Bambikiller240

I've always just coated it with a bit of grease and tapped it into place in the end of the crankshaft.

I understand that we are conversing with people of different countries. However, I believe that we were refuting the claim that "Volvo INVENTED Hazzard lights in 1972 ". Now they may have introduced them in some country or other in 1972, but they certainly didn't INVENT them in 1972.

I have never seen that concept before, but THAT IS WHAT A Z IS SUPPOSED TO LOOK LIKE!!!!!!!! Sure wish someone in Nissan had the smarts to build this car. Assuming it didn't end up overweight like the 350Z, I'd hock my eye teeth to buy one.

I'd have to agree with Michael on this one....looks like an Explorer that has been "pancaked" at the salvage yard. Next stop for this one should be the smelter.:sick: :sick: Note to FORD: Toss this idea, and start over with a clean sheet of paper!

I'm not so sure about Volvo's claim to have "invented" Hazard lights in 1972. The 1971 240Z that I previously owned (US Spec) had the toggle type of Hazard light switch (rather than the push/pull switch found on 1973 240Z's). Of course Datsun may have been so forward thinking back then that they actually stole it from Volvo before Volvo invented it! :stupid:

ZwolleY: Ben said that he "replaced" the clock with a boost guage. A Boost guage shows the amount of "boost" (added air pressure) a Turbocharger is pumping into an engine to make horsepower. :classic: If the clock works outside of the car, next step is to check the wiring in the car to make sure that A. there is power to the clock. and B. that the ground wire that plugs into the clock actually is connected to a good ground. Once those two things have been confirmed, the clock SHOULD work in the car. Although, from what Ben experienced I guess that's not always the case. Good Luck and let us know what you find. Carl

(major snip by Carl) How sure are you that the clock was functional when you bought / got it? Never assume! Have you tried to test the clock with an alternate power source? I'd start there.

Merry Christmas! Pardon my ignorance, but can you clarify "Orthadox" for me? Must be pretty cool to have a BBQ for Christmas! WOW, very nice. Are those SU's chromed? Also, the "tube" from the bottom of the float bowls to the red cap at the fuel nozzle appears to be metal. Is it? If so, how does that allow for the nozzles to move downward when the choke lever is operated? In the US that tube is a ugly black silicone rubber hose. I like the look of your set-up much better!

Duplicate Thread!:classic: See: http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5025&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

I MAY have seen that too. It sort of sounds familiar, but I have no experience with it. Carl

Naw, just count your blessings!. On my first 240Z (a 73 back in the mid to late 70's) I didn't use anything but the shims either and never had a problem, though I knew people who did have Squeal problems. I wouldn't be surprised if the quality of manufacture and the pad friction material has a lot to do with it.

Keith: I think that it is undercoating that we see in that picture. I do not recall the car having that when I saw it at the 2001 MSA Z Car Nationals (though I could be wrong). My personal preference is for the underside to be black, I think it looks much nicer that way. I'm doing the POR bit on my car's underside (inside as well) and will Topcoat with their ChassisCoat Black product. Carl

That IS a good price for a "complete" B/M Cyl. I've done business with Andy also and he is a straight up guy. He won't screw you.

I've seen this car in person. (at the MSA show in 2001) It is VERY nice. The owner, Arvin is also a nice guy. Wish I had the $$

derk: here's a few links for your consideration. http://www.courtesy-nissan.com/ Richardson, Texas Great Dealership, Good Discount to Members of Z Car Clubs. http://www.zcarparts.com/ MotorSport Auto in Los Angeles, CA Great Service, Prices can be High on some items. http://www.victoriabritish.com/ Somewhere in Kansas Not the best service, but good prices. There are other places, but these three are the most widely known.

Please take and post a pic or two of the "junk /part out quality" ones (1970 to early-1974). I MAY be interested if I can find one that isn't too far gone. Thank you, Carl

Steve: What is the orange stuff called? The Silicone Brake grease that I buy is CLEAR and comes in a plastic (toothpaste-like) tube. Says right on it "Hi-Temp Silicone Brake Grease". What I purchase does not harden. It does not melt either. Just sits there. Removes easily with a rag and a bit of CRC Brakleen or paint thinner when needed. HTH Carl

Hi Daniel: I know what you mean. I'd always thought that you had to keep grease and oil away from brakes PERIOD, but I when crewed for my (now) ex-father-in-law on a Trans-Am series Corvette back in the mid 80's, they were applying it to the back of their Disc brake Pads routinely, and he clued me in on it's benefits. It is a very hi-Temp grease that does not melt and if applied THINLY, it will not migrate to places it should not be. I'd be afraid that the Duct tape would catch fire or melt from the heat and booger up the rotor or pads since it's not designed to handle heat.

