Bambikiller240

Are we SURE these 15" rewinds are zero offset??? The 14" Rewinds that I got from the same seller (Gabriel, or ggtyler) are -9 offset.

Do we know what offset these 15" Rewinds are? or are the 225/50's so short (not tall) that it wouldn't matter?

Sorry, Having never tried either size of tire on any of my Z's I couldn't say for sure. Largest that I've used is 205/60 and I've stuck with 14" wheels. (I'm old school)

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12474&highlight=MSA+clearance EDIT: Since this thread was not created in a regular forum, the link I supplied will need to be cut and pasted into your browser. Delete the "url" tags. EDIT EDIT: I emailed the moderators and they have now moved this thread to an appropriate forum so the link works.

Pull ALL the fuses out, and check them with a Ohm-meter. "Looks good" does mean squat. (see post #12) Most of us have at one time or another been fooled by the "looks good" issue.

orange260z: Frankly, I would get narrower tires and avoid the issue, but that is just me. dnald: As for how to gain a 1/2", some people (not me) suggest rolling the fender lip upward which will gain you some room. I don't know if it will be enough. Other than that I have no idea. Sorry

Yes, Vicky. Unfortunately, someone at Nissan decided that the USA did not deserve a 5 speed transmission in our 240Z's, but they were available to other markets. As you know, we had to wait until the 260Z came out to be allowed the choice of a 5 speed trans.

I am aware of that. Guess I learned that from another thread sometime in the last year since my post. BTW, there is already a new, separate thread about this latest f....... car to hit eBay: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=121399#post121399

Owner/Seller is a member here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/member.php?u=4054 As nice of a car as it is.........IMO the BIN Price is awfully high for an unrestored car with 120,000 miles on the clock. (I see that you have been on the website today Steve, so I hope that you won't be offended that I expressed my opinion here)

It is not possible to remove and replace a flywheel with the engine AND tranny is still on the car. Transmission and clutch MUST come out. Impact gun for torquing? OMG! 100% not necessary or recommended. Use a Torque wrench for torquing! If the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing has been in there for 8 years, I'd look it over real good and if it's even the least bit questionable, I'd replace it all while the trans is out of the car. I'd also put in a new pilot bushing (in the end of the crakshaft). Why you ask? Because I don't want to have to drop the trans again if I can avoid it. Look for grooves in the clutch disc, the surface of the friction material getting worn down to the rivets on the disc, burnished spots, rough spots, etc. Good luck (and leave the impact gun alone!)

I'm not sure what you mean by "metal cup". Maybe the opening built into the QP? The rubber flap is between the QP metal and the flange (or lip) of the Filler neck (right?), and the locking ring (that the cap gets secured to) goes on top of all of it and the three screws clamp it all together. Yes? I don't think I understand the part above that I have put in blue. The flap being forced into the mounting ring if it's mounted above the filer neck ring? I found my rubber flap to be sandwiched between the underside of the filler neck flange and the underlying metal of the QP. The locking ring was in direct contact with the upper surface of the filler neck flange (lip). If all three of the screws aren't tightened properly that will (of course) cause problems. Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but it sounds like you are saying that the pressure exerted by half a tank of gas is greater than the pressure that can be exerted by a full tank of gas. When a hard or quick left turn is made, centrifugal force is applied and pushes the gasoline (and anything else that is not secured) to the right. Now I am no scientist, but my understanding is that the force applied to the cap will be more than equal to (greater) than the weight of the gasoline being moved to the right. More gas = more weight transferred. (?) I don't know if the gas caps are designed to keep gas from leaking out when a car is upside down, but I do know this. Of the 3 (street) cars that I've seen upside down after accidents (that didn't appeear to have damaged the filler or cap), 2 of them were definitely leaking fuel onto the ground from the gas cap, so it does happen. Static wieght of the fuel was the only force being applied to the cap (no outside forces like when a hard turn is applying centrifugal force) I have a brand new, still in the box (and sealed plastic bag) locking gas cap in my spares box. It (as yours) has a really thick rubber ring (gasket/seal/whatever) around the inner circumferance. It was hard to find and expensive to buy, so I haven't been able to force myself to open the packaging and use it. I firmly believe that over filling has a lot to do with the "leaking" issue. I would replace the damaged parts (Cap or Locking Ring) with undamaged ones before I'd go messing around with "adjusting" either one (like some people on the mailing list chose to do). It's my feeling that the parts were designed to work properly together when undamaged (unmodified) so that is the way I want them on my car. My car has a relatively new OEM gas cap (new when I bought the car) and IIRC it has a thin sheet of rubber built into the inside surface of the cap (which would contact the locking ring) (I'll take and post pictures tomorrow)

