Bambikiller240

signed "Three-Fingers Lance"

I don't want to argue with Ron, or Alan, or anyone else, but I haven't seen one documented US sale report in the $35K to $50K range for a "normal HLS30-U" (that is to say, excluding race cars, works rally cars, 432's, etc, whatever) which is the type of vehicle this thread is (or at least WAS) discussing. If someone HAS seen the kind of cars we were talking about go for those figures, that's fine. I'd be interested in seeing some documentation. Some of us are firmly rooted in the reality of what we see, and experience as to values of any car (or other product). It isn't inverted snobbery to report what we see as the facts as we experience them, just because you or anyone else disagrees or see things differently. Some people "get off" on the idea of how much $$$ their car is worth, others "get off" on the fun and enjoyment of owning, working on, and driving their car. It's no surprise that the sale of a restoration vehicle seldom recovers the expense of the restoration unless the specific vehicle is special for some reason. It's quite common for many examples of many marques. Also, I can understand someone valuing a car at a higher figure than it can fetch (currently) due to the blood, sweat, and dollars they have invested in the restoration, but as someone stated earlier, "a car is only 'worth' what someone is willing to pay for it at any given time." A year or so ago there was someone on this site claiming that the value of his "Gold Medallion" winner should be compared to a sale reported on the Barratt-Jackson website that claimed a $75,000 sale price. For some weeks there was quite a bit of discussion over the reality of that valuation. A little exploration discovered the same VIN # car sold (2 years later by B-J) for less that $7K. Turns out there had been a typo in the original ($75K should have been listed as $7.5K) sale listing. So much for accuarcy of reporting even on the B-J site, but heck it was only a miissing decimal point.

Seth is a member of our 240z.org mail list.

If it's coming from the driveshaft ujoints, there are only two things to try AFAIK. 1. If there are grease fittings on the ujoints, try greasing them and see if that helps. 2, Replace the ujoints. **Not sure why the sound would change when cornering if it's coming from the driveshaft. I'd think that it would be fairly constant when you're on the gas.

Steve: See Post #6 in http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=119765#post119765

Dave's place is in Northern CA, about 30 miles from me. He does exceptional work.

I like warm weather

From what I've heard, using Hydrogen is senseless as it takes more energy to separate the Hydrogen and Oxygen than you get using the Hydrogen to power the vehicle. CAVEAT: I am not a chemist, I'm reporting what I've heard from people being interviewed on TV and Radio who claim to know what they are talking about. Here's some info on BioDiesel http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make.html http://www.northwales.org.uk/bio-power/whatis.htm http://msnbc.msn.com/id/6826994/ THIS ONE IS MY FAVORITE! http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLC,GGLC:1969-53,GGLC:en&q=Bio+Diesel

.............and BOAT ANCHORS too!!!

Are you suggesting that we all start eating beans? What kind of gas are you referrng to? Natural Gas? It's a Petroleum product as well and judging from my winter heating bill, it's price is prohibitive or soon will be.

I see that now. Had to go get my manual across town as it's been more than a few years since I worked on that part of my car. I think I was mistakenly remembering the Figure ST-31 that shows the measurement of Thrust Play in the Pinion. I don't think the Inner Tie-Rods need replacement as often as the Outer T/R's. I'd probably hold off on those, and if you felt that you still have issues after doing the other work, it's relatively simple to pull the rack and replace them. Although you would then need to re-align the front end again if Inner T/R's needed to be replaced after having done the other work.

I'll have to go look at my Spare wiper motor tomorrow, but if you turn the motor over, doesn't that side of YOUR motor have the cover with the marks radially around it? EDIT: Wait, I'm mixed up, the other side would have the stud for output of hte wiper motor. My description and pictures are of a Wiper Motor from a 11/71 mfg'd 240Z. If your car is a 77 260Z, perhaps the Wiper motor mechanism has been redesigned and doesn't need a manual adjustment for the "Park" posistion of the wipers. Otherwise, your motor looks very similar to mine.

If I remember from the Factory Service Manual, there is a spec. to check using a Dial Indicator to measure. You'd need to remove the Steering Rack from the car probably to check this. Movement when wiggling the Tire/Wheel vertically may be caused by worn or loose wheel bearings as well. FWIW, I don't like waiting until a critical part fails to replace it. I'd much rather KNOW as I'm driving down the road that these parts are in good condition and aren't 33 years old, and worn or in poor condition from improper care (servicing) durring that length of time. Bringing everything up to snuff on a 33 year old car gives you a nice a secure feeling as you drive down the twisty bits of backroads. IMO, if the Outer Tie-Rods are bad and the Ball Joints don't show OBVIOUS signs of having been replaced recently, I'd invest the $$ doing it all now. By that I mean the Struts, Ball Joints Outer Tie-Rods, Suspension Bushings and Steering Rack Bushings. Inner Tie-Rods I'd only replace if the run out on the Dial Indicator showed excess wear per the FSM specs. BUT, THAT"S JUST ME. I don't like doing things over again (especially if I'm doing it because I was trying to cut corners the first time). JMO

He may have meant me. I am Carl. I am not in my 70's (though I hope to make it some day in about 17 years) but I haven't seen any Z's reach the figures that you stated. Now perhaps you have better information than I (wouldn't be the first time that's happened) but IMO, from my experience, I haven't seen even one "normal Z (I'm excluding race cars, BRE Z's etc) approach $38K-$50K purchase price. The car I referred to in an earlier post is a 1971 240Z with approx 18K original miles on it (IIRC). Burt D. got some bids and almost sold it for $30K at one point, but the sale was not completed. Subsequent auctions have yeilded lower and lower final bids (the last one I saw was $22K) and the car still has not been sold AFAIK.

Burt Diamond has been trying to sell his low mileage 71 for quite some time on ebay and the bids don'tr even reach$22K anymore. I doubt I'll live long enough to see an original, low miles 240Z fetch anywhere near $38K to $50K

Pictures???

Maybe there is a reason? Not everyone likes any car for all the same reasons as another person. It's OK for you to think that a 73 240Z is the Cat's Meow, but not everyone has to agree with you. When they don't agree with you, it shouldn't lessen your enjoyment of the car you like, or be an afront to your sensibilites if you don't let it bother you. If the BOAT ANCHOR carbs have been removed and Round Tops added, is it really still a 73 240Z anymore? Or just a heavier 72 Z (door beams and bumpers) :stupid: Rock Stock compared to Rock Stock, Year for Year, IMO the statement was correct for many people,, but certainly not for all. But that's not to say that a stock 73 doesn't have some features that are an improvement over the features from prior years Z cars.

I've owned 1971, 1972, and 1973 240Z's and the only one that had actual steel "no sag" springs in the seats was the 73. All of the others had the strap support systems. I believe that they made the switch in '73 due to the requirement for seat belt warning sensors to be installed in the seats.

Could be a U-Joint in one of the Half-Shafts starting to go bad.

Cut Ghosen's paycheck in half and apply that money to the added cost to fix the 350ZX's shortcomings. Problem solved.

........Boob's thread?

I'd use these : http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7806 The others are BOAT ANCHORS

YES. Bleed nipples should be at the TOP on both sides. With a bleeder on the bottom, you'll never, ever get the air out of the system. Put on your rubber gloves and bury that caliper as described above.

In CA, (since the EPA finally banned MTBE) all the gas stations that I've bought from have stickers on the pumps indicating that they are using 10% ethanol. Here we don't have any choice of percentages, you buy what they sell and it seems to all be the same 10% blend.

more of a brand, than a tatoo. But painful none the less.