Bambikiller240

Check it over very well for things such as RUST under the battery tray, inner fender wells, rocker panels, and rear wheel arches and the rear hatch area. $1000 is cheap for a Z car, but only if it doesn't need $5000 in repairs to make it road worthy. The VIN is on an ID tag on an inner fender. There are several people living in Europe who frequent this club that can tell you what you have, with the correct VIN # info.

Derk: The link below is for Alden Wrenches. This is what I use. It's an open-end wrench that grips tighter as you apply more force. Very easy to use and I've had ZERO problems with rounded flare nuts on my hydraulic lines. You can buy them at many parts stores or on-line. You can get a 3 piece set. I borrow the 3-piece set from a friend and IMO they are great. :classic: http://www.aldenwrench.net/index.htm

biker: I don't know anything about a 240C. Never heard of it actually, but if the engine is 2.4L and it is a mechanical fuel pump needed, I'd think that the number of carbs would not have much to do with the total amount of fuel pressure and volumn needed to run a given displacement engine. 2.6L is 2.6L no matter what. It's still gonna burn the same amount of fuel with minor variation for differing efficiency of carb(s). Why doesn't the dealer have any info on 240Z's? I thought that the were imported to Oz by Nissan and would be supported by the dealers? If you have to, I'm sure you can get a fuel pump for an L26 sent from Motorsport Auto in USA. Or someone in the Club could get one here in the US and ship it to you. Maybe I'm completely clueless about the challenges you folks in OZ face with Z's, but it's hard to imagine that there isn't a fuel pump for an L24/L26 in the whole country.:cross-eye

If the Urethane bushings that you bought specify that the casing be left in place I WOULD NOT assemble without it. You will have a "clunk" from that location if you do. If you have to, buy a new OEM bushing and press it into place, then burn out the rubber. Only assemble without the casing if the instructions with the Urethane kit specifies to remove the casing. If you do this wrong, you WILL regret it, I can assure you! Don't ask how I know.:stupid: The key thing to remember about 2ManyZs post is that his Urethane bushings "would not fit inside the sleeve". If yours do fit, YOU NEED the sleeve. Most bushing kits currently sold do require the sleeve (casing) to be left in place. They will be a tight fit (they need to be!), but they will fit. For future reference, if you do this job again on another car, just use a propane torch to heat the outer metal area of the mustache bar surrounding the old OEM bushing just until it begins to catch fire. Stop immediately and use a big hammer to "tap" the bushing. It will fall out leaving the casing in perfect condition. This is really an easy method and is safe when done OUTSIDE and with a bit of care. You should have a bucket of water nearby to put the old rubber into after it falls out.

I seem to remember that 240Z's were invited or "allowed" (whatever) at last years event. I believe there was a thread about that on either the IZCC mail list or maybe it was the 240.org mail list last summer

Rick: I'm not sure if they have any other car shows in Reno, but THE one that they are famous for having is in August of each year. Called HOT AUGUST NIGHTS. See http://www.hotaugustnights.net/ for information. Also, here's a link to the Reno.com website http://www.reno.com/apps/pbcs.dll/frontpage Enjoy your trip!

Very rarely they come up on auction at eBay. VERY PRICEY too!

Interesting that a "modern, visionary statement that celebrates our future" ends up looking so much like an uninteresting copy of the designs of other carmakers. i.e. Audi TT, etc To bad they didn't decide to break new ground and come up with something more original, like the Solstice, or at least something that set the car apart from the competition. While the 240Z took design elements from other cars, the "complete package" set the car far apart from the competition. IMHO THAT was a "visionary statement" that served Nissan very well. Guess they have to learn that lesson all over again.:disappoin

Amen to THAT Brother kmack!

Check the link below for information on build dates as supplied by owners registering their cars on the site. Should be able to get a good estimate of when your car made it off the line. www.ZHome.com

Use the link below and under Vehicles, click on 350Z. That will take you to a page where you can "design and locate" a 350Z. Follow the links and you'll get to a page that shows the color chips and when you point at each chip, the name of the color will appear. http://www.nissanusa.com/ I won't bother to ask why you'd want one of those colors. Different strokes for different folks, I guess :stupid: PS The blue is kinda nice, but there are SO many other colors to be found elsewhere.

