Bambikiller240

That makes sense to me.

Not sure it's necessary to replace the Driverside pan (judging from looking at the pictures, anyway), but then again if you're going for a restoration, and intend to keep and drive the car for a long time......structural repairs are probably one of the best places to invest your money, time, and effort.

There is plenty of "too thin" metal surrounding those holes. Too much for my car to have, and IMO too much for a "restoration". The floor pans tie the transmission tunnel to the rocker panels and give that part of the chassis a good portion of it's strength, and rigidity. The early cars (like ours) were pretty light-weight and not as strong as the later 240/260Z's. BTW, POR is good, and when used with their Power Mesh fabric (really just fibreglass mat) it is good for repairing PIN holes in floorpans, and it will protect "structurally sound metal from further rust, but I don't consider it to be appropriate for repairs of the magnitude needed on the passenger side photo's you posted. Just my opinion.

I simply put a clear hose on the speed bleeder, put the hose in a tall bottle. Loosen the speed bleeder, slide on my creeper over to the open drivers door and reach in with my hand to pump the brake pedal while looking under the car at the bottle. When I don't see bubbles, I slide back to the bottle, tighten the speed bleeder and move to the next corner of the car. I never get in the car, I just reach in with my hand. Actually, proper brakes when driving on the street should be at least as important, given the liability issues added to the issue of your (and any passengers) safety.

POR the swiss cheese (passenger-side) floor pan??? Not sure that is a good idea given the pictures of it.

Ah Ha, I read it wrong. Still glad there isn"t anythng ZX about Darius car. BTW, there doesn't seem to be any mention of his car or video's of it on the Darius website anymore. Too bad.

It probably was Darius that he's asking about, but Darius had a 280Z with the supercharged LT1 (I think it was an LT1) There wasn't anything ZX about it. (Thank GOD!)

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/news/archive/2005/01/05/sports1123EST0348.DTL

That is SO not true. Use the Jags That Run method of installing a SBC and you'll end up with almost perfect weight distribution. Talk to the folks a www.hybridz.org

Well, I have actually HAD them on my car for 4 years now and mine have worked and still work just fine. Don't beleive everything you "hear". I, too can bleed my brakes in less than 15 minutes. Now, nobody get all huffy and think I'm pointing a finger at anyone specific, but......... The only problems I have ever heard are from HAM FISTED mechanics who overtighten them and snap them off. But if the mechanic has common sense enough to realize they are BRASS and uses due care to not overtighten them , they work great. FWIW, I have "heard" that Power Bleeders don't always fit every application properly.

Got any websites, addresses, phone numbers for these places?

I tried to send him an "F... YOU" reply, but it just bounced back.

I received the below email today. The "PayPal" link in the email actually sends you to http://rd.yahoo.com/computer/ghost/orange/stetch/hockey/maple/real/lincoln/matthew/sir/stand/eleven/eleven/raiders/*HtTp://members.aol.com/trawets1/jamie/p.txt?raiders , NOT to PAYPAL. Note: The link copied below actually does send you to the real PayPal site. Just wanted to warn you all about this clown. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- From:aria871133@optonline.net <aria871133@optonline.net> I am really sorry to bother you, but I was buying something off of the internet and I accidently sent my money to you. I wasn't aware of this until the seller told me he hasn't recieved my money yet then I checked to see what I did wrong and I had sent it to your email address. Anyways if you could please login to www.paypal.com and send back the money I had sent you I would really appreciate it. Well im so sorry for this mis-understanding and thanks for you time.

Actually this is the 4th time in 3 years. Talk about the same old song! :sick: :sick:

Sounds like your Wiper Motor (or it's wiring) went up in flames. Should have brought some marshmallows with you. (Chris drove the car for years without any problems, How come all this drama is happening on your watch?)

Great News! Thanks for posting that info. Now all I need is the $$$$ to buy them.

That hasn't been reported in any of the F1 websites that I follow. Seriously Doubt It.

Replace bleed nipples with Speed Bleeders http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9046&highlight=Speed+Bleeders http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Yeah, I used laquer thinner and a s/s brush, but the crud took a fair amount of effort to remove. If you take it to a shop to be dipped, make sure they understand that the Valve Cover is aluminum. Some hot tank solutions will EAT aluminum.

You won't find much in the way of Z parts places in the Bay Area (except for Eric and Rod). Very occasionally will a Pick N Pull yard have a 240Z that hasn't been stripped of most useful parts. Scott Performance 2555 Lafayette St # 104, Santa Clara, CA 95050 Phone: (408) 988-2233 and Dando's in Fleamont http://www.dandos.com/ are two repair shops that work on Z's, I think there is one in Richmond called Z Doctor also.

I'm too lazy. "DeOxiT 100" cleaned up my Wiper Motor connector electrical terminals quickly and easily to bright and shiney metal. When I first looked at them, they appeared so filthy and corroded that I feared they would fall apart in my hands. I am pleased with how it works. It won't add metal back, but it removes the corrosion very well, and seems to protect the connectors from corroding again.

depends on many variables....like HP (how you build/manage the engine), on weight of vehicle(how far you strip the car), and gearing(which trans and diff you choose). I can't help you with specifics. You might find more (and probably better) answers at www.hybridz.org

If that is all you want, then you could get away with a 2.8L ZXT engine/trans swap, and a coil-over suspension without mucking around with more complicated (and expensive) transplants. You won't get sub 12 sec time slips, but you'll still surprise most people.

For an engine or the whole package? you said you wanted handling also. Sub 12 sec 1/4 mi and superior road handling could take a lot of $$$$ Also, depends on where you are located, and what skills you have. You can't just throw money at the car.

McLaren F1