index of Technical Articles' then scroll down to 'Engine' and under that find '280 alt. in early...' When you do this you may need to add a diode so the car will shut off after it is started. If so add this email response from Golik: Because of a minor wiring difference between late and early 240Z's, this can occur. However an electronic component called a diode can be used to prevent this. Obtain a 1N5062 (or equivalent) from your local electronics supply company. A diode has two leads, an anode lead and a cathode lead. The cathode lead is identified by a band near that lead. The diode can be mounted on the "dummy regulator" connector. Recall that Step four of my instructions was: 4. Connect the black with a white stripe wire to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V. This should now read: 4. Connect the anode of the diode to the black with a white stripe wire and the cathode of the diode to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V supply through the diode preventing reverse current from flowing. Good luck

It means UNCOMPRESSED. The engine is "slightly" off the centerline of the vehicle, thus the right spring was spec'd different on the 70-72 240Z's to accomodate the off center weight distribution. I have no idea why they stopped doing that, but one would suspect it was eventually deemed unnecessary. If it was for "driver weight" I'm sure it would have been considered. How tough is it to put the longer spring on the side of the driver of a LHD car? They did many other things to accomodate LHD that were far more difficult than "remembering" to put the long spring on the driver side..

BEST is defined differently by different people. 240Z's are the "lightest", they also have less horsepower than 280Z's, 280ZX's, and 300ZX's. They are (IMO) however the Original Z and only one that is a "real" Sports Car. ANY RUST is a concern. It doesn't get better by itself. Generally significant costs are involved in properly repairing rust. California has one of the best supplies of Z's that have minimal rust. Arizona and New Mexico are also good places to find a Z with minimal rust. You need to shop around and examine many cars with a fine toothed comb in order to find a car with minimal rust. Costs vary considerably. You can find 240Z's from $1000 to $8,000 and more. The more rust, and other "issues" a car has the lower the value. If the price is low there WILL be a reason (or two, or three) that it is low. If you can't see the reason(s), you need to look more carefully until you find it/them. There are lots of cars out there with electrical problems, body rot (rust), poor "restoration" work, tired engines, etc. What you pay will depend on how much of that stuff you are willing to live with. The best advice I can give you is: Look at every 240Z you can, and examine it COMPLETELY. Don't buy the first dozen cars that you look at. Use them to learn what to look for. Make notes and use them as a checklist for the next car(s) you look at. The more notes that you have of things to look for, the better prepared you are to buy the right car for you. Ask lots of questions and listen to the answers given, but only believe what you can see yourself and/or can have verified by people more knowledgeable than yourself. Lastly, DON"T BLINDLY TRUST THE SELLER, HIS JOB IS TO SELL HIS CAR! YOUR JOB IS DIFFERENT. TO BUY THE BEST CAR FOR YOUR NEEDS.

I like the Beatles, and have heard of that song. I'm not into hunting though. I "hunt" at Raley's (local grocey chain).

The lack of population would be one of the attractive attributes (to some of us) of Alaska, over places like Rhode Island, or Texas, or California. Many states could benefit from thinning the gene pool by 25 to 50%.

g260: As I understand your original post the only mod you did to the MX5 seats was to drill a hole in original MX5 rail, and you may cut off the end of the rail that sticks out. To fit one of the seats, (not sure if your car is RHD or LHD) you had to elongate the mount holes in the car. Can you post a poicture of the mods you had to do to the car itself to make this installation? Also, How tall are you? Most seat swaps in the US are a problem for us folks that are 6 feet tall as you end up with a seat that is too highfor comfort. Maybe , if you have time, you could do a Technical write up for Mike to post on the site for others?

Is that a "deer hunting" joke? I haven't heard of it before now.

I like the headlight covers too; but if you're just worried about the cracked headlght, why not replace the damaged headlight? The one headlight has got to be cheaper to replace than buying two covers. You can always get the clear or smoked covers later on. Am I missing something here? Carl

close enough

I haven't priced one, but I'd expect to pay well over $500 for a complete rebuild of a 5 speed in the Bay area. Call a local shop and ask. Estimates are free. If you're in the fremont area try Dando's.

Where in the SF area? What city? I'm in the SF Bay Area, but my work is so busy at this time of year that I can't get away long enough in the day to get to SF to do you any good.

Although, with women, sometimes it feels like "Can't live with them, STILL can't live witih them." When speaking of women, there seems to be a VERY few that don't eventually get around to the "game playing" that drives men NUTZ! Now I say that from the stand point of someone who 8 years ago thought he'd finally found a woman who hated the games as much as I did. After 7 years of a great relationship, suddenly those GAMES began to appear out of nowhere (well maybe it was menopause . Within a year, the relationship had to end. I just can't deal with that crap. Sorry to bore you guys with my opinion on this, but I can relate to ZmeFly's problem here. It is a tough call, but ultimately you have to do what makes YOU happy. No one else can do that for you.

This may be obvious, but the easiest way to confirm that, is to push in the clutch and let off the gas when you hear the tic noise. If it goes away, it is likely the exhaust leaking. If it doesn't change, (like on my car) it is related to "wheel rotation speed" and not the engine. The noise I was refering to on my car is definitely related to the rotation of the front wheel, not the engine.

Hmm,, I don't think the noise on my current car is coming from the dust shield. It could be, but on a previous Z I removed the dust shields to see if the noise I heard on that car was from it, and the noise continued. Kind of a strange situation. On my cars the noise is only noticable at low speeds. When I get up to about 20 or 25, I don't hear it any more. I usually hear it when making a turn from a stop light/sign. Gremlins!

Hi Burt: I do not know what this noise is, but I must admit that on occasion, I hear a similar sound from the front of my car when I have the window down. I also, used to hear it from other Z's that I've owned. I've checked to make sure everything is as it should be numerous times and cannot figure out what is the cause. But since everything seems to be OK, I've just come to accept it as a "normal" noise, and I don't worry any about it much. What do you think it might be? I'd still like to find the cause. Carl

Geez, alfadog, I hate to disagree with you on another thread, but................ Good Show Rick!, Thanks!

They may be successful in their own eyes, but I do not believe that Mercedes and BMW feel that Infinity and Lexus automobiles are in any way equal to their own products. Certainly not equal in terms of quality. Though I do not have figures to back this up, I do not believe that Lexus or Infinity sell anywhere near the number of vehicles that Mercedes or BMW sell either. JMO Carl

Granted, but he was successful in what he set out to do, just as Nissan, and Toyota have been successful in their chosen effort to sell the same platform to a different market segment. I'm not condoning anything that either Hitler or Nissan, or Toyota have done. Just pointing out that "success" does not necessarily mean the project is worth recognizing as beneficial, useful, or anthing else. Success is in the eye of the beholder. It means many things to many people. I think Toyota, and Nissan have been successful at making a certain segment of the population feel that a Toyota (or Nissan) with a bunch of extra "do-dads" added to it, is something different than the Toyota or Nissan that it really is. A turd with frosting on it is still a turd!