Bambikiller240

interesting info on that site. Copied to my Hard drive FFR.

I don't see how that is possible. Hopefully they removed the vent at the top of the diff (AND REPLACED IT) and filled from there, otherwise you most likely don't have enough oil in your diff. Sometimes you don't even get what you paid for. This seems to be an example of that.

On the surface, that would seem to eliminate "Appliance" or "Western" as the manufacturer. (pun intended)

If you were advised to do engine swap while naked, and smothered in strawberry jam would you do it?

Best bet is to clean the rims and look for markings cast or stamped into the wheel. Back in the day, most of the wheel manufacturers copied each other endlessly. Very difficult to accuarately identify a wheel from a picture.

I can't think of a reason to replace the bolts you'll run into doing an engine swap, unless you find them damaged or rusty beyond belief.

Wouldn't be a bit surprised if it isn't available.

...............unless you are of Japanese heritage.

Generally, you just drill the head of the existing pop rivet off of the stem (shank), and the shank falls out from the back side of the dash. You do want to use a drill bit that is just barely larger than the diameter of the stem (shank). The existing pop rivet is metric sized, and you will have a hard time finding an exact replacement, but you can use a US standard measured pop rivet to replace it. You may need to resize the holes used to install the replacement pop rivet and VIN plate, but it's a fairly easy job. Just take your time and you'll be fine.

Wonder how much of it was delivered to the basement of the White House?

Boyd Coddington (builder of the Chezoom) probably would demand royalties from you. (He's such a pecker!)

.............and posting a video of the results on the internet so all of us can enjoy the "act".

In 240Z chassis many people seem to think that the RR is farthest from the MC, but if one takes a good hard look (and a tape measure for verification) they will note that the LR cylinder is actually further from the MC than the RR. They both share the same brake line down the trans tunnel and the "T" block is on the passenger (RR) side of the tunnel, the line to the LR must cross back over the tunnel and on to the LR WC. The line from the "T" to the RR WC does not have to travel the extra distance of the width of the tunnel. In short, the length of the line from the "T" to RR is shorter than the length of the line from the "T" to the LR.

95%+ of the time bench bleeding is NOT necessary. Although I am aware of the possibility of a bench bleed being needed, I have almost always been able to simply bleed the the MC after installation, and then proceed to the RWC's and Calipers. Bench bleeding is not a mandatory thing. It really isn't any different than (doing a full and proper) bleeding with the MC installed, just more of a PITA, IMO

Try a search using some combination of the terms Early E88, Late E88 There should be several threads with attached pictures of the two combustion chamber shapes.

In any event it's a cool article to read. Thanks.

Err, that would depend on "WHICH" E88 head you have. Ther are at least 2 versions, each with very different combustion chamber sizes and shapes.

Dudes, BRAKES not beaks or breaks :lick:

Just say no to Sherm

I agree. I haven't seen any actual, factual numbers EVER to support claims of increased HP over the stock air cleaner w/ a K & N. "Seat o' the pants" statements just don't prove anything. The crew chief for the 2001 & 2002 ITS National Champion (in a Z car) did back to back dyno runs with various air filter assemblies, and reported no gains over the stock set up with K&N's. His word and the word of Scott Bruning (original owner of ZTherapy) are plenty good enough for me. Until I see Dyno charts that prove the claims otherwise, it's all Mexican food in those "seat o' the pants".

Z Car Microfiche CD only mentions coolant overflow tank on 280Z production beginning 8/75 which would be around the approximate date production began on the 76 model year HLS30-U. PN listed is #21510-N4200 There are other parts & numbers listed (bracket, cap, hose, straps, mounting hardware, etc) It could be possible that the previous owner of my car added one, it would be the first thing I've noted that wasn't OEM on the car. He only owned it for about a year before I bought it from him and he wasn't mechanically inclined at all.

With K & N filters you don't replace them, you clean them, re-apply oil, and reuse. K & N makes a great filter for the stock air cleaner can. Why start butchering OEM stock parts when there is no need?

Float bowl valves bad? (not shutting off when bowl is full?)

They sell them blank, it's up to you to replicate the specific data for your car. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/decals.html Scroll to the bottom

looks way better in black.