Bambikiller240

If they are scratches and the metal underneath is solid, just have the panel repaired and repainted. Over the internet it is hard to determine the true condition of the metal, so it might be better to have it looked at by a body shop. Most of them will give you a free estimate and they will be in a better position to really know the condition of the metal.

Is that rust bubbles or scratches?

Hi Bryan. Welcome!

I am told that Motorcycle shops carry 20 wt "fork oil". You can also order 20 wt oil in small (very small) bottles from MSA. Probably much cheaper at the M.C. shop than at MSA.

See link in post #6

http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&q=Single+Malt+Scotch The link above seems to show sites with information on different Scotches and might be helpful

The air must be needed for something, or they wouldn't go to all the bother to cram so much of it in there.

My suggestion is to start with examinig the easiest parts to replace (and the most likely to cause the problem) in this case, that would be the Front Diff mount, then the U-Joints, then the Moustache Bar bushings. Examine parts first, then replace. No use throwing parts at a problem, find the cause, then replace.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15698&highlight=EAST

I get a blank page using the link. Can't figure out what's wrong. EDIT: Their website is now visable. Interesting insight into this Kimble guy.

Not all of the routes go through China, so whether China does or doesn't have paved roads built well enough for 200 mph means very little as to whether the event is real or not. I doubt anyone of us here is going to really know if it is real or not until the event is history (one way or the other). It's not the sort of event that can be "announced" or allowed to become public knowledge, for obvious reasons.

Where do you think the rust in your filter is coming from? Disneyland? The stumbling at 3500 rpm could be due to lack of fuel flow to feed the engines requirements beyond 3500 rpm (faster it revs the more fuel it needs, duh) Could be the carbs are tuned really shitty, but the rust you see in the filter isn't going to go away if all you do is change filters and tune carbs. It will continue to grow, continue to flake off, and the problems it causes will continue to grow, until one day your car wil not run at all. If you ignore the rust particles that are trying to tell you something, all you are doing is postponing the repair, and increasing the cost of the repair.

So, couldn't "butchered" wiring cause something like this to occur? Where the filiment in the bulb would act like the fuse? The one example that comes to mind is the S/S Clutch hose on blitzcraig's car that kept melting and burning due to grounding issues.

Mike: Then why do fuses blow when excess amperage flows through them? I inderstand that the bulb all by itself won't draw more amps, but if something else (for instance a Fan) were to be powered through the circuit that lights the bulb, couldn't the amp draw from the fan try to pull enough current through the filiment to cause it to fail?

By butchering a wiring harness I mean modifying it (intentionally or unintentionally) so that more current (amps) flows through a cetain path than that path was designed to carry. Ever accidently short something out and some item in the circuit "pops". That's what I'm refering to. AFAIK, it's the amperage travelling through that will cook the bulbs. Just like Headlamps that draw more current than stock headlamps can cause the wiring to fail. The filiment will fail before the wiring in this case. I am certainly no expert on electrics, but I doubt that a 3W bulb cannot be made to fail by running excessive amperage through it.

If they are all blown, most likely cause is butchered wiring and resultant short.

Golly Gee, It sounds like the old RUST and CRAP in the tank and fuel lines issue that is so common on these cars. Where did I hear that mentioned before???? Oh, yeah here it is.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15674&page=1&pp=15 Maybe in Posts 2,4, & 8

License Plates can change any number of times for any number of reasons. Using the VIN is virtually the only way to "attempt" to trace vehicle ownership with any chance of success. If the vehicle registration crossed state lines, it can be very difficult to succeed, but Good Luck anyway.

Yeah, several of the proposed routes are implausible at best.

Filters beandip is referring to are inside the "banjo bolt fitting" that you mention.

Yes, Me too!

If Left one works and Right one doesn't, it almost has to be that the one not operating is disconnected somehow from the motor. The motor "drives" the Driverside (LEFT) wiper via the main Operating Rod, and a Slave Operating Rod "drives" the Passengerside (RIGHT) from the Driverside Pivot. I would bet the Slave Operating Rod is either missing or disconnected from the Driverside Pivot. To make any repair, you'll have to remove the system from the car. Virtually no parts are available from dealer, so whatever is broken or missing is going to need to be found at a JY, or the "parts car" you just got rid of.

This car was the first model that I ever assembled. Well, actually, my Dad did most of the real assembly. I mostly watched and learned & played with the glue. Thanks for mentioning the MG-TC. Brought back some good memories.

By "reverse", do you mean that you'll change rust back into solid steel? If you can do that, you'll be a billionaire. There are already several ways to "stop" rust.

If one can determine the font and size of print, a rubber stamp can easily be ordered, and shouldn't cost too much. For "non-OEM types" a Sharpie pen could work just fine. I wonder if Mike at Banzai might not have one (made variable like a date stamp) that can be used to stamp the labels he sells?