Bambikiller240

Eric: Most common places for rust are the engine compartment under the battery (very bad place and diffcult to repair if severe); the rocker panels under the doors and along the sides of the car (expensive to replace unless you have the skills and equipment cause it's a cut out & weld-in job), floorpans (for the same cut / weld reasons). spare tire well (ditto), and rear hatch area right above the taillights (ditto). I always bring a plastic type refridgerator magnet with me and carefully place it on the doors, fenders, rear quarter panels and anyplace else I think may have been damaged and repaired. If it sticks, you're OK, if not it means that there is BONDO hiding there. I'm not sure, but I've heard that the rear quarter panels are no longer available from the factory and the rear panel that encompasses the entire rear-end of the car is definitely NLA so keep that in mind if there is body damage to be fixed. REMEMBER: These cars are UNIBODY cars so the body is the FRAME! Examine the car from inside (under the floor mats) and underneath the car to see if there is rust through. Look under the dash as much as possible to see if there are signs that the wiring has been boogered up by the PO. Observe every electrical item to see if it works. Look for leaks at engine, transmission, and differential. Ask if you can have a compression and or leakdown test done on the engine. EXAMINE EVERYTHING ON THE CAR. Bring a clipboard and write down everything you see (good or bad) Don't make your decision on first examination, take your notes home, read them, ask more questions of our members or wherever you can, think about it, inspect again, then decide. Good Luck Carl

Hi Burt: Yess, I do want them. You were going to get back to me on how we can do it since you don't have a PayPal account. Let me know. Carl The only place I've seen over-rider bars is on eBay. About once a month I see someone with either a NOS one or one removed from a car that is up for auction. Good Luck!

Have you tried Courtesy Nissan in Richardson TX? http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/ Parts: 800-527-1909 / 972-644-3942 Email: sales@courtesyparts.com If it can be had, they usually have it or will get it. Carl

Steve: Try "Goo-Gone" adhesive remover. I find it in Orchard Supply Hardware here in No. Cal. Test on inconspicuous area before doing whole area. Corrosion can set in if wheels are not kept polished or re-treated with something to seal the metal from moisture and air.

see Ross at http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php for upgrade brake packages and parts and information

Or to dangle them from their testicles! :devious: Maybe THAT would teach them a lesson about how "they are the ones people want."

I've not done it, since I have a 240Z only, but I've read on the IZCC list of people doing it. If I recall correctly, you need the brackets etc from the 240, but it's not supposed to be that difficult to do. I don't think you'd have to change the valance "so you would have blinkers/parking lights". The light are in the grille area and shouldn't be affected by the change of bumper (I think).

Me neither, but I do know one thing.....................It would NOT have those UGLY bumpers anywhere near the car when I was done. Yeeccchhh!!!!!

XYZ: here's a copy of a post to the 240z.org mail list that I saved a year or so ago. I haven't tried this yet, but will in the future unless I find some great replacement panels at a cheap price. From craig001@mc.duke.edu -- What do you do when the chrome strips on your interior door panels peel off and the cool blue color underneath isn't cutting it any more? OK, since y'all are my dearest friends in the whole wide world and have taught me so much about my Z, here is my door panel chrome strip restoration tip. I have never seen this one posted anywhere so apologies to anyone who thinks it's THEIR tip: Get a roll of the shiniest aluminum tape you can find. I've seen it at hardware stores and I got mine from the company that makes tubular skylights (SolarTube). Cut a strip along the edge that is about 8 to 10 mm wide and a little longer than the formerly chrome strip. Use a straight edge and razor and do a neat job. Don't kink the tape. Clean the area where you are going to apply the tape. Start at one end and peel about 10 inces of the backing from the tape, stretch it a bit and stick it to the top of the ridge. Run your finger along it to smooth it and stick it down. Do this along the whole length of the door panel ridge. Then smooth it down the sides of the ridge, again working from one end to the other. Try not to get any wrinkles. If you mess it up, peel it off and try with a new piece of tape. When it is all stuck down, trim the ends with a razor. DONE! You're gonna love this so much you'll want to send me lots of money (hint, hint Damian 71

beandip: KYB struts are of average, decent quality. They ain't adjustable Tokiko Illumina's by any means, but at $37 ea, that's a great price. I paid $50 each for my KYB's. If you do AUtocross or Track Days, I'd consider a better strut, but for a street only car that doesn't require MAXIMUM performance, most people would be satisfied with KYB's. I don't know the Ishino brand for gaskets, so can't speak to that issue. I haven't used the site that you refer to, but I've seen their prices and will consider them next time I need some parts. They are in some way connected to TOP END Performance in So Cal which has a decent reputation. Carl:geek:

Hi Burt: I would like to get those bumper strips from you for $50. Do you have a PayPal account that I could send payment to? You can send me a Private message with contact or other information on how we can do this deal. I'm going to be away from the computer for a few hours tonight & will get back to you late this evening or tomorrow. Thanks, Carl

Glad to hear your project is moving forward. Now, how about sharing the name of the body shop that you chose, and the reasons for choosing them. There are more than a few of us in the Bay Area that would like to know who they can take their car to for a Quality job. I'm assuming tht you chose them for a "Quality" job and not a Maaco quicky

July 10th - 13th, 2003 Mt. Shasta All-Datsun Meet -- For more information, contact Dennis or Peggy Hale at 831-336-2444 or check the NorCal UFO website for details. http://www.norcalufo.org/ not much info on the site about it right now, but I'm sure if you contact Dennis and Peggy Hale, they can give you all of the info that you need. HTH :classic: Carl

MSA sells them, probably Courtesy Nissan also. As posted earlier by someone, not only can the lack of shims cause this, but the pad material can have an effect on this as well. Some materials seem to be more prone to it than others. I'd try shims before replacing pads though.

Hi Burt: Sorry it took a while to get back to you about the "Brand new rear rubber bumper strips for 240 with new nuts to attach ." Amazing how long it takes to wade througha day's email and post a few replys! How much are you looking for on these strips? Let me know when you can. No rush. Thanks. Carl

Now that you mention it, i do have text regarding a tool made by someone that is supposed to thread onto the old spindle and "pull" it out. the guy making it is named Dan Bethea and his email addy is zthang43@hotmail.com If your spindle is sheared one one side and mushrooomed on the other, I don't think it would work, but you may want to contact him if you might need the tool for pulling another different pin. Here's the info that I have: Hey guys it's me, Dan Bethea, selling the tool here. It's $36, includes shipping. I don't have a way to post pictures on the web currently, but drop me an email and i will send you pics and more details. zthang43@hotmail.com HTH, Carl

It couldn't hurt, but I didn't discover Kroil until after I did my spindle pins. The only thing that got mine out was a torch, a 30 ton press and the $50 I spent at the machine shop to have them use those tools to do it for me. I spent 3 days soaking them in WD40, and PB Blaster, and they still would not come out with my 10 lb sledge hammer and a brass drift held by a friend who trusted my aim with the sledge! GOOD LUCK how ever you try to get them out. Oh, grease the snot out of the new ones before you install them!

Congrats Derk! POR makes a product called POR PATCH that comes in a tube. It's basically thicker POR material and I bought two tubes of that for the seams. It worked just as well as the rest of their products from what I can tell. Remember, anything you put between the POR and the metal will prevent the rust proofing that POR provides. It must be in full and complete contact with the metal (properly prep'd of course) to provide the benefits that they claim. Where POR got on area's that still had paint on them, it was easy to peel up the POR15. Where I painted it on bare metal, I haven't been able to dislodge it. (haven't tried a knife or anything like that though!) Since I did my Driver side floorpan only, and it came up easliy with heat and a scraper, I'm hoping that I don't have the more difficult time it seems that you had, when I go for the Passenger side this spring. I'd POR any area I had the money, time, energy, and opportunity to strip to bare metal, prep, and treat. IF I was going to keep the car for a long time. JMO Carl

Hi Alan: I understand a bit about you feeling people don't appreciate the spirit of some of your "jabs". Sometimes after posting, I start to feel that my twisted sense of humor doesn't come across well when others read my posts. :disappoin I hope you don't feel that I was adding rope to your neck. If so, I apologise. Most of my knowlege of Z's has come from my USA variant experiences, reading Brian Long's Fairlady to 280Z book, and reading a large part of the ZHome site. But that doesn't mean I wouldn't like to learn about the other variants of this car that I really enjoy driving and working on. If Mr. Beck isn't interested in adding RHD "Home Market" Z information to his site, maybe Moderator Mike could set aside an area for this information to be made available. I know he mentioned something in another thread about not wanting to step on Carl B's turf regarding a register of Z cars, but if the information isn't wanted at ZHome, making (or allowing) a place for it here could hardly be considered infringing on ZHome's turf IMHO. What do the rest of the members think? Isn't this something that would benefit the Z community as a whole? Regards, Carl S Knowledge is Power!

Hi Burt: Hope you understood that I'm pulling on your leg a bit with my comment. That comment is my standard answer when someone asks why something isn't the "the way it used to be" or is "different from what I got last time I was here" You'd have to have the dash out of the car ( or be upside down underneath it) IMO to observe the reasons that warm air doesn't get to the end vents on the early Z's. Simply, they are'nt plumbed to the heater side of the ventilation system, only to the vent side.

I wonder, has anyone approached Mr. Beck with a request to include, or an offer of information regarding the RHD "Home market" Z's; that could be included on his website? He's not an ogre or anything like that. Maybe he would be glad to add more knowledge about Z's designed for other parts of the world. Another of my $.02

Things were done differently 30 years ago. That was then, this is now. Welcome to today!

Good thing you're from san francisco, shouldn't happen too often in your area. :pirate:

I checked Zhome.com ; couldn't find a mention of an E30 head there. Was it on a US 240Z or maybe a imported 2.0L Fairlady Z? Now I'm curious. I thought the 2.4L US Z's only came with E31 or two variations of E88 heads. Let us know if you find out anything more on this mystery! Carl

I like the Aerosol for my uses. I don't see the "Introductory Offer" on their site, but I have flyers from them for 2 - 13 oz cans for $11 SHIPPED. You may want to call and inquire about that, or I can send you one of the flyers that I've received from them. If you want the flyer, send me an email with your address and I'll be glad to send it to you. :classic: