Bambikiller240

I'd talk with the guys over at www.HybridZ.org They are the ones who have used almost any engine that you could think of using in a Z. Lots of engineering type guys over there with lots of experience.

Hi Walter: Using that definition is fine if it works for you. BUt it doesn't fit with the definition used by the Collector Car industry. Having the "wrong" choke handle wil lose you points in a Stock class judging, or dollar if trying to sell the car to someone looking for a "restored" 197x Datsun 240Z. It wouldn't matter to me which choke handle was in my car (I do have the correct one, but I also have several "incorrect" ones as spares) just so long as the choke operates properly. Hi MOM: Your statement makes sense to me, but I wonder, How one could tell the date of manufacture in order to make a determination? For most parts, if the appearance is correct for the model year there would be no way of determining mfg. date. Few parts have the production date stamped or otherwise coded onto them.

You can routinely find new Aluminum (Steel lined) Drums on eBay for around $70 each (gotta new pair stashed in my Parts Bin). I would not use 'All Steel" drums on my car. The Finned Aluminum disipates heat quicker than the all steel drums. Unless you are running a "Mega Horsepower" motor, I'd stick with what Datsun / Nissan decided was appropriate for the car. While it's very true that 80% of your stopping power comes from the Front brakes, the rears are the "weaker link" (Drums vs Disc) and are usually the first end to overheat when the car is being really hustled through it's paces, which is why I want mine to disipate heat as quickly as possible.

Glad it all worked out. Do you have a picture of the damper as returned by the shop? Considering the damagethat can be done if the pulley comes apart, and the cost of acquiring another 35 year old one from a salvage yard, I think that the $69.95 price is a bargain and I'm going to have my spare refurbished by them, and I'll swap it onto the rebuilt engine. Just so the information on this subject is all in one place, here are links to the previous 2 threads madkaw started on this subject. #1 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16090 #2 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16191 The follow up is great, but it's more helpful to others that follow if you update in the original thread. Makes it much easier for them to find the whole story. EDIT: Link has been corrected

It is a 2 -piece set of strips there are 2 part numbers for each piece. From the Datsun / Nissan Parts Microfiche: 11124-R1000..............Reinforcement - Oil Pan (This piece goes around the rear of the engine, and along the passenger side of the engine. 11124-P6500..............Reinforcement - Oil Pan 11123-N3300.............Reinforcement with Heat S/Plate (This piece goes along the driver side of the engine near the Exhaust Downpipe) 11123-N4200.............Reinforcement with Heat S/Plate The Datsun / Nissan Mircofiche does not specify a change over date from the first part numbers to the second.

Hello John: "IF" the difference is caused by a differential change, you can replace the speedo gear with the correct one for the diff that is in your car now. This gear goes into the transmission where the speedo cable connects. This has been discussed many times on this forum, so a "SEARCH" using "Speedo gear" I come up with http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=62079 and within those results I found the following that may be of interest to you: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6997&highlight=Speedo+gears http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1978 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1957

In the US (at least) there was originally a small thermo-controlled valve at the rear of the manifold that shut off water flow at a predetermined water temp. Water was intended to flow ( and heat the manifold) only until the engine got warm.

Not sure I understand what you mean. Your odometer doesn't have to work. The GPS will track your movements all on it's own without an odometer. The 30 year rule is GONE in the CA. It was previously set up that there was a rolling 30 year period where Smog checks were required, thus in 2010, a 1980 model car would no longer need to pass a Smog Check Now the way it works is that cars newer that 1975 model year will be required to get a Smog Check, and it will stay capped at 1975 model year cars.

On SPIKE TV 2005 Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Special Next Show Time: Saturday February 19, 4:00 PM (ET/PT)

The search engine is your friend. Use "Fuel Pump cutoff" and voila' http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?searchid=61685

Use search function, "adjust valves" http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8225&highlight=adjust+valves You'll find in Post 2

Our member waynekarnes tells me that the vehicles he drives for work are already fitted with tracking by GPS. They know where and when you have coffeebreaks, and any deviation from where you should be driving. :mad" Big Brother is here!

Couldn't it just record and transmit data to any number of fixed location receiving stations without a powerful computer in your car? Heck, look at all the crap they stuff into a cell phone sized package now days. As for requiring you to purchase it, all they have to do is jack up the registration fees to cover the cost, and require the installationm of the unit when you get a smog check.

If anyone thinks that either RED OR BLUE elected officials are immune to voting with their heads up their asses (or their hand in someone's pocket) then "he/she" is part of the problem that faces this country.

The sad thing is alot of people won't understand the loss of freedom involved in a GPS base system of taxation that tracks your movements. I encounter people everyday that think the losses of freedom from the Anti-Terrorism laws passed since 9/11 are "worth it for the added safety we have now". :stupid: No doubt these are the same morons who flunked Civics and currently have their heads firmly buried in the sand.

I hear ya, but that seems to be the excuse they are trying to use. I seriously doubt it will fly this time, but like you say, they may be starting to soften us up for an eventual implementation of something like this.

Yeah, and he didin't mention center caps / lug nuts being included or not either.

Also, It sounds like you are addressing the critical systems and making things right straight away, instead of waiting for something to go wrong. Excellent. Hope you get it all together in time for the Fest. Enjoy!

We do have a red governor. Bet that POS would sign the bill putting it into effect. He already f**ked us on the rolling 30 year smog test requirement.

With a 17 yr old in charge of beer, god knows what he'll bring back for us to drink. Maybe one of his neighbors can supply some "shine" for the party???

I'mm just asking.....................aren't those ridges in the trans case meant to provide structural rigidity or strength? Do you plan on crawling under the car on a frequent basis to clean things like the trans case and steering rack, diff, etc?

Here is a set of TWO that recently went for $105.00 on eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7951179647&category=43954

Don't think that would work..........all of the parking is already filled with parts cars.

Will, are you building a trailer queen or a car to be driven? In my daily driver, I painted with Rustoleum (forget the name, some silver lookin color) I thought about a clear coat after that, but in the end didn't follow through.

California does that for commercial vehicles