My list is going to be short (just like my finances! ): Service the Windsheild Wiper Pivots Refurbish the seats POR15 the Passenger Floorpan Save some $$ toward a full repaint That's All Folks! Carl

:stupid: Geez, I thought this WAS the same thread.:stupid: Sorry!

Hi derk: The pot life (working time) of the POR is very short, so I chose to purchase their "6-pak" of 6 - 4oz cans of POR15. I applied two coats to the inside and two to the underside of ONE floorpan. I still have 1 - 4oz can left. I used 1 - 12oz can of the Chassis Coat Black and it was plenty to do the inside and the underside. I probably applied both a little thicker than they suggest, but I wanted to make sure I had everything covered well. I'll let others with more experience chime in here about the temperature requirements, but I don't think 55 is warm enough to do this. Dry time at 55 will be VERY long! You may also want to consult the distributor that you purchased from. My distributor in CA was very willing to answer questions and was very knowedgable. They want you to do it right, so you'll be happy with the result and recommend the process to others.

Silicone Brake grease and new anti-squeal shims kept mine from being noisey for the 20,000 miles I had the car before I completely rebuilt the brake system this past summer. I reused the shims and applied another coat of grease on the back of the new pads and ....................(sound of silence!) Duct tape sounds like something Kyle would try!

Hi Enrique: I just used the heat gun to begin to soften the mat, no melting ever occured, as I never let that much heat be applied. The mats probably never got warmer than (maybe) 120-130 degrees, tops. It just peeled up ever so easily. I was done in under an hour for one floorpan, including the minimal clean-up required. Also, since I already had a heat gun in my shop, the price was right! I'm sure dry ice works also, but it would have it's own drawbacks as well. Careful handling is required, cost, availability (at least where I live) and CO2 build up in a confined workspace would be concerns of mine. DIFFERENT STROKES FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS! As long as the stuff gets removed, it's on to the next step!

Hi Michael: I did a search on Eastwood's website and found "Quiet Pads" made by Dynamat. They are 12" by 12", and I think I'll use that for the floor and probably something with closed cell foam and maybe a reflective metal side for the trans tunnel, and inside the doors.

We are all glad to help "newbie's"! No use you having to learn by mistakes that have already been made by others. As for removing the mat, It really isn't (or wasn't for me) that difficult. I think I spent about 45 minutes to an hour on the drivers side. TOTAL! Get a hair dryer an hold it in one hand, probably on the low heat setting, then with a putty knife in the other hand you just start scraping it up in sections. Mine was amazingly easy and not messy at all. There were tiny bits of it left in some places, but that wiped off with acetone very quickly. Use good quality vinyl gloves as much as possible to protect your hands throughout the entire POR process! And don't breathe it any more than necessary. As for the POR process, remember to follow their directions to the letter. I'm not sure how cold the outside air temps are at this time of year where you live, but the POR Co. does not recommend application of the products in weather below 75 degrees F. The time consuming part was using the "Marine Clean", then thoroughly washing it off and drying the metal completely, before application of the "Metal Ready", rinsing that off and THOROUGHLY drying everything. THEN applying the POR15 which takes about 4 hours (@ 75+ degrees!) to dry to the "tack" stage where I applied their "Chassis Black" Topcoat. I had to do the treatment process over two days in September here in San Francisco Bay Area in order to have the ambient air temp where it needed to be for the whole application/drying time. Of course, you may have a heated garage, and the temperature difficulty that I had would not apply for you. To get the tarmat off and to remove the undercoat off of the underside of the car it took me 1 day. Two days to apply the complete POR treatment to the inside of the car, and another two days to apply it to the underside. I don't work real fast, but I do things as correctly as I can, since I HATE doing things like this over again, or not gaining the full benefit of the product. I beleive that once done, you will be happy with the results. Let us all know how you progress! Carl