Bambikiller240

The 2+2 Clutch is larger diameter than the regular 240Z clutch.

My garage is quite basic (except for the "special toys") No sandblast equipment.

It's a little silly to justify a falsehood on that basis. The actual mileage is shown to the best ability of the equipment. Schevets: Why the penchant for initiating a lie? One could also "just say" the GWB has a brain. But saying it doesn't make it reality. 'Nuff said.

Caswell's product sounds good if you have (as you do & I don't) the equipment to apply it. Jet Hot makes coatings that withstand up to 2450 F. http://www.jet-hot.com/pages/headercoatings.html For my L24 I bought a "ceramic" high temp paint that claimed 1300 F protection and it burned off in 1000 miles. Very unsatisfied with it.

Many people have discovered that wrapping headers (extracters) causes them to rust out quite rapidly (2-3 years). The wrap traps water quite well and allows it to do it's deed very efficiently. A better alternative is to have the headers coated by Jet Hot or another process. The headers will routinely see temps of over 1300 F. so make sure you select a coating that will withstand at least that temperature or higher. US Website: http://www.jet-hot.com/ Aussie Site: http://www.jet-hot.com.au/

Scuderia Ferrari unveiled its 2005 car, the F2005, today in Maranello. As it did in 2002 and 2003, the squad won’t debut the new challenger at the first round of the season, preferring to improve its reliability until it goes racing for the first time at the Spanish GP in May. The new car’s most notable aspect is a second auxiliary front wing, already dubbed a “chin wing.” The team had experimented with the concept during this preseason’s winter testing. The F2005's chassis is also lighter, despite having to meet more stringent crash tests, and the shape of the chassis has been thoroughly revised, with modifications to the opening of the sidepods and the area around the turning vanes, the sidepods accommodating a new cooling system. Technical director Ross Brawn defined Maranello’s confidence levels on its latest creation: “It is the best car we have ever produced,” he said of the Aldo Costa-penned machine. “The areas directly affected by the new regulations, like wings and diffuser, are obviously all new but even radiator, exhaust and gearbox layouts have been fundamentally revised to optimise the aerodynamics," continued Brawn. “In addition, there are several development items planned to be introduced during testing in the next month so when it first races it will look differently in some areas to the car you see here,” he revealed. A second unique feature is yet another extra wing, added to the engine cover near the roll hoop - reminiscent of the new McLaren’s “horns”. An all-new, smaller gearbox made of titanium and carbon-fiber meant a complete redesign of the car’s rear underbody was necessary. Engine-wise, the 055 unit is dubbed as all-new, but much of its internals are derived from the current 053 mill which will power Ferrari’s F2004Ms in the first four GPs of 2005. The F2005 will shoot for an unprecedented seventh consecutive Constructors' title in a row this season, with Michael Schumacher gunning for a sixth straight Drivers’ championship. Testing of the new challenger will kick off next week with Luca Badoer at the wheel, with drivers Michael Schumacher and Rubens Barrichello not trying it out until after the Malaysian GP. Engine-wise, the 055 unit is dubbed as all-new, but much of its internals are derived from the current 053 mill which will power Ferrari’s F2004Ms in the first four GPs of 2005. The F2005 will shoot for an unprecedented seventh consecutive Constructors' title in a row this season, with Michael Schumacher gunning for a sixth straight Drivers’ championship. Testing of the new challenger will kick off next week with Luca Badoer at the wheel, with drivers Michael Schumacher and Rubens Barrichello not trying it out until after the Malaysian GP. All you need to know about Ferrari's latest F1 car, the F2005... Chassis Carbon-fibre and honeycomb composite structure Ferrari longitudinal gearbox limited-slip differential Semiautomatic sequential electronically controlled gearbox Number of gears: 7 + reverse Ventilated carbon-fibre disc brakes Independent suspension, push-rod activated torsion springs front and rear Length: 4545 mm Width: 1796 mm Height: 959 mm Wheelbase: 3050 mm Front track: 1470 mm Rear track: 1405 mm Weight with water, lubricant and driver: 605 kg Wheels (front and rear): 13" Engine Type: 055 Number of cylinders: V 10 Cylinder block in cast aluminium Number of valves: 40 Pneumatic distribution Total displacement: 2997 cm3 Magneti Marelli digital electronic injection Magneti Marelli static electronic ignition

OEM 240Z seals are separate from the "U" shaped welting that clips over the seal and the metal lip on the car. The Precision seals are more like the OEM 280Z version where the welting and seal are all one unit. BTW, I agree on it not mattering igf the doors are closed or not when installing new seals. (Unless the install was sloppy and adhesive could get on the door and glue the new seal to the door, not a good thing, RIPPPPP)

Just to recap: The starter cranks the engine over with out running out of power, right? It just takes a while for the engine to finally get started running on it's own? It sounds more like a carb problem to me, Ben. Choke nozzles, or cables not adjusted good maybe. Amp gauge operation seems normal for an early Z car IMO JMO

Ed, don't think I'm picking on you over this, OK? I've discussed this several times with different people, but I've never understood this rational. What is the "thrill" in looking at five zeros on the speedo for a few seconds? Especially when those zeros (themselves) represent nothing except the expense of a new speedo, or a couple of hours cracking the case and rolling it back to a false mileage reading. I was proud that my car looked like it did (after all my work) even though it already had almost 80K miles on it. For me it would have been an exercise in fooling (or trying to) myself into believing that it was a "new" car when in fact it wasn't. (Mine was, in my eyes, better than new due to the heart, sweat, and effort that I put into it) Even though my eyes saw "zero's", everytime my brain processed what my eyes saw, I would know where the odometer should have been. The only people that would have been fooled would have been people looking casually at it, and I didn't build the car to fool or please them. As far as "....And every mile after that will be part of the car's new life, born again in a way" goes, that is true no matter what the speedo says. One could also say that leaving the speedo at 70K with the car looking like it just left the showroom (or better) is a testiment to the great the work that you've done to erase the effects of those miles and years. I'm not trying to talk you into one way or another, I just don't understand the concept of feeling a need to change it.

Mike, Did you use OEM seals, or the aftermarket ones with the welting built in?

BAH, Why bother, we've gotten along without a Chat for this long. PM and Email works just fine.

Yes, but it is a different method. For including pics in your posts, DON'T use the Quick reply box. Click either "QUOTE" (to include text from another post) or "REPLY". Enter your text, then scroll down the page to Click on "MANAGE ATTACHMENTS" (that's what you'll be doing, "attaching" pics) , click "BROWSE" to select your pic, the after you've done that, click "UPLOAD" to actually send the pic to the website. wait until the pictures upload is completed, then close the Manage Attach. window and Click on "SUBMIT REPLY" to complete the process. Simple Simon.

Rich: if he's a no show, please let me know. You can send either a Private Message or an email through the website. I'd be glad to come over right away. Thanks, Carl

Be advised that it is illegal to rollback an odometer for any reason. (witness Nissan's Fac...err...ummm Vintage Z's) If you've documented your resto like I think you have (with pictures and receipts), IMO you don't have any need to roll it back.

Have your machinist look at the flywheel, they'll tell you whether or not you need a different flywheel. If you need a flywheel you can either spend big bucks to get an expensive aftermarket lightened one, or find a used OEM one in a salvage yard. If you can't find one locally, look in the Tech Articles forum for a thread called something like "Used Z Car Parts Sellers". One or more of those businesses listed will be able to help you get one. I don't believe that new OEM flywheels are available, and they would be expensive anyway.

You'll want to ONLY REMOVE THE METAL THAT WAS TRANSFERRED to the crank. Nothing more. (and be careful about it!)

Sent these guys an email last night. Here's the response I got today: Dear Sir, We do not carry this particular diode. We do not have a technical department to help you with a replacement part. Sorry Thank you, Alma All Electronics Corp. (800) 826-5432 ext-308.

I resemble that remark! (I'm a Journeyman!) PS: Keep on taking your Meds. You aren't as young and resilient as you once were.

Sorry, thought you were refering to someone who was partisipating in the thread. (check your email, please)

$5 - $10,000 Need a lot more details and pictures of the "standard" problem areas for anyone to give you an educated guess. After that, the area of the country it is in will make a difference as well.

Huh? Who is Mike?

You remember that the threads are different on each side, right? Look the threads over carefully to see which direction to attack with a wrench. If you have separated the outer tie rod from the steering arms, re-attach them "loosely" to keep the outer T/R from turning as you loosen the jam (lock) nut. It's been a couple years since i did this so I don't rememeber the exact details, but I don't recall needing to do anything but the above to loosen the jamb nut. Sprayed a bit of lubricant at the threads of the Inner T/R where they go into the outer T/R just to make the unthreading a bit easier. If the steering rack is already out of the car, chuck the outer T/R in a vice to hold it, then go after the jamb nut. EDIT: Will, Stop snorting those diapers and Go to Sleep for chrissakes!

Don't know what to say about the 70 amp alt. except try MSA or VB; maybe they can help you. As for the diode, did you look for it at an Auto Parts store or a place like Radio Shack? I would think that someone who knows what they are doing ( an electronics store) would be able to cross-reference to an aceptable subsititute. I don't know much about electricity either so I'd be in the same situation as you. Good luck and be sure to post how you make out.

I have a 280Z fan shroud on my 1972 240Z. All it took was a bit of trimming on the shroud, and I made 2 brackets out of 18 gauge sheet metal to mount it. It makes a big difference in water temps when stopped in traffic on hot days.

:knockedou I couldn't remember if it was $4.99 or $5.99 a month Good point on the newer unit's. Even w/ 100 hours available, I have managed to nearly fill my recorder with programming that I want to keep. Now I need a DVD Recorder so I can dump programming to disc. I needed to replace my regular (free) DirecTV unit after 7 years of use (it was getting glitchy) and in Dec 2003 they offered a 30 hour TiVo unit for $100, but they were out of stock when I called. They offered a $25 discount if I would wait until Jan for (free) installation. When Jan (actually 12/31)came they delivered the 100 hour unit and upgraded my dish to a dual LNB! Cool!