Bambikiller240

Doesn't seem like a logical place to let oil overflow. I'd rather have it on the floor instead of inmy bellhousing where it could contaminate my clutch.

I roll mine around the garage with an engine on it frequently. Even rolled it down the driveway (carefully, as it can still tip, though it's MUCH less prone to do that) to the car I was going to install the engine into.

The Z Tie-Rod doesn't have external threads like the pic (they are internal). The Left and Right Tie-Rods are different. One has right hand threads and the other left hand threads. I don't remember if the lengths are different, but if they are it's not by much. Due to the threads, you cannot use R on L, or L on R. Inner Tie-Rods? I didn't replace mine, but that's the only other thing I can think of.

On the F1 websites they said that the SHB is internationally recognisable (like the World Trade C...oops, nevermind, the Golden Gate Bridge, Eifel Tower, etc.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4529553217 That is Nissan Only Wreckers. One of the larger specialty salvage yards in the Sacramento, CA area

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/speciality_tools-separator_tool_pickle_fork-d.html Can't find a pic of the Outer Tie-Rod. Basically, it is the part outboard from the jam-nut (loosen the jam-nut near the Steering rack boots and remove the tie-rod from the steering rack

Me too. (got 1/2 a freezer full, she'll cook me one) Briefs. :devious:

MSA lists P/N #45-4101 for $79 (catalog printed 3 years ago) V/B lists P/N69-100 for $19.95 (newest ctatalog 2005 Winter) Bet there is a difference in quality as well.

It's scary to me that it will be a month before you need yours again. Not exactly a great endorsement for marriage. March 20th is one of my favorite days of the year.

Hey now! I've got my large nuts right here with me. I don't leave home without them! (never know when I'll need them)

Are you building engines for sale? How many (real) Z's do you own?

What about the other one?

A better Engine stand! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=32916 This is the type that I own. Those damn 3 leggers should be outlawed. I'd need both hands to count the number of times I've seen them tip over and smash engines. One of my friends got pinned under a Toyota 22R 4 cylinder motor when he tried to "save" it.

It's not the best photo, but it's the one I have.

Dave: I understand all that but you could just use the PU on the stock links. That's what I have on the car now. (Just bought a set S/T bushings (only) at the local CSK store) In a previous Z I replaced the links when I went to a 1" bar and it was extremely difficult to get it all mounted due to the difference in length of the new links, so I ended up using the old links with the new (PU) bushings, I can't remember if the new links were longer or shorter than the OE units. (It was a Quickor Engineering 1" bar and links)

Hi JT: See http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13638&page=1&pp=15&highlight=Mack+Speedo+cable Post #1 and #20 Our member ChrisA provided that info.

I believe that it is soldered to the wall of the tank. I also believe that it is attached to the inner bottom of the tank as well. This is the sort of thing that "I" would leave to a professional. I'm not into blowing myself up by applying heat to a gas tank. I suspect that getting the sealer out of that tube is going to be difficult as it's meant to stick (and stick well) to the metal. Others will likely have different opinions

Isn't a hood kinda big for Greyhound?

Dave: :stupid: Duh, that makes sense (now that I think about it and read up on it a little bit) Is there any benefit or detriment to using one or the other? Just wondering why you say to use the new ones.

Let us know what you find out.

Maybe it's intended as part of the package, in order to keep the chassis from even starting to roll over? (like you said, a preload being applied?)

It would explain a lot of things! Hey, it's "National Pick on Bill" Day! j/k

Excellent point and quite true, Mike. I try to balance my Fed and Statre tax deductions so that I either get a small refund or owe a small amount.

The search button is your friend: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=62670 40 threads found using "Paint Removal". within the search results was this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7832&highlight=Paint+Removal

Mull: The interior plastic panels are available from Classic Datsun Motorsports http://www.classicdatsun.com/ (link to Main webpage) http://www.classicdatsun.com/new/panels.html (Direct link to Panels)