Bambikiller240

It looks too good for $1500. Does it have a salvage title or something? Maybe it's just me, but.........every Z I've found in that price range has been either a major rust bucket or had a "front clip" grafted onto a wrecked Z body, or some other severe problem. I wish you luck on this, but keep your eyes open! Buy with your brain & not your heart. Carl

You really should share whatever it is that you've been smoking with the rest of us! LOL

Probably were recovered by a local upholstery shop. Many of us back in the day would have them redone locally and almost all of those were done without the breathers (vents).

I didn't see a Haynes Manual in your picture. They are handy to have also. Not necessary, but very handy & helpful. Be Careful with the Spring Compressor Take your Time, Examine each item before you disassemble Use the Correct Tools in the correct manner TORQUE everythig properly If anything is questionable, fix it NOW. Use the Torch outside & Have a bucket of water handy Stop and ask questions when needed DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME! Good luck!

I THOUGHT so, but; heck I've been wrong before.

Don't assume anything, INSPECT IT AGAIN, CAREFULLY!

If you decide to keep the car, I'd be filing a claim for damage in shipment with the carrier. That rear frame damage looks nasty, though it probably doesn't affect safety or strength of the unibody. It should not have happened and they should PAY for their mistake.

Absolutely agreed. I wonder how much you'd have to pay the guy that did kats dash, and whether you'd be sending it back in a year or two to have another (different) crack repaired, since it's a 30+ year old item. I'd juxt go for a properly fitted dash cap unless I needed a concourse quality dash, then, I just bite the bullet and pay JustDashes what they want for a completely recovered unit before I'd spend $800 for an NOS (mfg'd long ago, and stored god knows where, or how) Nissan Dash. To Each His Own.

That's right, I forgot about kats dash modification. That one DID come out looking very good. Of course, kats lives in Japan, so shipping the dash to Japan for repair and back isn't going to be cheap either.

Someone has used the floorpan rail as jack-point withtheir hydraulic floorjack. Should have used the front cross-member as a jack point, but even with that, if you/he/anyone places their jackstands on these rails they will deform somewhat. I place my jackstands on the rails up forward near where the tension/compression rods are located. It appears to be a much stronger location. If you don't mind, can you post a link to the auction page so we can see pictures of the entire car. What was the sellers eBay name?

Full Dash Cap. I've never seen a dashboad that has been repaired that didn't look like it had been repaired. Most attempts end up looking like crap IMO. Even the best "repairs" look like a SCAB on your (pick one) favorite body part. Of course, you could spend many hundreds of dollars at a place like http://www.justdashes.com/index_home.htm

Daniel: You certainly could be right on that. I've never owned any Z, but 240Z's (I've had 71,72,73's), but had always heard tha the 280 was the first FI Zcar. Since the late 74 260 was "almost a 280" in that it had the newer body, it could have had FI as well. I hope someone who knows definitively clears it up for us .

Can anyone hear Forrest Gump??? Someone bring something like that into my neighborhood, and I'll be doing "further modifications" to their car. "Homey Don't Play That!"

Ah, Yes. We have all of the rust free cream puffs! Too bad that you can't move here and enjoy them. California is FULL and we're not accepting anymore "Pilgrims" :stupid:

Smokey: Carbs alone will not do it. They will make a difference, but the cylinder head is IMO the major reason for the loss in HP. The E88 head used for the 73 cars is a lower compression design the an the E88 head used for 72 cars. The photo attached to my previous post from Zhome.com shows the combustion chamber design for the 72 E88 and indicates the difference between it and the E88 used for 73 cars. Until you raise the compression ratio, you will have somewhat less power than the earlier cars

Yeah, maybe then we wouldn't have his PINHEAD son trying to force the US into a battle that the rest of the world doesn't seem prepared to support the US in fighting. We should have taken Saddam out the first time.

IMO, It looks like it's worth that much. I wouldn't mind having it myself. Let us kow what Mr. Vest says about it!

Thanks for posting the files Steve. Yeah, those are nice looking wheels. For my car, I'd do the centers in black or MAYBE body panel colored and polish the rims.

Many THANKS!!!!!!!!

So Mike, How do we get the electrical diagram of the 72 240Z? I'd like to get one if I can. Carl

If you encounter the advert for this company again, PLEASE post the contact information about them to the site. There are lots of us who might be interested in a stainless replacement tank for our cars. You'd be doing the company AND all of us a huge favor if you can help us connect. Thanks,Carl

I still cannot see the pictures. I've refreshed the page, right clicked on the button(s) and selected "Show Picture" but still nothing. Anyone else having a problem seeing the wheel pictures from steve, or is it just me?

Stryder: All 240Z's manufactured for the US market from 8/72 on came from the factory with flat-top carbs. They were standard from the 1973 models(from VIN# HLS30-120000 on) until fuel injection was introduced in the 280Z's. A very few customers who complained of drivability problems were able to convince dealers to (illegally) replace them with Round Tops, but the vast majority of 240Z's manufactured from 8/72 on that have Round Tops, have had them installed by owners. There are two two types of E88 cylinder heads used on 240Z's. The early (72) model had a small combustion chamber design similar to the E31 heads. The later (73) E88 head was a lower compression design. The only way to tell which kind of E88 you have is to remove it and examine the chambers. Since your car has had the carbs changed, it is possible that the head was changed to the earlier model as well. Quoted from ZHome.com: "The E31 head was used on the 1970 and 1971 Model Year Z's. There are at least two E88 heads. One was used on the 1972 Model Year Z's and the other was used on the 1973 240Z and the 1974 260Z. For performance applications the 1972 E88 is considered a better design, thus yeilding better flow than the later E88's. You can spot the E31 and early E88 heads because they have a distinct notched area just to one side of the spark plug hole. The later E88's lack this notched area and are smooth on both sides."

Steve: Pictures are NOT showing up. Carl

Or SOUTH Carolina either!!!!!!!!!!