Bambikiller240

Most likely a bad T/S Switch then. You can try to disassemble and clean it, but usually it won't stay "fixed". New ones (if still available) are not cheap.

"Seem" OK? What does that mean? Have you moved the one that doesn't light to another location and confirmed that it CAN light? You can't judge by looks. Other possible causes for a "functional" bulb not "functioning" can be corrosion, bad or missing grounds, broken wires, or bad switch.

Bulb (Ten Charecters)

According to the ZTherapy website, they no longer sell grose jets. I believe that it is quite difficult to find them anywhere, now days.

I would be concerned about the condition of the engine and the transmission on a car that had been autocrossed. (transmission more than engine, actually) Does it shift smooth through ALL gears? Any grinding (even the least little bit) as you shift? Have the car checked out thoroughly as previously stated for your protection.

A Zerk acts like a grease fitting: A device that seals in and allows the addition of more grease, or some other type of lubricant, to cushion two moving parts, allow them to move freely, and prevent them from wearing each other away. Found on ball joints, steering knuckles, tie-rod ends. Also called "zerk fitting."

This issue is too simple to keep wanking on about. Carefully read the Pertronix instructions, and observe the installation diagrams The Pertronix Ignitor Ignition System doesn't care at all if there is a Ballast resistor in the car or not. Period. If your COIL requires one, leave it in the car. Pull the 12V (RED wire of the Ignitor) from the input side of the Ballast, so it gets the full voltage. If your COIL DOES NOT require a Ballast, you must either short across the Ballast, or remove it and connect the wires (formerly at each end) TOGETHER. It is quite simple.

http://online.wsj.com/public/resources/documents/info-invcar04.html?printVersion=true

http://www.zcca.org/

Early Z's (71-72) that I have seen had the plastic reservior from the factory (I haven't owned a 70) The 73 240Z that I owned had a zerk fitting in place of this reservoir. (It may have been installed by a dealer, I don't know) Those reservoirs were/are easily damaged and have been NLA from Nissan for quite some time.

Specific Part Number Spark Plugs will be used in various engines that may or may not require the same "gap". Considering the cheapness of a Spark Plug Gap Gauge Set, and the little time it takes to set the Plugs to what Nissan specifies for the Z engine, I always set the gap on my new spark plugs. Why? Because then I KNOW they are set right.

There are a lot in Nor Cal, but So Cal appears to have many more. Judging by turn out at Z events. FWIW, when searching for a classic car you are miles and $$$$ a head if you search for a car in better condition, rather than in a lower price range. Of course if all you are looking for is transportation.................... Get the best car you can afford, but be aware that cheaper cars will need more attention in a variety of ways.

The method of rust removal doesn't much matter. It's just important to remove it, and protect the area from further rust. Since you live in So Cal, you won't have a problem with finding a Z, so just look for the best exdample you can afford. Take your time and find one with as little rust as possible. You'll be miles and dollars ahead. My $.02

duplicate post

Basically correct. It certainly could come from the freeze plug at the back of the block (inside the bell housing). I am not discounting that at all. However, he does not seem very familiar with automobiles (at least this one), since his inquiry was about "coolant leaking from the tranny". I am not quite prepared to accept that he's examined all the right places where an anti-freeze leak "could" come from. His pictures don't show anything but the very bottom of the bell housing and oil pan, so, given the PITA it is to pull the trans just to look at the freeze plug; I suggested checking everywhere else first. A visual inspection may (or may not) save him some unnecessary work, and it costs little in time and zero in materials. On my my car the coolant seeped from the very rear of the engine at the headgasket. As long as the engine was hot, the coolant just evaporated away. As the engine cooled it would puddle on the edge of the block, then run off onto lower parts of the car, and that is where I first noticed the leakage. The coolant cooled enough on it's journey to the bottom of the engine/trans that it was much more visable (stayed there in a liquid state) than at the source of the leak where it evaporated.

Green is anti-freeze. You will need to CAREFULLY examine the entire rear part of the engine, preferably while the engine is warm and cooling sytem has pressure built up (but not necessarily with the engine running). It is the engine cooling system that is leaking somewhere. It could be (just to name a few things): a heater hose the metal pipe that goes around behind the engine to provide Intake/carb coolant. a Freeze plug (may not be one of the ones visable without removing the trans) a head gasket leak (seep) at rear of engine Take your time, be thorough and you should be able to find the source.

Ah, I see. Your talking about parts that are on the underside (inside the quarter panel, not on the outside. I was thinking that you were talking about something that was under the metal ring that the gas cap secures to (i.e. on the outside of the vehicle) That picture appears to be the filler hose used from 10/72 production date. My earlier cars filler tubes are slightly different.

Seal? My Z cars have only had the rubber gas flap and the tube itself. Do you have a picture of the seal you are refering toi, or a part number? Now I'm curious.

It is NOT a Factory Service Manual (FSM) Actually, I have never heard of this one, so I cannot tell you if it is worth anything. If the price stays low, it probably wouldn't hurt to pick it up, but I'd still suggest the real deal original FSM and a Haynes or Clymers manual.

How often do you feel like going through this drama? The answer to that question will help you answer your question.

Are they smaller than 1024 X 768? JPEG's? File Size?

Same answer applies. Have it looked at by a body shop. There is no way to tell the condition of the metal around the holes and under the paint in that picture.

Holes? I thought you said they were scratches. Big difference. It will depend on the condition of the metal. "Holes" can be welded closed IF the metal surrounding the "hole" is solid. If it is rusted, the rust must be cut out and replaced to effect a repair.