Bambikiller240

Hi Enrique: No, it's not your explanation that makes it seem complicated, it's my mild case of dyslexia. We probably have a similar outlook in regards to working on our cars. I am very meticulous in working step, by step, checking everything twice, then checking again, just to be sure I didn't miss anything the first two times that i checked. This approach has "saved my bacon" more than once and as a result I find it difficult if not impossible to work any other way. PS : It's those "tiny details" that make the difference between wiper arm scratches on the hood and a completed job that one can be proud to have accomplished (IMHO, anyway)!!:stupid: I probably won't attempt the refurbishment until Spring, but when the time comes, I'll remember your kind offer of assistance. Thank you!

All of the original Minilite wheels that I've seen had 8 spokes. Back in the day (late 70's - early 80's) a Small Wheel Store chain in No. California made some wheels that were similar to the real deal Minilites and called the "Europa's" I had a set of these Europa's on my 1973 (long gone now):disappoin and the wheel pictured in the original post looks exactly like the wheels that I owned. Just an observation, other companies may have ripped off the Minilite design as well. The Minilites were quite difficlut to get here and the demand was there to be supplied by anyone with similar looking wheels.:classic:

Though the other explanations may be correct, I did NOT have this switch on the 1973 240Z that I used to own (mfg 3/73). I have no further suggestion to offer as to what it could be, sorry

My experience is solely with 240Z's but it sounds like the car originally came with the 240Z type of Alternator with an external voltage regulator, and that someone replace the Alt. with an internally regulated one. IF this was done they would have left the old regulator un-connected and made a jumper wire or two at the wiring harness. In some cases people have had to add a diode to the circuit to keep current from flowing "backwards" and preventing the vehicle from responding to the ignition switch being turned off. I'm sure others with more specific information will chime in here, but I don't believe this problem will be difficult or expensive to resolve. OK, Z Electrics Upgraders, this is your que to leap in and help kjo!

Hoping that I know the answer to be the latter and not the former, I ask.....Are we talking $!0kUSD or $10k AUS ???? It appears from your description and the photo's to be a very nice example of un-molested 240Z, however $10k USD would seem IMHO to be a bit much, on the other hand (if my currencey conversion guestimate is close, $10k AUS would be a bargain these days.

Looks like you found a nice car! Congrats!

The VISPeR Installer does appear. That's where I'm clicking on the INSTALL button. But nothing happens when I click that button. The files that appeared when I did the UNZIP are: BASS.DLL 90.4 kb FILE_ID 1018 bytes VSP INSTALL 291 kb legoland (GIF) 14.1 kb UNRAR.DLL 52.0 kb VSP 539 kb VISPER (doc) 10.6 kb INSTALL (setup info) 360 bytes BTW, they unzipped into their own folder WITHIN the original folder that I created to download the 4 files from the Net. What seemed weird to me was when downloading the zipped "install" file from Angelfire it was only 444kb in size where the other 3 files were over TWO MEGS each. Anyway, I'm not much of a gamer anyway. Probably not worth either of our time to mess with this anymore. But I do appreciate your time to try to help me with this Mike! Thank you Carl

Gav240z: No worries! I just get frustrated when computer things don't work out for me. I follow directions real well, but am not knowledgable in regards to computers. When things so't work as advertised without problems, I'm lost. ggod luck at the shop

And your point would be.............................????? Thanks Mike! Glad I'm not missing much. My system has winzip, but I'm no techo-geek. I'd just been selecting "un-zip all files" from the menu that is presented. If that doesn't get me what I want... I don't need it! Thanks again, Carl

Nope. Can't do that. When I right click on the link(s) the "Save Target" part of the menu is not active. It cannot be selected. I've also tried to cut and paste the link into a browser window. Whatever it is that I';m downloading (444 kb worth, AIR) doesn't do anything after being UNZIPPED. I quit. I've definitely got better things to waste my time on than THIS screwed up deal!

I've got 8mm Taylor Spiro-Pro ( I think that's the name they use) and they work great.

On my car, all I had to do to fix this problem was to remove the plastic "surround" clamshell and spray Electrical contact cleaner all around and through the mechanical parts of the turn signal assembly to remove all the "FUZZ and crap that has collected in there. I then LIGHTLY re-lubricated places where moving metal parts contacted each other. I also sprayed the contact cleaner inside the switch that you mentioned. That solved all of my problems, and they have not recurred for 3 years. It's cheap and easy! Give it a try.

Nope, I have nothing from Yahoo (except a free email address that I seldom use). I pay them nothing, they give me nothing.:classic: I've no idea why some people can see the image and others (apparently) cannot.

I don't understand the complaint either. I haven't had a problem seeing the image from Steve's very first post either. It has always been there, it's still there. What is the big deal?:dead:

Nice Photo, Zvoiture! Added to my "bank" of Wallpapers. Thanks for sharing. Carl

St.stephen's advice is solid! Welding in new metal to replace the missing (rusted) steel is the ONLY way to solve this problem. Once that has been done, do yourself a favor and treat ALL of the underside with POR15 to PREVENT rust from recurring. Unforunately, the repair (replacing the steel) and preventative treatment (POR15) is not a cheap job. Even with good welding skills, you'll be spending a lot of time, and a good bit of cash. So be aware of that before you purchase the car. This is why there are so few early Z's left in the world after 25-30 years. :disappoin

Don't think the MSA electric fan kit is $30. More like $130.00 + You must be talking about something else. Big radiator won't help much for my problem, I need to move air through the 3 row core that I have. Other than really hot days in stopped traffic conditions, everything runs fine as is. Carl BTW, where in the Bay Area are you?

