Bambikiller240

Sorry Enrique, If the statement "The value of that car is what that car will bring at the time of sale WHERE it gets sold." is true, then the sale price of this one will do NOTHING for the valuation of your car (3000 miles west)

I hope that SPEED will air the JGTC races at a reasonable time slot. This year they have put the Aussie V8 series on in the mid mornings (weekdays) and never show them in the evening. Make it almost impossible for many people to see the races. The JGTC reminds me of the glory days of IMSA.

Good work, Stephen!! Pic on the Left is "A" On the Right is "B"

Maybe I am not knowledgable about East Coast valuations (as you can see) Maybe we are spoiled out here, as you say. I do agree regarding starting high and come down as needed. (makes sense) Good Luck to you Dave.

The pictures on your site do not show a "minimally rusty" car. But hey, Good Luck in your attempt to sell it. Let us know what you get for it. Of course some cars in CA have rust. just as "some" on the East Coast don't have rust. It is your valuation of the car that I question.

sahunt66: If your car still has the original transmission, it is the "A" type. I don't know of any diagrams on-line, but the difference is well documented in every service manual (factory, Haynes, Chilton, Clymers, etc) that I have ever seen. FWIW, Actually the "B" trans DID use the clutch slave cylinder tht required adjustment until the 1973 model year (production from 9/72)

On the other hand, reinventing the wheel is seldom worth the time, effort, and expense.

A rusty car that hasn't run in 11 years would NEVER command $1450 in CA, but I love the attempt to justify your price. (at least in my neighborhood)

Sounds kind of risky. Financially, and from a quality standpoint.

Did you try a search engine using the term pdkfabrication.com ? I did. This is what came up........http://www.pdkfabrication.bravepages.com/

Regarding your inquiry about the suspension. You mention "next is suspension. what should i change to give it a smoother ride and increase preformance. I know I will be lowering the car an 1" or more. Increasing performane AND a smoother ride are generally at cross purposes. Performance will require stiffer struts, springs, and bushings; which will make a "smoother ride" almost impossible. For performance, you can go with Polyurethane bushings in place of the stock rubber bushings. Tokico and Suspension Techniques make performance struts and springs. Larger Anti-Sway bars will also increase performance. If you want a smoother ride, replace the worn stock bushings with new OEM rubber bushings. Gabriel and KYB make struts that are decent if you aren't needing a lot of performance. Some people like the Eibach "progressive rate" springs. They are initially soft, but get stiffer the harder you push the car. Many people who race their cars don't like these because the transition between soft and stiff can be somewhat annoying to deal with in a racing situation. You might consider investing in a book called "How to Hot Rod and Race Your Datsun". http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=70-1056 It will give you a lot of information that will be of help to you and answer many questions you will have as you improve your Z.

Good thing I bought 2 sets of Grose Jets along with my ZT carbs from Scott Bruning. My GF thought I was nuts to buy 2 extra sets since the carbs came with a set installed. Just sold one set on eBay a few months ago. My last "spare" set isn't for sale.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38335 If you keep an eye on the item over time, it is often sold for less than the price listed on the website

Ten Charecters

I believe theya re also meant to space the carbs away & insulate the carbs from direct transfer of engine heat. I'm not familiar with all of Delrin's properties, but if it can stand the heat near the engine, I think it would work fine. One question though, Why do you have to make them, aren't they still available for SU's?

I'm not sure what you mean by "Radius arm". Is that the same as Tension/Compression Rods? Any pictures? I have never noticed a "bend" in any of the T/C rods of the Z cars that I've owned.

Harbor Freight sells a kit of (basically) "C" Clamps and spacers, etc for U-Joint removal. Price is not very high, and IMO it beats the snot out of bashing things around with a hammer. PS I have used the hammer method and it definitely does work, but there is lots of opportunity to bugger things up.

Yeah, the principal is to transfer someone's money into someone else's pocket. Anything else that happens is purely coincidental.

Fantasy, pure and simple.

On my 72 I had problems with the rear T/S lights (first the left, then both) not blinking. Later the LF light stopped blinking also. I bought a T/S Switch fromMSA & paid around $120 for it. Solved all my problems.

Most likely a bad T/S Switch then. You can try to disassemble and clean it, but usually it won't stay "fixed". New ones (if still available) are not cheap.

"Seem" OK? What does that mean? Have you moved the one that doesn't light to another location and confirmed that it CAN light? You can't judge by looks. Other possible causes for a "functional" bulb not "functioning" can be corrosion, bad or missing grounds, broken wires, or bad switch.