I wonder where he got THAT figure? If anyone stops by to inpect he car, they should wear tall boots. There seems to be an excess of B___ S____ around area. EDIT: Patrick, I will check out that other car for you tomorrow. (Sat)

I guess we do have more choices than some other countries, but...... Well, in the USA, NASCAR (i call it NAPCAR) sucks up a large amount of the sponsorship and fan dollars, leaving precious little for all of the other series to scrap over. I certainly agree that Memo didn't seem to get a fair shake in Ganassi's team.

doesn't matter. contact is contact. It should not be that close to any part of the radiator. I now think that your radiator support has been pushed back due to the "...it obviously had some front end problem at some time...which was sorta repaired and i didn't really notice until i had the radiator out..." statement. Either the radiator has been (or is) moving rearward, or the fan is moving forward. The distance between them should remain static. If the fan blades are so distorted that one or more of them stick out far enough to contact the radiator (which should be about an inch away from the fan in normal conditions) it's time to get a different fan. They can be had through MSA, VB, or possibly still through Nissan (though Nissan would obviously be more expensive).

I didn't say that I have this issue on my car, but it was a common thing to see (back in the day) a stain on thr RR quarter panel where gas had sloshed out of the tank and road dirt/dust had collected on the wet spot. It usually only happened when the car had taken a turn really quickly. It is possible that "overfilling" (topping off) had something to do with this. Also, I don't think the cap was designed to prevent any possibility of spillage. Ever see a car upside down? They often leak. Can you enlighten me about the Filler neck possibly being mounted wrong? Having taken my filler neck apart to replace the rubber "flap" I can't uderstand how it could be "mounted wrong". There are 3 screws to secure the metal ring, and that's basically it. (Metal ring, Rubber Flap, Filler Tube) No gasket, nothing. The screws go from the latching ring the through the rubbber flap, and rubber filler neck and then thread into the captive nuts (or whatever those are called) built into the QP. Kyle (the moderator of the 240Z.org list) had the problem a while back and started tweaking the "ears" on the filler cap to tighten the seal. Last I heard he hadn't solved the issue. (I kinda lost interest in the mail list)

Does this mean that you've bought it?

Does your car have front end damage? Like from some sort of accident? If you have a new water pump, and a new fan clutch I'm wondering if something has caused your radiator to be moved backward, closer to the fan. If everything is normal, there should be a good distance between the fan and the face of the radiator (like an inch or so), I'm guessing on the measurement since I've never bothered to actually measure it. The point is that it should not be so close that they could touch like that.

When you make a left turn the gas gets forced over to the right side of the car. When this happens it's common for gas to slosh out of the gas cap after a fill up. On many Z's it is much more pronounced than the symptoms that you describe. (Lot's of gas "can" slosh out)

I don't need a website to find out what gasoline is selling for...........it gets drilled into me (like REAMED) once a week, at least. :mad:

Of course CART dominated Indy for 20+ years. After 1982, who was there to compete against them? USAC rolled over and played dead as far as the National Championship was concerned. The teams either joined CART or went out of business. Frankly, I am no longer a staunch supporter of CART (OWRS) but it took me a long time to stop supporting them. They started losing my support when poor officiating (Kneifel's) caused the races to be hindered by so many caution laps that the races became boring (in person) and could no longer fit into the alotted TV time slots (2001-2002), and it became apparent that they were bleeding the company dry (2003). The last CART events that I attended were in 2002. I did "try" to view the 2003 series via TV, but frequently did not view the complete events (see above). I watched the Long Beach race in 2004 (on TV) and was so disappointed with the coverage that I never made an attempt to watch another race. In fact, I watched more than one IRL race last year, but I didn't enjoy them very much either. I watch (often having to get up at 4AM to do so) EVERY F1 Practice, Qual and Race, all season long. Thank GOD for the Aussie, Malasian, China, Japan, and Brazilian, and USA, and Canadian races, so I can sleep in! True, Minardi and Jordan are bottom feeders, but Jordan (Shnaider owned now) wasn't always there. Toyota is getting an education in what it takes to compete, and will (if they don't bail like Ford/Jaguar) raise their game in due time. No seconds? There goes the "team driver" strategy. Which 3 drivers would you cut loose from Andretti/Green? (financed largely by Honda through the back door) As for good Open Wheel races in the US, we do have some of them, but the best of them aren't in the IRL (or OWRS) at the moment. IMO they are in World of Outlaws, Midgets, Sprints, and Siver Crowns. (in no particular order) Good equipment? In the Injury Racing League? I don't know about that. Fortunately they did finally make them safer by limiting HP via reduced displacement and the chassis rules put in place last year.

Doing a quick search, I found these : http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=170&pricetype= http://www.radioshack.com/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F008%5F002%5F000&Page=1&find=Multimeter(keyword)&hp=search http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/digitalmultimeter.htm sblake01 knows quite a bit about Z Car EFI, so I am sure that he can chime in and help to advise you. PS, I've attached a Multimeter operating manual. It is for a specific brand and model of meter, but I've found it helpful to me for learning how to perform some testing using my meter (of a different brand)

I do not recall CART limiting entrants to any of their races. True a group of owners established CART, but they have always allowed other teams to compete in events. Those teams may not have shared in the power and profit from managing the series and the public sale of stock (which was only good for the franchise owners who wanted to keep thier money AND be able to leave the series) , but they were allowed to enter and compete. I cannot fathom what you are refering to when you talk about "the best sponsor deals" being assured to only certain CART teams. Teams have always competed freely for their own sponsorship, nothing is/was assured to anyone (except by Chris Pook in 2003). What was CART's "virtual lock on the first 25 spots in the Indy 500". Anyone could enter the show and show up with a car and qualify as best they could. That's far different from a written mandate that you cannot earn a starting place higher than 26th no matter how fast you qualify. Tony put that plan into effect because he KNEW that the CART teams (at that time) were more professional, skilled and knowledgable that the bush league teams he was pimping in the IRL. I guess it depends on what you call "top flight" races. IMO as an avid fan and very frequent spectator at many races, for many years (been following, and attending regularly since 1974), there are currently FAR less than 32 top flight open wheel races in the USA. Far less than 16, in fact. As for Tony currently allowing CART teams to fight it out for the 33 starting spots, yes, he allows them to arrive and qualify, but heaven help you if you try to win the event. (Just ask Paul Tracy about that one!) BTW, I am absolutely NOT a P.T. fan grousing because my driver didn't win.

Prices in my town have already gone up over $.20 per gallon in the last 2 weeks. Regular 87 octane is going for $2.15 & 9/10ths. Premium 91 octane going for $2.41 & 9/10ths.

Grrrrr. deals like this always happen when I am broke.

I don't know if you have checked into it, but you can get a volt meter for around $10 (or less) at many stores and it is very useful to have around the garage for a variety of purposes. I am not familiar with Z car EFI, but I would recommend spending money on a tool (Voltage meter) before spending money by "throwing parts" at the problem. The tool will serve you now and in the future (and you will probably learn something from using it). JMO,