Bambikiller240

I'd examine the flexible hose from the metal line to the slave, and replace it too unless you are POSITIVE that it is not leaking air.

Your service manual and this link should help you get started on learning what you need to know http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1803105&uid=786489

Grab it, Zeke72. There are no new 240Z tanks (haven't been for years)

If you have the original Diff mounting, I think that you will need a later style moustache bar also. see attachment

Look in the Technical Articles Forum http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16310

Oil. It's common for a bit of oil to collect there over time, especially if you coat new spark plug threads with oil like you should, when changing them. Also water, dirt, etc. Unless ther is TONS of oil there, Clean it off and watch thee ngine over the next few days/weeks.

Isn't there a couple of bolts at the bottom that secure the bell housing to the metal plate between the engine and trans? On mine there is. Manpower. Wiggle it back and forth, twist side to side.

Speaking of NUTS! It's a completely UNSAFE way to work on a car. Might as well skip the jackstands as well!! :stupid: :stupid: :stupid:

I use the one on my 72 240Z a lot. Can't see the heater controls without it. So far, haven't had a single problem with it either. Snagged a spare lens out of the Pick N Pull just in case, but so far I haven't needed it. Just be careful with it, and don't bang on it.

BINGO!!!!! No, wait! If I bill out my time putzing around with it at $2.00 per hour it would be cheaper the other way and I'd save a nickel.

snail trail from Nixon's testicles? Impossible, (like his morals) rumor has it that they weren't functional.

Then why ask the above question!?

Boy, you've missed a lot. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14712&highlight=images :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth

You'll need a spring compressor to dis-assemble the strut/spring assembly. It is not a terribly difficult job for someone with experience, but if you haven't worked on a car in 20 years, it will probably take much longer than if you had worked on cars more recently. If you tackle the job, I'd suggest that having a Haynes, or other shop manual for your car available would make life easier for you.

No way to answer that question without knowing how competent you are in working on cars, what tools you have, what you consider a pain in the azz.

How bumpy was that road you were on when the lights went out? How fast were you going!? In addition to bad motor mounts being a cause, it could be caused by the fan clutch failing, or the water pump failing, or radiator not mounted securely

Eeeeewwww!!!!!!!!!!! :sick: :sick:

Well, I paid $250 USD about 4 years ago for a 3 row recore on my car. Radiator work was warrenteed for 2 years by the shop. It is still in excellent shape. OH, Aluminum radiators have horizontal tubes, rather than vertical tubes. Nothing wrong with that, but they are quite different from OEM.

Not usually. The one I saw a while back for "$200 something US dollars" also required a mounting kit as well. Then different hoses were required (or at least ONE different hose)

The best local radiator shop in your area. (not necessarily the biggest, but the BEST) Depending on what happened, they could repair or recore your radiator. You can buy radiators over the internet, but the ones I've seen have all been of inferior quality. Usually your local shop will warrentee whatever work they do for you. They are close by if needed. The internet seller may do this also, but you'll be fussing around shipping bad parts back to them and waiting for a replacement part. JMO

Is the motor operating at all, or trying to operate? Or is it simply DEAD? There are several things that could cause the wipers to not function: 1. Mechanical issues with the Wiper Pivots (seized), Operating Rods (disconnected or broken) 2. Lack of power to the motor (switch on the steering collumn), wiring damaged, fuse 3. Defective motor (least likely IMO) EScanlon has posted some good info on rebuilding the Wiper Pivots amd Operating rods. Try a search for these threads. Using Enriques info, I was able to rebuild the mechanical part of my Wiper System last summer. I started to prepare a very detailed, illustrated Tech Article on the project, but after it was about 2/3 complete, changes to the website rendered most of my work un-usable here. Maybe someday I'll find an alternate place to publish it, and will regain interest in completing the article.

WOW, Spoken like a true Senior Citizen!

50 Series is HIGH profile?? What is a LOW profile size?

Think you're gonna be pleased with what these sell for. Wish that everything sitting in my garage for 35 years was so valuable!

In the strictest sense of the word, they would not restorations, they would be modifications. Now on a early Zcar, someone MAY be able to hide the deception (since the color info is not coded into the VIN) if the work was done carefully enough, but it would still be what it is. The wrong color for a restoration of that specific car. I'm done.