The reserve price is almost never known (until the notation "reserve not met" disappears from the auction page). It is only known if the seller chooses to reveal it, and most do not. It is in their best interest NOT to reveal it. In this auction it was not revealed. At the end of the auction time, the notation "reserve not met" was still showing. Carl

The car did not sell. The final bid was over $100, but the reserve price was not met, thus NO SALE! From the description, about the only things useful on the car were those carbs,and a vented hood.:beard:

WGHungerford: Have you upgraded the electrical system to handle the load of the electric cooling fan? Or is the load small enough that a completely stock electrical system can handle it? On really hot days, my Z will overheat in stop & go traffic, so I'd like to add an electric cooling fan to give a little more air flow through the radiator core in traffic. But I don't want to chop up my wiring, or go to an internally regulated alternator. Thanks, Carl

:classic: Wow, Enrique, I appreciate your detailed explanation, which I am saving to disk for the implementaion of this project (probably in the early spring if the wipers last that long); which I believe they will. This sounds like a MAJORLY complicated task to get done correctly. Especially for a dyslexic. All that rotating linkage kinda scares me. :sick: :cross-eye I too am pretty anal about how I do things on my Z. I'd rather take a week and do it right, than to do it half-assed in a day and then have to do it over again 3 more times to get it right. The final question I have is........ Is there a way, or place(s) to mark things prior to disassembly of the linkage so that one can be CERTAIN to get it installed correctly the first time? I don't have manual at my disposal now, (my FSM & Haynes manuals are at the garage I use which is 10 miles away) and I've never even looked inside the cowl of a Z, so this is all new to me. Thanks very much for taking the time to share your expertise! I appreciate it very much! Carl

I'm going to need to remove my wiper assemblies for a good cleaning as they are finally, after 31 years; starting to run a bit slow. Upon re-installation, what would make the wipers run counter-clockwise?............and if they do run in the wrong direction, how would I correct the issue? :nervous: Sorry if it is a dumb question. :stupid: Carl

OK, I'm trying to install the game (for the 3rd time now :sick: ), when I "double-click" the VSP Install icon, the INFO button gives these directions: [1] Use our installer or *sigh* UnRAR manually [2] Run UNPACK.BAT to unpack sounds/data [3] Run SETUPREG.EXE and then SIMR.EXE to play! When I double-click on the INSTALL button, nothing happens. Also, I don't see the UNPACK.BAT or SETUPREG.EXE files. Can anyone tell me where I'm going wrong here?

My Fleeing from the cops story dates back to 1982. I had recently finished a 2 year project on the first 240Z that I owned. It was a late 1971 body shell with everything else (except the carbs!) out of a 1973 240Z refurbished and installed. Notable additions were the Bilstein Struts, Short springs, Camber Adjustable Aluminum/Delrin Suspension bushings, fat anti-roll bars F & R, 10mm short steering knuckles, 14 X 7 wheels w/ sticky Yokohama tires, and beautiful 1972 Orange (#918) w/ Clear topcoat paint job. I used to take the car out every day on my lunch break and blast up Mines Road in Livermore,CA; a notorious, twisty two lane country road that stretches some 30+ miles towards Milpitas. One afternoon I had taken my usual run of about 8 miles out of town, exploring the limits of the car and myself while enjoying the sensations of drifting through the many kinks in the road, I'd made my turn to head back to work and had gotten about 2 miles into the return trip when I was surprised (as I flew through a blind curve in the road) by a Livermore PD cruiser heading up to Lake Del Valle. I had zero time to react as we passed each other. All I could do was to glance in the rear-view mirror just in time to see him light up his "Christmas tree" and stand on the brakes. As I was going about 70-80 mph, and another turn was rapidly approaching I put my mind back to the road in front of me and figured I'd continue my daily run until I saw him again, all the while hoping that I wouldn't see him. Well, I never did see him again in the remaining 6+ mile trip to work where I pulled into the parking lot at work and parked at the back of the lot, quickly tossing the cloth cover onto the car. As I joined a few other employees walking out of the lot toward the shop, here comes Barney Fife slowly driving up the road. He had the Christmas tree turned off, but had his regular emergency flashers turned on as he crept along, looking into each parking lot that he passed. Presumably looking for me. It was a loooong walk to the shop while holding my breath all the way! Needless to say, I gave up the daily jaunts up Mines Road for about a month after that. As others have said, the elation and complete rush of beating the rap cannot be adequately described. That was the only time that I tried to run from the cops. Every other time that I've been caught breaking traffic laws in the past 20 years, I've just pulled over VERY quickly and kissed their arse, and B.S.'d with them as much as possible. The result has been more "courtesy citations" than I could possibly count, and 4 tickets, each of which I've cleared through attending traffic school.

The long boring one (first in the list labeled "movie"):stupid: