Bambikiller240

Most types of brake fluid will absorb moisture. I flush my brake and clutch systems every 2 years as a preventative maintainance procedure.

.........and 260Z bumpers are bigger than 70-72 240Z bumpers. There aren't many reasons to want to put 260Z bumpers on a 240Z. 260Z bumpers may not be as big and ugly as 280Z bumpers, but they ARE bigger and uglier that 240Z bumpers.

No thanks, I'll stick with anti-seize compound.

It was hard for me to get into position, but you just have to lay on your back (on the floorpan) facing upward under the dash with a flashlight in your hand. You're going to be looking at the point where the CMC yolk and the pedal arm are connected via the clevis pin. Use you hand to begin to depress the clutch pedal and observe the connection point as you do so. There should be no slop in the connection. If you can't see well, you can pull the cotter key so you can remove the clevis pin. What you want to see is a round (approx 8mm dia) hole in the pedal arm and a clevis pint hat is not distorted. What you may see is a slot in the pedal arm where the formerly round hole has been enlarged by the clevis pin (which will most likely be severely damaged itself). If that's what you see, that is your problem. FWIW, you can remove the clutch pedal by itself, but you shouldn't need to do that to examine the connection. If the pedal arm is slotted, you'll need to pull the pedal arm and have it repaired. I had a bushing with an 8mm hole in it welded into the pedal arm to restore proper function.

Since it has been "linked to", rather than saved and then posted here Eric may have a doubley valid point. This eats up his bandwidth AND uses an image that he has posted notice of copyright without permission. Not the classiest thing I've seen done here. :cross-eye

.....and the chutch pedal arm itself. In my experience the pin and pedal arm will wear the most and can become quite deformed.

I've used a product familiar to people who have served in the military. It's called Brasso. Liquid metal polish (mildly abrasive).

You can't do it. You have to contact a moderator and request that they do it for you.

Better to find out now than when you first need to STOMP on the brakes.

OK, who do you think it came from? EDIT: Nevermind, I found it. http://www.historybuff.com/library/refbarnum.html

Ruger Mini-14 (.223) w/ Scope

Last time I looked at zchicksz.com, it seemed that they were more into Z32, Z33 than S30. Wrong kind of girlz for me.

Will AND P.T. Barnum were right! 'nuff said.

I installed my MSA S/S clutch line without washers, without tape, & without sealant. Just used Anti-Seize crayon and it's been good for 2 years so far.

Another thing..............if they sold it at $19.5K, maybe they couldn't have afforded to make the damn thing so frink'in heavy. Subtract ~$8K of price and ~400 lbs of weight and they are only a face-lift (and an arse-lift) away from selling one to me.

What kind of car do you have? Year? Model? 240Z exhaust manifolds don't have liners.

Guess it depends on how long you want the car to last. Drive it when it comes in contact with snow, ice, and de-icer salts and it won't be too many years before you'll be either spending BIG BUCKS to repair the chassis or driving it like Fred Flintstone (if you're lucky).

The name. Gauge layout is similar. Anything else is accidental (or is that incidental?).

If you already reported it, that's all you can do, but I suspect that even with the "case closed" the record of the event will still remain in their files. Businesses don't usually "delete" anything from their files. It may still be used against you when it comes time to renew your policy. The insurance company IS NOT your friend. JMO (having dealt with several of them over the years),

You're right the bottom part (where the gasket goes) does not move. Silicone will work, but use only a thin coat. You don't want any bits of it to get squished out and circulate through the oil system where they might plug up an oil passage. The gaskets (Nissan OEM) were available last summer. They were very cheap, so I bought spares of that one and the oil pump to timing cover gasket to keep on hand for my next project. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, stocking up like this is a good idea IMO, as it can save time and shipping costs. Especially if you prefer OEM gaskets like I do.

I haven't read the directions on the package lately (printing is too small for old eyes) but my recollection and standard procedure is to clean & degrease any fastner that needs a threadlocker, or other coating (like oil) applied to it. IMO that's just good workmanship practice. Dirt & Crud = BAD, Clean = GOOD.

You're right, You CAN use a seat belt set from a 1973 240Z in a 1972 240Z. It will fit in the pocket with absolutely no problem. No mods required. I'm not sure if 1974 belts would fit the pocket.

Bummer about your car. I've been there before. Bet the white paint on his fender is gone long before the investigator gets a chance to look at the van. Money turns people into assholes.

On the 1971 turn signal switch that I have in my "spares" box, the metal arm (that contacts the ring on the steering wheel) has a RED w/ BLUE striped wire which runs to the connecter with 3 male spades on the turn-signal sw. assembly. Make sure the black (bullet connector) wire is solidly connected. I believe it may be a ground wire.