Bambikiller240

Carl Beck would be one person to ask as he's had one in one of his Z's for many, many years. For the money, I'd probably go the ZX dist route, or a Pertronix conversion of a 240Z rebuilt distibutor if you wanted the OEM look.

http://www.tvtome.com/tvtome/servlet/PersonDetail/personid-43267

I have a Logo Sticker from Carl Beck's ZHome.com; I'll dig it out and take a picture of it tomorrow. It is basically a clear sheet (about 5" X 5") of vinyl material with the logo printed on it. It "clings" to the interior of windows and can be removed/moved easily.

www.HybridZ.org Click on the magic link!

If you can't find some good ones in the Pick N Pull yards of So Cal, I'd be surprised, but try someone else then. There is a thread in the Tech Articles forum listing Used Z Parts Sellers. Eric Neyerlin's Z Parts, Z Barn, Bad Dog, etc, etc.

No bumper sticker! More like something (a logo sticker) that will afix to the inside of a hatch glass or quarter window glass (and thus be visible from the outside, but be protected from rain and damage from rug-rats (and other rats!)

That ain't no lie!

Madonna isn't as young as she used to be. Those "appropriate places" for a wardrobe malfunction are currently closer to her knees.

How about a Mallory Unilite distributor? Pricey, but........................

Pick N Pull, Seriously doubt they are available from ANY other source. PS the Body Shop SUCKS. They ought to know better than to omit something like that.

That is a picture that Steve (Zvoiture) posted here a couple of years ago from one of his parts cars. My car has the same 'type" of mount (minus the rust). I have a California "rust free" car, don't you know. (That's why I had to POR15 my floorpans 2 summers ago) :stupid:

That is different than what I read on the IZCC mail list, but since I don't own one (280Z) and you do, you obviously would know better than me.

I have no numbers, but on my stock L24 engines, Original and rebuilt (.5mm overbore), there IS a slight protrusion of the flat top pistons above the deck of the block. I'm speakin about L24 engines here only. I know nothing about L26 or L28 in this regard. You might consider sending Phred a PM as he doesn't spend as much time here as many of us.

How about a pic of "Skidmark" while your at it Kelly? or don't you like that car anymore? "Mom, Kelly likes Slimer better than me!"

http://www.finishing.com/Library/pennisi/powder.html "To obtain the final solid, tough, abrasion resistant coating the powder coated items are placed in an oven and heated to temperatures that range from 160 to 210 degrees C (depending on the powder)." (that's 320 degrees F. to 410 degrees F) Do you really think your steering wheel can handle that temp?) Rottsa Ruk!!

Sounds like it's fixed to me.

One thing no one has yet said is that WHEN something goes wrong, if YOU can't diagnose and fix it yourself, finding a shop that knows what it is doing is not so easy. There are not that many mechanics out there who know much about 30 yr old 280Z's. Also, how fat is your wallet? Paying someone else to fix a 30 year old car every time it hiccups, or breaks down (if you don't know how to do it) would not be cheap and may happen more than you expect, or can afford. I'd suggest a newer reliable car for a daily driver, and a Z as a second car, or a hobby (a car you don't have to depend on). There is nothing like not being able to go somewhere, or do something because you have a car problem, or spent all your money fixing one. At 16 you have plenty of time to find a Z.

I think that the figures on the data plates for the 280Z were NET HP, on the 240Z they were GROSS HP. EDIT: I'm not entering this discussion, or taking sides. Just posted to make sure people realized that the type of HP reported on the data plates changed between the 240Z and 280Z.

Yeah, but powder coating also involves baking the item to high temperature. I WOULD NOT even consider this for a OEM steering wheel. Of course any Powder Coater worth his salt would warn a customer about the damage that will occur. Dan: I would not put a steering wheel in a home oven at 300 degrees either. But hey, that's just me, I'm not in a hurry to ruin my steering wheel. Other than warning you away from any heat processes, I'm sorry to say that I don't have any suggestions to resolve the issue.

Not sure what you mean about "brackets has broken in many cases" as I've never seen even one bracket break in over 25 years of messing with L24 engines. I have seen alot of engines with the brackets missing (presumably due to them being removed for some reason). I have seen the exhaust manifold stud that mounts the bracket on the left rear of the head break.

Fancy footwork but IMO it doesn't address what you meant with the "You just got bullshitted! Took it hook line and sinker!" statement.

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My 11/71 (1972) does not have that style of mount. You (is seems to me) are describing the later style of trans mount that DOES have PU bushing kits available. I don't think the middle mount is fused to the bracket on this style. Nissan and MSA sell a part for this "middle mount". AFAIK, (I'm going on memory, since I haven't owned a 73 for 20 years) the middle mount is attached to the "mount" just like it is to the early mount piece, with a stud and nut. I've attached a pic of the early mount (I've seen this on my 1971 (mfg 3/71) and 1972 (mfg 11/71) Z cars. The drawing is from the Vic Brit catalog and I've only seen this on my 1973 (mfg 3/73). They list it for 70-78, but that is IMO wrong, as I said, I've never seen that type on any 240Z other than a 1973. EDIT: PU will transmit noise/vibration more than rubber, but if the drivetrain is in good condition, I don't think it would be a major issue. (I had more vibration transmitted into the cabin due to the shifter bushings being in poor condition, which was an issue)

Only if it's the EARLY (Hi-Compression) E88. (as you say, NOT on a 73 motor) If the engine is not in a car (so you can confirm by the serial number on the block and data plate what year engine it is) there is no way to determine which type of E88 head is on the block unless you remove the head and examine the combustion chamber configuration.

We have you as an example of what it's like.