Bambikiller240

Are you sure that a previous owner didn't swap Diffs? I would think that Nissan would have done the job correctly if chages needed to be made on the assembly line.

I disagree that Nissan parts in this application are not critical. Suspension and Steering parts are kinda important to your safety. I bought less expensive tie-rod ends (though not from VB) and they are definitely inferior from my standpoint. First, they are not as "beefy" in terms of construction, and secondly they do not have provision for a Zerk fitting to regrease them. The manufacturer deems them to be "sealed" and "lifetime lubricated". Had I the chance to make the purchase again, I would go with OEM Nissan units for Tie-Rods AND Ball-Joints. I'd be more than surprised if VB is selling Moog or Spicer. Their pricing is way too low for those brands. IMO is't better to KNOW what you will receive before you layout any money that you cannot get back if you aren't satisfied with the parts. JMO

the "computer brain" should only be necessary if you are going to use the EFI from the ZX. In which case you would need the entire Engine management system including all sensors, wiring, etc. If you are just going to used the ZX distributor, the "computer brain" is not needed.

In the fullness of time you'll likely find all varieties of Z Choke knob on eBay.

No, I don't have pics. With the moustache bar off the studs, I just put two nuts on a stud and used them to unscrew each stud from the back cover. Then I took the studs to the Hardware store and got bolts of the proper diameter, thread size, and length. (NOT the same length as the studs, but proper length to go through the moustache bar and into the cover without bottoming out). Bolted the mustache bar to the Diff and installed it all as one unit. IIRC, I used a lock washer also. Now, if needed, I can remove the bolts and drop the Diff straight down, or support the Diff and drop the moustache bar a little bit easier than was previously possible. Of course I'd loose points in a ZCCA competition for STOCK class.

Well, at least I didn't spill the beans on using Carbon Fibre Cardb............., Oops, Nevermind.

...............eBay

Cardboard and Duct Tape?

2nd 2 Pics are Assembly NOTE: Orientation of parts is very important to proper functioning. Orientation shown is for when the Motor is in the proper "PARK" position.

Hi Joseph: The only thing I can think of is that possibly the connector that connects to the output shaft of the motor and then attaches to the Operating rods might be damaged in some way. This connector is made up of about 9 parts including the Main Operating Rod. On one of the mechanisms that I got from Parts cars, the spring in this assembly had the "locating tang" worn off so that the spring could not be locked into a fixed position. I'm thinking that it's possible that this would cause something similar to what you describe. Unfortuately, the only way to examine this part of the Operating Mechanism is to remove the entire system from the car and disassemble the connector. I'm attaching some picture that I took while disassembling and assembling my connectors. NOTE: Please keep in mind tha these pictures depict an HLS30 (Left Hand Drive S30) Wiper System. First 2 Pics are Disassembly

Actually I was referring to removing the Moustache bar from the studs (after the nuts have been loosened/removed) while the diff remains mounted to the car by the front mount, and supported by a floor jack. Some of us have removed the studs from the Diff back cover, and now use bolts (through the moustache bar) into the cover to make it easier to drop the moustache bar in order to access and remove the Diff cover..

The "mounts" (Trans and Diff) that I got from MSA were Nissan OEM, I wonder if VB supplies the same, or ships aftermarket junk?

Motorsport Auto will have what you need. http://www.zcarparts.com/ R180 is the Diff, not the Trans. Sometimes (like in the FSM) the Trans mount is called a Rear Engine Mount, most other places will call it a Transmission Mount.

Front Diff mount is the most common cause.

Are you referring to difficulty getting the moustache bar disconnected from the studs on the Diff cover?

When I had my Outer Spindle Pins removed from the Lower A-Arms of my 240Z, the machine shop needed to use their 30-ton press (and a torch) to remove them. IMO, a 20-ton press would be sufficient for almost all needs, but a 12-ton would probably not be sufficient. Better to have too much capability than not enough, especially if the purpose of buying a press is to save money and time working on your various projects. If you buy the right tool the first time, it should last a lifetime and cover all of your needs. JMO

There is no paint under the tar mat. The paint was applied after the mat was laid down.

It could be a combination of the wrong M/C, and/or the rod between the booster and the M/C being the wrong length for the M/C currently on the car. What year model is your car?

Is it still Winter up there?

It's possible, but should be obvious if it is seated wrong. Since you have a 280Z (EFI?) I'd look for moisture in other connectors. You may not be able to "see" it, but it could still be there. Wipe connectors well and spray some WD40 on them to displace any moisture that you can't see.

I haven't experienced a driveshaft ujoint failure, but the P.O. of my car did. The evidence of a failure of the front ujoint on the driveshaft is all over the tunnel of the chassis where the d/s beat the $hit out of the sheet metal before he could get the car stopped. Since that area is right next to the driver, it must have been quite an experience.

Spring disconnected from the brake pedal arm?

you can also spray some WD40 inside the cap and then wipe it off. It will displace the water.

Hey Rick, you forgot to mention POLITICIANS as another source animal. You wouldn't even need to alter their diet (from their normal quantity of tax dollars), as they already generate large volumes of flatulance.