Bambikiller240

image can be no larger than 150 X 150 pixels. There is a file size limit as well, but I don't remember it.

Holy Cow, I started growing my mustache in 1970!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

well, maybe I exagerated, but I'll bet it would have taken out the radiator and bent the radiator support if the bumper wasn't there to absorb some of the impact energy.

Interesting. Up here you don't have to do that. You take quizs as you study for the required amount of time (logged into the traffic school website), then take a test. If you fail, you take it over again until you pass. I just logged in, watched TV etc instead of studying (they can't tell the difference), Printed the quizs and studied from there. Took the final test once and was done.

How about attaching photos instead of all the linked images? Some of us have dialup connections and this page already takes 4+ minutes to load with all of the linked images. Not to mention the pictures have stretched the width of the page to annoying extremes.

Seller's domestic shipping quote is OBSCENE!!!!

Actually, in a 70-72 240Z, even a 5-mph bump will exceed the protection that the front bumper can offer. My bumper ended up in the shape of a "W" (and pushed back into the new grille), cracked both sugar scoops, and the first 4" of my brand new hood was bent down at 45 degree angle. But it would have been far worse if the bumper wasn't there.

Do you have a link to information on this product? I just looked at my POR distributor's website and see no mention of such a product. (they may not have updated recently?) The only Primer I see mentioned is: TIE-COAT PRIMER Now, prime & paint right over cured POR-15 with our new Tie-Coat Primer. After thousands of requests from customers, our chemists developed this very special “interlocking” primer for painting over POR-15 with any type or color of paint you choose, without any need to rough up or de-gloss the POR-15. Tie-Coat Primer is a tough-yet-sandable, single-component, polyurethane primer, with special adhesion characteristics that make it perfect for most painted surfaces…especially POR-15. And, it is highly resistant to penetrating topcoats, like lacquers, enamels, & two-component finishes. It sands very smoothly, too. Note: It is not necessary to use Tie-Coat Primer prior to using any of POR-15’s Top Coats, it was designed to allow easy top coating with other paints on the market today.

Strange, I have been told that it needs a specific type of taper on the lugnuts.

With the engine in the car it is a bit of a hassle to get it out, but it's worth the effort IMO. If you don't want to try the hammer and chisel method, pack the bushing with grease, find a socket that just barely fits into the bushing. Install the socket backwards on an extension, then tap (hard) the socket into the grease filled bushing to compress the grease and force out the bushing. Look for grooves, or other deformation of the bushing, and looseness in the crankshaft. Frankly, I would just replace it without questioning whether it needed replacing or not. It only cost a few dollars, and having to pull the transmission again to do it later is a MAJOR P.I.T.A. The only time that I didn't replace a pilot bushing because it looked (and felt) OK, the damn thing failed before the pressure plate and clutch disc needed replacing again. It's your call, but I know what I would do.

I took it that he was referring to the support rails under the floorpans. As far as seat supports (not sure I'd call them "rails"), mine are black as yours, though it did look like they may have been 115 blue underneath.

Have you tried using the socket and grease method to force it out? If it's a bushing, (and not a needle/roller bearing) a Hammer and Small Chisel will do the job. Just be careful to not score the wall of the hole in the crankshaft with the chisel.

DO NOT prime the floors until after you have applied POR15. The POR must be in direct contact with the bare (properly treated with Marine Clean and Metal Ready) metal panel. The entire chassis (including the underside and support rails) was originally painted "body color" . Many people are using a product called "Brown Bread" as a replacement for the tar mat. Some others are using "Dynamat".

In many area's you can do your traffic school on the internet, and believe me, that is the way to go.

Thanks for the info, Speed. Is there any chance that you could post a close detail picture of a lugnut (not installed) so I can see what type of lugs that I need to get. The wheels I got from ggtyler didn't come with lugs. Thanks in advance. Carl

There is always a court date set. You have until that date to either pay the fine (usually they will mail you a statement of the fine amount and reiterate the court date) or show up for court to challenge the citation.

Mike: He's looking for less power, & better mileage, and has already been to HybridZ.org

PM member name "texasz" and you will have gotten ahold of them.

Michael: You'll have zero problems installing a 73 interior into a 72. I installed a 73 interior into a 1971 chassis without any problems. It all fit fine. No visual differences that I can recall (except the Flasher sw location and lighted Heater control panel that you mentioned) Carl

My point was that virtually NOBODY is interested in taking a sportscar and turning it into an economy car. Sportcar owners are usually looking for MORE power, not LESS. As I said, You'll be hard pressed to find someone that has gone that route. It just isn't an attractive idea to many people. If you want a 100 HP 240Z, disconnect 2 plug wires.

Wow, so much for his attempt to reassure bidders with the "THE CONTRACT FOR PURCHASE SHOWS IT WAS SOLD BY UNIVERSAL CITY NISSAN IN 1997 FOR $35,500. THE CALIFORNIA TITLE SHOWS NISSAN MOTOR CORPORATION AS PREVIOUS OWNER. BUYER INSPECTION WELCOME!" statement.

"If you're gonna play, you have to pay".

Plastic Centering rings? What are they? Which size wheels did you buy? I bought a set of 14" X 7" Rewinds. I haven't installed them yet, but didn't notice any Plastic Centering rings when I inspected the wheels.

Unless you can build the stroker motor (properly) by yourself, you'll need to bump your budget a good deal higher. You can do a Turbo swap/upgrade within in your budget, but you'll need time and skill (and most of your budget) to make it happen.

For a regular L24 you must raise the engine off the mounts in order to pull the pan. I'd be astonished if you didn't have to raise an L28ET in a 240Z to pull the pan.