Bambikiller240

Are you SURE these are for 240Z? I believe there are differences in the parts for 240-260-280 bumpers. Do you have P/N of these items? Are these strips for the corners of the bumper or the uprights attached to the bumper? Carl

Guess if you really wanted one of the first 500 Z's AND you have enough time and $$$ to pour into it,it might be worth bidding on. Definitely a MAJOR project. Not for the faint hearted, or one without deep pockets, and a lot of patience.

or if she's a "bottle" blond.

Most if not all penetrants will be flammable. I'd still use heat. WD40 isn't the greatest product, just the most widely known. I prefer many others such as Tri-Flow, PB Blaster, or IMHO the best one of all "Sili-Kroil " check out http://www.kanolabs.com/ for more information on it.

Add to the above reply the understanding that the technology used in the cars is 30 years old and you'll realize that that more maintainance is required than on current production cars. Auto design and manufacturing have advanced a lot in 30 years! Also, many of these cars have gone through several owners by now and not every owner knew what they were doing, or bothered to maintain the car correctly. Some owners are fixing problems that have existed for years,or are caused by years of neglect. edit: after re reading, I guess I'm just restating what 2ManyZs said. Nevermind!

I always use a pipe wrench, 3lb hammer, and my favorite penetrant (Kroil). Most new struts I've bought come with a new Gland Nut. If your Large Crescent or Pipe wrench doesn't do the job, add a length of pipe to the wrench to gain more leverage. Make sure whatever wrench you use is positioned correctly and tightly and you shouldn't have to worry about trashing the nut so badly that it can't be re-used. More Penetrant = Less Work! Heat is Good too.

Guess it's all in the perspective one looks from. Out here "complete" cars in poor mechanical shape with a semi rust-free body can be found for not much more than $500, if you look for a while. So starting with this one would be hard for me to swallow. When you mention "I have my shell TG." What is TG? Carl

I S'pose if ya needed a shell to build an ITS (or other class) racer, it might be worth $300, but geez, you'd have to do EVERYTHING in the world to resurrect it from :dead:. From the description, the wiring is trashed, interior gone, body looks coverd in "minor" dings & dents, missing a taillight, rear bumper center section. Not to mention the things the seller doesn't mention!! God knows what condition the powertrain is in, but if the "shell" is any indication, I would not expect much there either. MIGHT make the salvage of a Road Salt victim possible, but boy, what a job. $$$$ Guess my West Coast (salt free) bias is showing badly by now. Sorry. JMO

Looks like a crappy parts car at best to me. I'd only give $300 for it if I lived in Vegas, didn't have to pay anyone to drag it home, already owned the Sawzall to cut it up, and had buyers waiting for the body panels. It is 99% :dead: my $.02

Probably a "double" blonde! ( @ both ends):stupid:

Calif DMV is probably closed for Martin Luther King Day on Monday.

Bonnie: Look carefully at the dogs teeth. They have been altered, possibly in Photoshop or another program. I wasn't referring to the breed, just how the picture had been altered in the teeth area. Makes the dog look kinda inbred or goofy to me. Hopefully beandip understood what I was driving at. (?)

Next time call AAA (or a locksmith) for a lock out call, they can use their tool that slides into the door to unlock the door. Once you're into the car you can remove the locks and they can be re-keyed. Beats having find locks that are expensive if available at all. PS some guy on eBay sells some door/hatch locks occasionally. I don't think they are original 240Z locks, but he claims they will work. He asks over $100 for the three lock set. He may be a member of our club.

If the Mosler ever wins it's class at Le Mans (or any other major endurance race of 6 hours or longer) even with a world class "shoe" behind the wheel...........I'll eat your hat! Just email me when the need arises and I'll send you my address. :stupid:

Hey beandip: That avatar looks like Jed Clampett's dog. I think I saw that picture in a group that was emailed to me a 'Hillbilly Photo Album".

Yeah, but you (or anyone else) won't win Le Mans with a Mosler. The right driver in the Audi could. Anyone here got a spare Mil or Two (need a racing budget to go with it) to fulfill a dream?

When I bought my current 240Z from the oringinal owner, it had a Spook (with holes) mounted. That %#$@^&*@# Bambi took it out with the bumper, fender, and hood. :disappoin

That looks like the "Spook" that was designed (I believe) by the folks at BRE (Brock Racing Enterprises) for their racing Z's in the early 70's, and was later mass produced and sold to the public. Some were added to new cars by US dealers. I don't know if it was authorized by the factory, but I don't believe it was ever produced by the factory.

Hi David: You aren't the only one who has errors after proof reading. I was routinely correcting my posts until I started composing in word, running a spell check, then cutting and pasting into the post. Too bad there isn't a spell checker available on site when posting. I downloaded the Teaser for Get Away in Stockholm #3 and (maybe it's just me, but) it was boring. Far less exciting than I expected. I hope the full length video's are better.

Of course even a cheap air chisel is more expensive than the heat gun he already has. Kinda like using a machine gun to kill flys in my opinion.

Hi Derk: If you're having difficultly removing the tarmat, heat it more. As others reminded us earlier, you don't want to completely melt it to a liquid state, but the warmer you get it, the easier it will scrape up. I think you'd have to really try hard to MELT the tarmat. Mine never came close to melting, though it did get very hot. When I did mine, the air temp was in the mid 70's, AIR you mentioned your garage is in the 50's. You may need to apply more heat or to heat from below (the metal of the floorpan) as well as the tarmat itself from above to facilitate complete SOFTENING (not melting) of the material. I can't emphasize enough how EASY it came up for me using this method. Literally under an hour for one floorpan. Regarding the rear areas of the car. Anywhere rust is hiding, it is worth it to fix before it ruins the car. The only way to know the condition of your car is to look. Pull up the carpet and examine. Keep fingers crossed while doing so and hopefully you won't find much of a problem there!

That's the one that mounts to the transmission itself. There is another one that mounts to the transmission tunnel of the body (also made of rubber) and then there is the one made from Naugha animals that mounts to the plastic console. They are called "Shifter bushings". They are a 3 piece set. The two washer style pieces isolate the shifter from the transmisssion housing and the pin that holds the shifter in place. The 3rd piece is a cap that snaps onto the "ball" end of the shifter where it fits down into the transmission.

You might try: http://www.zparts.com/ Eric Neyerlin at ZPARTS richmond, CA http://www.webspawner.com/users/dannysdatsuns/index.html Danny's Datsuns in Roseburg, OR http://home.pacbell.net/royce111/ Royce Miller (may have them) http://www.ninfiniti.com/home.html Nissan Only Wreckers-Sacto,CA these guys are probably your best chances to find this kinda stuff without buying a parts car.

Actuallyit's www.getawayinstockholm.com the missing A makes a difference!:stupid: