Bambikiller240

I don't know if it was a GL or not, but it was not reported as a 2+2 ....and an fugley body style (better drag coefficient or not) Aw, come on, anyone as into porn as Pee Wee can't be ALL bad!

Can any one tell me from experience what to expect to pay for an L24 Short Block Rebuild? Using my own block (no core charge), standard rebuild, no extras, nothing fancy, just a good solid short block rebuild. I'd add the timing stuff and head, and install in the car. Thanks. Carl :classic:

So, How does one tell an Aussie from a Non-Aussie? Hopefully it doesn't involve turning him upside down and checking body parts!

The information below was gleaned from ZHome.com with sources listed. Data was compiled by Dr. Donn Vickrey IZCC#443 Year / Model-------------------70Z-------------------------79ZX 0 to 60 time =-----------------7.8sec.---------------------9.4 sec. 1/4 mile time =--------16.1 sec. @ 87 mph------17.0 sec @ 83 mph Lateral G = ------------------.78-------------------------.76 g (C/D 4/79) Braking from =----------80 mph in 259 ft.----------70 mph in 206 ft. Top Speed =--------------109 mph*------------------118 mph** Peak H.P =-------------151 @ 5600 rpm----------135 @ 5200 rpm Peak Torque =---------146 @ 4400 rpm----------144 @ 4400 rpm Curb Weight =----------2330 lbs.-----------------------2970 lbs. Source - ----------Car & Driver 6/70-------------- Car & Driver 4/80 * 70 Z equiped w/ 4 speed manual ** 79 ZX equiped w/ 5 speed manual BTW Many of us who enjoy 240Z's feel that long before 1978 the "Z" breed had morph'd into something other than the Sports Car it was when introduced in late 1969. The introduction of the ZX in 1979 simply completed the transformation into a "Boulevardier" /GT car by replacing the smooth, flowing lines of the S30 with the more angular, dare I say boxy lines of the Z31.

We do! :classic:

Ah, Yes, I do remember (now) although I had forgotten. Cool! I await the "official" announcement. Psst! Congrats!

You can't return the XR700 after installation, even if you wanted to do so. (register the warrenty with Crane also!) You would definitely be wise to carry those parts (and the tools to install) with you. Remember, if the car starts suddenly dying, then will start up after a few minutes and run fine; only to repeat symptoms periodically.....it's the power transistor in the XR black box. Real tough to troubleshoot.

I'm sure SOMEBODY will buy it, but it sure as hell won't be ME!:tapemouth Learned my lesson the first and ONLY time!:stupid:

George: Are you going to tell us about the new Z you've purchased? Inquiring Minds want to know! Carl

That's exactly how I felt after I took 6 months to decide which unit to buy in the first place, then had perpetual difficulties with my XR700 I know what you mean. I'm sure she meant well, but......... Sorry, for the "rain", but I'd rather you were warned of the dying out problem, than discover it yourself. It put me some really dangerous situations in the couple of weeks it took me to figure out what was causing the issue. Yes, I think that you can get it better adjusted so you can get it home. The LED in the optical trigger needs to shine through the window (cut-out) of the shutter that mounts below the rotor EXACTLY when the rotor is connecting to the contacts on the cap for the individual spark plug wires. I had to re-read the directions several times to get it right. I'm sure that many have been happy with it. I was told that the XR700 is actually a unit that was one of the first, and most popular electronic ignitions sold back in the 70's (sold then as "Allison" brand and since then sold to Crane). The design has been sold for many years.

The answer is going to depend on what YOU want in a car. The 70-73 240Z's were the smallest, lightest, most nimble of the Z's. Also they had the least creature comforts. They were the only ones that I'd classify as a "Sports Car". Of these years the 72 is generally considered the "best" due to changes (improvement) to the differential mount location, and less smog crap. The 74 - 78 260Z and 280Z's were larger, heavier, had more creature comforts ( more insulation/sound deadening material A/C, F/I in the later years, 5 speed trans, and 2+2 models available). The transition from Sports car to GT was happening. The 79 - 83 280ZX's were even larger than the 280Z's, heavier still, the engine with the siamesed cylinders is a more durable design but I don't believe has much, if any, more power, except when TURBO'd (tighter smog rules kept that from happening) The suspension is considerably different and less "sports car like". IMHO, these cars are Gran Touring cars,"boulevardiers" best suited for highway and cruising around town in style. I'm wearing my Nomex 'jammies, so let the FLAMES begin!

Hi Jeremiah: Though this probably isn't what you want to hear at this point, I'll toss it out there. When I installed my XR700, I had a heck of a time getting the "optical trigger unit" positioned correctly so that the engine ran with any power. Once I did, it would run great for about a month or so. Then, I'd have to adjust the position again. This would happen over, and over. I used "Red Loctite" on the screws to try to keep things from moving around, but it didn't help much. Finally, after about a year the engine developed a habit of "suddenly, completely dying, as if the key had been turned off" while driving down the road/freeway. I had some VERY scary situations develop as a result of this. The XR700 power transistor had packed up. I replaced it with a Pertronix Ignitor, which was 500% easier to install, had no bulky "box" to find a place to mount, peforms 100% better (IMHO), and has continued to function flawlessly for two years while needing NOTHING from me in that time. If I had it to do over again, I'd have bought a Pertronix Ignitor in the first place. The Crane XR700 that I had was not worth the bother. BTW, the Pertrnix was CHEAPER to buy than the XR700. sign me, VERY disappointed with my Crane XR700 purchase

I've got this Pick-Up Truck with "the strongest and most durable of ANY" of the Chevy motors, I've gutted the truck but it still doesn't have the performance that I want so now I'm looking to find a Corvette body to stuff the engine into. I wish I'd bought a 'Vette in the first place.....

You do realize that you are asking questions about a car (280ZX) that not many of us own, right? I hope you find the answer you are looking for, but we are much more knowledgable about 240,260, and 280Z's, since that is the model car that our club is all about. The ZX is a far different car. If you don't get the answer that you need here, I can suggest signing up for the IZCC Mailing list at www.zhome.com . They have a much broader focus and can probably help you more on issues regarding the 280ZX. Good Luck! (Are you sure that you wouldn't rather have a Classic Z?)

Not that it matter's any, but that is a "capacitor", not a resistor. It's function is to suppress noise for the radio as described. You'll notice several of those in the engine compartment of early (240)Z's. One is the "condenser" mounted on the distributor, and there is usually another mounted on the driver side inner fender near the ballast or coil.

I'm no expert, but that does not look like I remember my original radio, and I've never EVER heard of an 8 track radio being available in any version of 240Z from the factory.

Well, I finally was able to view the entire Z Car show that played on the History Channel last Saturday in the US. I was somewhat disappointed at the lack of depth of the information presented, but I guess that my expectations are higher than the average (non Z fanatic) History Channel viewer. My favorite parts were the interviews with Mr. K and the racing sequences. The tape of the show is worth keeping, but it really just whetted my appetite for a better video with more information.

Hi George: I see, I was thinking of the cushioned dealer add-on for your armrest. Let us know which you use, as I need to do that to the lettering on my glove box door. BTW, the lettering on the glove box is white, but the logo is silver.

Hi George: The only advice I can off er is to test on a small area that is not visable as either the paint or pens may have solvents in them that could disolve the vinyl. I'd be very careful. You are talking about the cushioned vinyl lid, right? Not the plastic console itself.....? My console lid didn't have a silver line so you must have a different type of lid than I do.

.....traitor! (you'll be back to the original)

I believe thatyou mentioned on the email list that you are an ASU student. That's good. Look for a car with a RUST FREE body which shouldn't be too difficult in AZ. The mechanical side of the car is easier, and in most cases cheaper to deal with than a car with a rotted body. RUST is the DEVIL on Z cars.

Hi Wilbur: When my clutch was replaced (two years ago), this problem became apparent, so Kim Blough of Idaho Z Cars installed an steel bushing (he said he "bronze welded" it) in my pedal arm. I'm not sure where one would find that, but hopefully it won't be too difficult. The hole should be 8mm dia. maybe McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ or call Kim Blough in Idaho at 208-890-6454 Cell # On my car the clevis pin was also deformed from usage, so I replaced it with a new one and everything has been fine since then.

He is wrong regarding 72 and 73 240Z's in the US market (the only ones I know about) On the earlier seats with the knob, the knob should be next to the transmission tunnel ; but for the later seats with the recline LEVER, it should be on the outside, near the door. ...and then of course there is the Ultimate Authority from Nissan...........If you have Mikey's Parts CD you can verify for yourself. See Page 122A-6 items #17 (RH i.e. Passenger seat) and #19 (LH i.e. Driver seat) That guy is pulling something. Not sure if it's your leg or his own......

Wilbur: You are correct, that spring ensures positive release so that the T.O. bearing doesn't rest against the fingers of the pressure plate. One other thing to check, and it is easy to do; is to look under the dash at the clutch pedal, where the arm from the master cylinder connects to it. There is a hole in the pedal arm where the master cylinder connects via a clevis pin. Over time that hole in the pedal arm can get deformed (i.e. elongated, so it is no longer round, but is oval). When this happens, a great amount of pedal movement is used to take up the slack (caused by the ovalled hole) before the pedal movement is translated into movement of the clutch master cylinder to move fluid in the system. Operate the pedal by hand while observing the amount of pedal movement before the master cylinder begins to be operated. If the hole is ovalled, you can either find a better one at a junk yard or have a bushing with an 8mm hole welded into your pedal to restore it to proper dimensions. If that is needed, and you can't find someone to fix your pedal; I can direct you to the place that I sent my pedal for refurbishment.