Bambikiller240

I just sent a question to the seller, asking for details of what he is offering. If he responds (which I doubt) I'll post the reply. I think he's an "eBay Miner", digging for gold.

I dare you to take that statement to an Infinity dealership and tell that to the Sales Manager! This maybe true in Arkansas, but it isn't in the Mustang clubs that I'm familiar with in California. Of course some people still believe that Clinton didn't inhale too!

Hi All: I believe that Steve's original question related NOT to this 'Classic Z"club or website, but rather to his "Central Coast Z Car Club" if I am not mistaken. (We seem to be in a different thread, now) I agree with "go z racer, go" (and his articulate and well thought-out response) on this one. Corvette clubs do not welcome Camaro owners... There are "Chevrolet" clubs for people who own both types of cars to join if they wish to "hang" together. Mustang clubs don't embrace Pinto owners, etc. Most clubs DO offer exclusivity to a greater or lesser degree. That is most definitely a part of their attraction. This "i think if you own any car in a related group of cars, you should be allowed in a particular club (i.e. you own a skyline, or 510, you should be allowed in the Z club)" philosophy; is to me, a bunch of New Age, all inclusive, "We are the World" Hooey. It waters down the value of such clubs and the service and value they provide to members. I have nothing in common with a Skyline owner. Those cars are fantastic, and I'd love to own one, but if I did own one I would not want to join a Z Club, I'd join a Skyline club.

This discussion just goes to show that terms such as Light, Heavy, Minor, or Major rebuild can mean different things to different people throughout the world. It should (if nothing else) teach us that it is best to describe in full SPECIFIC detail what we expect a shop to do for us, or when asking a question of a mechanic or member of these forums to state EXACTLY what we are talking about and to avoid such vague terms as those described above. or as Michael Jackson says..."Different Strokes for Different Kids, errr, Folks" :stupid:

My point exactly!

So what do you do for a MAJOR rebuild? A light rebuild and Paint the block?

NOT AT ALL! But when you ask people who don't work on 510's what can and cannot be done to them, you will not get educated answers. The people who can tell you what parts of ANY car can be adapted to a 510 are those who work on 510's. They do it, we do not. We adapt things (like V8's etc) to be used on 240Z-280Z's. And not much of what is on a 510 would be desirable on a Z car. You can't "upgrade" a sports car with parts from a sedan (Nissan tried that with the 260/280Z 2+2). You can upgrade a sedan with parts from a sports car (BRE and other 510 OWNERS did THAT quite sucessfully). Surely you can see that? PS I suspect there is a little "WalMart" in all of us!

Take a can opener to one (like what was done to the car in your avatar) and you might find some differences. If you want to call the club a "Z Club" ya can't invite cars that aren't "Z's" into it. It should be EXCLUSIVELY for Z's A Name is a Name is a Name. If you want it to be a "Car Club" then invite any Porsche, Yugo, Fiat, Hyundai, Subaru, Volvo, etc to join; just don't call it a "Z Club", cause it ain't!

If it ain't a "Nissan" (and an Infinity ain't a Nissan any more than a Nissan is a Renault!), it can't be a "Z". Of course if you just want members, it's your club. Is a Pontiac Firebird a Chevy Camaro? Is a Mercury Cougar a Mustang? Similar isn't the same.

Gav240z: I'd think that seals would be more likely to be the culprit, though I am by no means an expert. ZmeFly, and others who actually earn a living working on cars may have differing opinions on this, and I'd of course defer to them. Carl

Just thought I'd mention that Polyethylene, and Polyurethane are two different (though probably related) substances. Now I DO NOT KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THEM, nor do I know anything about either of them, except that I'm fairly pleased with the ride and handling of my car with the Polyurethane bushings. Of course the previous 240Z that I owned was built as an autocross special with solid aluminum/delrin bushings, and THOSE puppies really gave a harsh ride I can tell you. The ones on my current Z are "night and day" different from those aluminum/delrin jaw-breakers. I'd describe the polyurethane ones as very firm. Not trying to talk anyone into anything, just mentoning the *slight* difference in materials mentioned above.

