Bambikiller240

Cause he's a Wino!!! That fact also explains why he is attending the Wiggles concert in Santa Barbara tonight!

I prefer the Libre Wheels (after my favorite Panasports, which BTW are less difficult to clean than you might imagine) in 14" x 6" size. 15" rims will give you more options for performance tires, but since you chose not to use urethane bushings, I'm thinking performance wheels would not be a major priority for this car. Your (our) options for wheels are limited due to the offset requirements of the Z which are far different from the modern cars currently produced. Let us know what you choose, Burt! Carl

On a car that is approximately 30 years old, almost any bolt or stud could snap off. Especially thermostat housing, or intake/exhaust manifold bolts/studs. Soak any bolt or stud that you will need to loosen with your favorite penetrating oil before starting the project. Regarding the carbs, most dealers will not be knowledgable about SU carburetors, they won't have much if any experience with them. Better to find a local auto shop that specializes in Sports cars, or classic cars. Take your time, and BE CARFUL!

pardon my ignorance, I've not been exposed to the Wiggles except the discussion in this and the previous thread about them. I thought you were suggesting more late night snack foods Carl

Smokey: Rust under the battery tray unless VERY minor (just getting started) will be difficult to eliminate (read EXPENSIVE ). The battery acid that causes it tends to seep down into the frame rail where it will eventually destroy the rail (and probably part of the firewall, and inner fender) from the inside out. If you are seriously thinking of aquiring this car, have it looked at by the best body shop you can find and listen to their advice. I had a 71 Z car with rust in this area and the only way it finally got stopped was to have the entire right side of the car from the firewall forward removed, treated, rewelded to the car while on a frame jig. Keep your ....... open! May need to talk to the wife about twins if the car's gonna need significant body work after paying $11K for it.

I think it is his wine rack (celler?)

post to wrong thread????

http://www.thewiggles.com/

Dwight: I've seen this fellow's website, and from the photo, they are not OEM rear springs. I believe that he advertises them as stiffer that stock springs, but not lowering the car. Did he give you any specs on the spring rate, or anything? Carl EDIT: Nevermind, I checked the site and they are 200 lbs/in for Rears and 180 lbs/in for Fronts.

Charlie Osborne of Zedd Findings in Canada is the place to buy your floor and frame rail parts. Check out the link below: http://www.datsunzparts.com/start.htm

Yes, They should be open to allow for drainage of any water that gets into those "rails".

It only take 15 seconds to click on the link and for the page to load! (about the same time it took to ask the question):pirate:

What year is the car? How many miles on the engine? Is there anythjing else wrong with the car, besides the few missing parts that you mentioned, and the transmission? Just trying to get a clear understanding of what the car IS and IS NOT.

or get invited to a Bathhouse in SF!

Greg (Smokey): I'd be curious too. Of course I'm a pessimist. Could be he's run out of $, or financial situation has changed, or maybe he's decided Z's aren't for him. On the other hand, maybe he's found something he doesn't want to deal with on the car. Any extra time you spend examining the car will not be wasted, so take your time. What I did when I was looking for a car was to make a list "as detailed as possible" of things to check. I mean EVERYTHING I could think of, down to the smallest detail, then I used that as a check list while inspecting. Physically checked off each item and wrote brief notes on anything out of the ordinary. The looked the list over after I got away from the car and the seller. It helped me to really know what I was getting myself into. Just a thought. Carl

Ouch. Sorry to hear about the job situation. I've been there a few times myself and know a bit of how you must feel. On the bright side, A guy with your obvious talents would be a valuable asset to many companies out there. Here's hoping that this situation leads you to a better position wherever you decide to live. Wishing the BEST for you! Carl

How handy with electrical issues are you? I wonder what he means by "the fuse box needs to be gone through". Is it melted from current overload (or high rersistance)? Or is it just that the fuses are bad (and why are they)? Which terminals are oxidized? Battery terminals? Fuse box terminals? EVERY terminal throughout the car? Has the electrical system been butchered (mods, cut/spliced etc) by someone who (like me) doesn't know beans about auto electrical systems. I, myself; am always worried by "electrical issues". Of course, I don't know JACK about electirical systems so any problem is a big one for me. The photos posted don't show the Quarter panel that was replaced. Look it over real good. I'll let Enrique and other "body guru's" advise you on what to look for. Don't count it out yet, but examine it carefully. Look under the dash to see if there is evidence of wiring being butchered. Splices, disconnected wires, the wiring loom opened, etc. Be as thorough as possible in your inspection. Buy with your mind, not your heart. Carl

Yeah, get a flat tire and miss the show. Changing a flat in the dark, on a freeway has got to be more enjoyable than watching the show!

But, she likes water, honest . Especially now that the POR15 is protecting her "bottom". I did the test in July 2002 cause I couldn't wait until winter for real rain. I hope she does out live me, I'm just afraid that one of my CA redneck brothers will inherit her and mount "long horns" on the hood. PS Steve forgot to mention that my last words in life were also "QUACK!"

Or you can upgrade your existing distributor to be "pointless" with a PERTRONIX Ignitor kit. http://www.pertronix.com/ignition/ignitor/index.htm

Mike: Are you leaving the USA? Carl

On Bambikiller, the water coming inside the cabin (which started to trash my floorpan) appeared to come from the windshield, but in fact was the result of bad door weather seals. I discovered the real culprit by covering the floor pan with paper towels and parking the car under a lawn sprinkler for 15 minutes to simulate rain. The only wet spot was right next to the door sill at the front mount for the seat. You don't want to use a nozzle on a hose to wet the car because that will force water in through places it normally can't enter through.

It might also be the Transmission. Better rebuild that too while you're at it!! Carl

You didn't mention any alterations to the car, but I'm wondering......Have you recently changed the car to an internally regulated altenator? If so, did you install the diode needed for this modifuication to work correctly. carl

That is what I was thinking as well. Even the Euro (clear) lens sold by Troy at Too Intense Resto are mounted in the standard location below the bumper/headlights in the corner pieces of the front valance. Carl