Bri: I had a Mallory Dual-Point Dizzy on a 2.0L OHC Ford Pinto, and it had the "normal" method of adjusting the points. I haven't actually seen one on a Z-Car, but I'd certainly expect it to be the same. If you were talking about the Mallory "Uni-Lite" Distributor, there would not be any points at all in there. Hope that helps. Carl

Yeah, sort of like an Olympic Gold Medal athlete being the "proud" father of ..............Carrot-Top, or (fill in your own idea of a MAJOR genetic disappointment) Obviously "Darwinism" is a foreign concept at Nissan/Renault these days!:beard:

Cels240: At Disneyland, back in the "old days", before the price of admission included unlimited trips on all of the attractions, you were given a book of tickets as you entered the park. The tickets were labeled A, B, C, D, and E. You got quite a few of the A, B, C, tickets, but only a few of the D or E tickets. The Merry-Go-Round or other lesser ("tame") attractions required an A, B, C, or D ticket for a ride or entry. The very best, or WILD i.e FUN attractions, required an "E" ticket. To those of us who came of age in the 60's and 70's; an "E ticket ride" was synonymous with the best or wildest ride you could expect. My point was that if you'll notice, the damage appears completely external to the passenger cabin. No busted windshield either. In a modern car such as the 350Z, with seatbelts properly used, and todays front and side airbags, and crush zones built into the chassis to absorb the energy of a crash; the occupants probably only have "Skidmarks in their Shorts" to show for the incident. Carl (still un-P.C.)

NO! if they had their seatbelts on (as they should have) this should not have been anything more than an "E" ticket ride. Carl (the UN-P.C. one!)

Good thing it's only a Golden Toad, and not a CLASSIC 240Z. Now, THAT would make me sad. :devious:

If you don't need it, I'll take it off of your hands. Anything to help a fellow Z Phreak. :stupid: :stupid:

SO, how local are you? Sorry, I don't weld (never learned, & regret that) I've done some work with POR15 recently so I can advise in that area. Also do my own suspension, brakes, & most other mechanical work. I've been hoping that a group of locals could be loosely formed that would be willing to lend each other a hand when a project bogs down or an "extra pair of hands" is needed for a job that requires more than one pair. i.e. engine install, or clutch R&R, etc. If this sounds like something you (or others local to Pleasanton) might be interested in establishing, please post.

Sorry, tanny. Correcto, I didn't make the connection there. My apologies.:stupid: :stupid: :tapemouth

Just curious, if the Voltage Reg. was not even plugged in, WHY would you replace it? Was the car working normally before you put the new one in and plugged it back into the electrical system? When you plugged in the new Volt Reg, I assume you had to remove the "wires taped into the female end". If the car was working normally WITHOUT the Reg and WITH those "taped in" wires, when you now remove the connection to the Reg, you'll have to re-intall those wires in the female connector to get things back to normal. Just be sure that you get them back EXACTLY where they were originally, or you'll FRY something, if not EVERYTHING!!!!!

If you don't like the thread, don't view it! Afterall, it IS in the FUNNYBONE FORUM, it's easy to avoid. Self-Control Grass-Hopper, use Self-Control!! PS you are only the 2nd person to Whine about it in the 4+ months it has been going!

Yeah, by now; after an 80 mile cruise, the fuel lines ought to have no water in them. If there was crud (solids) in the fuel, I'd still blow them out. Including the return line to the tank. I still say to make them pay for your inconvenience in addition to the costs involved in solving the problems. You can't be the only customer that got screwed by this. If you can find others, band together and threaten to file suit for damages. There isn't any excuse for this situation in this age. The station should have filters and they must not be maintaining them for this to happen.

Did you drain all of the contaminated fuel from the fuel lines? All the lines from the tank to the Carbs? Next step is to send the "service" station owner to Singapore to be caned! Ought to get a couple hundred bucks for your trouble in addition to the costs incurred! :devious:

Others of us would enjoy the rebiuld process very much and would like to have the car done up in an EXACT, SPECIFIC manner, and would get satisfaction from knowing that the Resto was done in exactly the correct way. Or at least in the way that we wanted it to be done. Not saying one way is better than the other. That is a personal decision. Myself...............I'd like one of each, Please! :stupid: Ya right, Deam on , Bambikiller! It ain't in the budget:disappoin

Thanks for the scans Enrique. I'll add them to my file for use in the project. The numbers and letters are quite clear, so no enlargement is needed. Thanks for taking the time to scan and upload them for all of us to refer tol! Carl