Not sure what HE means by a light rebuild, but if I used that term, I'd mean just rebuilding the cylinder head and replacing the timing chain, gears, and tensioner. (maybe the oil pump and water pump too) If I started replacing the piston rings and the rod, and main bearings, and the rear main seal; I'd call that a major rebuild. Just my $.02 USD Carl

The engine is a similar design. (2/3rds of a L24) and there may be some parts that are interchangeable, but the 510 sites will know what those are, where we can only guess. They are the ones that interchange those parts that can be interchanged. It's not that you aren't welcome here, but overall THEY know your car (and what can and cannot be swapped) far better than we do. We can help you a bit, but they can REALLY help you! It is sort of like the difference between a general mechanic and a ferrari specialist. Both can change spark plugs but the guy at the Walmart shop wouldn't know where to look for the plugs on a Ferrari. That may be a bit over dramatic, but you get the idea of what I mean, right?

I'm sure you'll be able to help many of us as time goes on. You've already helped me with the bumper rubbers! Regards, Carl

The L16 never appeared in a Z, it is one that was standard in the "Bluebird" or "510" Datsuns. Basically 2/3's of an L24 if you want to look at it that way.

Hi Burt: The potential for the alignment to change is certainly there, when changing the strut cartridges out. I would never do such work without having the alignment checked afterwards. (how much do you value the new tires you just bought?) With todays "computer" alignment racks, it doesn't take long for your tire shop to check it out for you, and provide a printout. If you do your work cleanly enough, you might be able to just take the car to them without mentioning what you've done and tell them that the the car "feels funny" and ask for them to check it out. Of course you have to be able to trust the shop to not feed you a line of BS to generate income for themselves. You only need the front-end checked as the rear wheel alignment cannot be adjusted on a stock 240Z. Good Luck! Carl

Instead of guessing, why don't you ask them what they will charge to do it. Also, they SHOULD be able to get it out and an new one for you without buggering up your head. A definite risk that you (as one who is inexperienced this this probem, like most of us) will run. Last time I needed this help (with broken extractor, just like yours) the shop didn't even need to helicoil the hole, they managed to get it out properly. Theyknow the tricks as they encounter this very often. IT NEVER HURTS TO ASK WHAT THEY CAN DO FOR YOU. Just my $.02, of course it's your money (and your head, or what will be left of it, if you screw it up) Carl

Since the people who frequent this site are 240Z thru 280Z owners, you may find more useful information from another website where people who have a car like yours gather. Check out: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/ and http://www.510again.com/ These clubs and others like them will provide you a wealth of information that frankly isn't available here, since 99% of us do not have a car like yours. ASK US ABOUT Z'S and you'll get a lot of advice and experienced answers!

If you are going to have the head rebuilt, just take the head to the machine shop and let them deal with it. They will not charge much to fix this and it will save you the headache. On the other hand if you are just replacing the studs and are leaving the head on the block...........good luck. Follow the advice given by others, as you really only have the two options available. carl

Andrew: My early 72 240Z (mfg in 11/71) has the pockets for the retractable belts but did not come with them. It had the regular belts that bolt to the rocker area with one bolt. I just replaced them with a set of nice retractable ones, so I can confirm that you can use either type of belts. If you go looking for used belts to purchase, you'll soon discover that the "non-retractable" ones are FAR cheaper to purchase than a decent set of "retractable" ones. It's your choice as either will work, but if you want retractable ones that function properly, be prepared to pay a lot for them, as most are rusty messes after 30 years of exposure to moisture that gets into the pockets from below. Just my $.02 Carl

They exist but are as rare as unicorns! and the Lord said, "Let there be Light!" Welcome to the Club! Now, get out there and buy some tools and a factory manual!

I don't see anyone named Larissa in that document? Am I looking in the wrong place or???????????

The item you describe is the "smog" pump. Depending on where you live, it may be necessary to retain this item in order for your car to pass Emissions inspections. I do not believe that your engine will suffer if it is removed. I believe that MSA in Los Angeles (and maybe others) can get you a rebuilt pump if your locale requires it to be retained to pass emissions inspections. It does not "act(s) as a Anti Backfire valve, check valve, and an air pump relief valve" ; rather those separate items are located "downstream" of the pump. In other words they are mounted up near the intake manifold connected by hoses to the output of the pump, where the partially burned hydrocarbons that the pump sucks out of the engine crankcase are forced back into the exhaust manifold where they are more completely burned to minimize some components of "smog".

Alfadog, I'd be more interested in Larissa's "Rack". :stupid: Any photo's of those?? :stupid: